I’m trying to finish up my Tein and Energy install, but I’ve hit a snag on the front suspension. I’ve got two different concerns.
How the fuc’k do you get the radius rods to line up with their holes on the LCA? I got the driver side done, but the pass. side is a total bitch. One bolt will thread, and the other won’t even get close. Any tips.
Ball joints suck. O.K., I jacked up one thread on the drive side lower ball joint, but it wasn’t that bad, so I threaded the castle nut on and took an impact gun to it to fix it. Well, the threads got fixed, but the ball joint also spun in the socket for quite a while before the threads cleaned themselves up. Is this a bad sign? Should they not do that? Also, should the cotter pin be slightly loose in the ball joint hole. It won’t go through it in either direction, but is has a bit of a wiggle to it. What’s the torque value on those castle nuts?
I’m trying not to get dead when I drive my car again, so any help is greatly appreciated.
i am having the same problem you explained in #2… i have a impact gun at my disposal, but i would have to drive to my dad’s house to use it… i have the castle nut on there most of the way, but i caught a snag in the threads where the ball joint will just spin… i talked to my dad about it and he didn’t think the impact gun would work, he thought it would just spin the ball joint… it worked ok for you? also do you think it would be ok driving it (maybe 3-5 miles) to my dads to use the impact gun? i will be taking back roads very slow of course and if not what can i do to get the nut all the way on?
in response to #1:
i haven’t put the radius rod back on, but did you try to bolt it to the LCA before you bolted it into the front of the car? or maybe try jacking up the rotor some? i’ll let you know how i get it back on when i try…
I got my car back together with no problems after that. I eventually figured that bolting the radius rods to the the control arm was an easier method. I haven’t had any problems with anything thus far.
You said that you couldn’t get the ball joint to seat all the way. DO NOT drive with them like that. The ball joints’ tapered base needs to be fully seated in the control arm, the castle nut torqued with a cotter pin securing the whole deal.
It would be very unwise to drive the car w/o having the ball joint seated fully. The threads of the ball joint don’t support the weight of the car, the tapered portion in the control arm does. Using an impact gun long enough will eventually cause the castle nut to fix the threads. Bring the gun to the car and you’ll be set.
that’s what i was thinking… so it doesn’t hurt the ball joint to be spun around with the impact wrench? that’s my main worry… dont want to have gone through all this to have to take it to a shop to get a new ball joint pressed in in the near future
i had the EXACT SAME PROBLEM! also used an impact wrench (am i sensing a pattern???) yeah, but after i got it on, it was fine. . . it was just SUCH A PAIN IN THE ASS!!! Everything was fine up until that part. . . ugh. … but yeah. . its a paint in the ass aint it? haha .