wassup matman!!! i build motors right now. in fact i just got done putting on a B16 head i built with ferrea valvetrain on a B20 with weisco pistons. just email me so we can talk about what you want to achieve and how we can make it happen. ill be more than happy to give you some great prices. any body else interested in getting quality work done with out the expensive shop prices just email me with questions.
“An open mind is more useful than an open mouth.”
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Got a question. I’m shooting for LS/VTEC turbo. Right now I’m just running the stock B18 while I save my money. I’d like to go ahead and start getting the turbo together and I’m toying with the idea of boosting my LS. Thing is I don’t want to waste money on turbo parts that won’t change over to my LS/VTEC once I get the head. The only part I can think of that would be directly affected would be the exhaust manifold. Since exhaust manifolds all fit the bolt holes on B series engines then if I got a turbo exhaust manifold for the LS then when I get a VTEC head (probably GSR head) could I still use all the turbo parts from the turbo LS? Or if this is a ridiculous idea just give me some feedback.
All b-series exhaust headers have the exact same bolt pattern.
If you buy the piping for the LS engine, I’d say you might need to get the skunk2 I.M. if u did the gsr head because the gsr I.M. places the throttle body in a different spot. other than that, everything will be the same.
Thanks for the info. With that said, would it be a good idea to go ahead and boost the LS or should I just wait and find a GSR head? I guess I’m just wanting to go ahead and start fooling with my turbo setup.
Quick question here, dont mean to hi-jack your thread, but… My gurlfriend has a AUTOMATIC :sad: 90 Integra GS… and we were thinkin about puttin a B16 VTEC head on it… will I notice a difference with it shifting at such a short RPM? the VTEC SHOULD kick in by then, I’m assuming… and then I wouldnt really have anything to worry about then about over revving and such, would I ?
man hahaha i hate to say it but ive seen one done. you will feel vtec if forsure but it will only be until the stock redline, you still need to get a vtec controller to get the vtec activated, if you were planning on getting a manual swap later then cool, but other wise it would be an expensive mod that wont see its full potential.
“An open mind is more useful than an open mouth.”
POWERLINE
EFI 101 certified
lol, so, I NEED a Vtec controller? or it is recommended I get one for it, so it will activate faster??? will it make a little difference tho? like if I can get the head and intake for cheap, should I go for it ?
Ok everyone on this thread is concerned about going to 8000. I’m not saying this is bad. But why not just stay below that, and keep your engine? Let’s say you totally build up an LS/VTEC, with a 7000-7500 limit, and just set your VTEC controller to 5000 or something like that. Would this be reliable? I’m not trying to argue with people, just seeing if this would work?
Acurazor
really i just take it up there when i need to, other than that its just regular driving. if you are conservative with your motor it will last, if you have a heavy foot then i feel sorry for you. :bang:
“An open mind is more useful than an open mouth.”
POWERLINE
EFI 101 certified
The whole point of having an LS/VTEC is to have an 1834cc VTEC motor. This way you have the little torquier LS block, with the high revving head. Since Honda motors are small they need to rev high to make power. If you built an LS/VTEC and only rev it up to say 7K rpm, it defeats the purpose of doing it. Since the B18C1 has 1797cc’s (I may be off by a couple), you gain more that 30cc’s by going LS/VTEC. It may not sound like much, but every little bit counts. It may be that some people just slap a head on a stock block, and it lasts a long time, but the chances of this happening are very slim. It is better to build the thing right the first time, especially if it’s your daily driver. This will give you peace of mind.
LOL…
I know the purpose of LS/Vtec. I’m just saying, everyone gets crank chatter at around 8000. The crank was not intended for that high of an RPM. So all I’m saying is, If I were to build up an lsvtec motor, and only rev to 7500, I’d still have vtec, still have the extra tourque, and I think my crank will be safe, but not sure. Ok in other words, what is the LS crank rpm limit?
ive never gotten crank chatter. the b-series bottom end is balanced pretty good for coming out of the factory, but taking the rpm to 7k and playing it safe is okay,you wont be able to feel the full potential if you make 7k your red line. the only thing different on the ls cranks are that the oil holes are not chamfered(as big) as the vtec ones. but they still get enough oiling to the bearings anyways, i had a ls block for 3years that took nitrous and commuted 100 miles a day. i ended up selling that block(intact)to a friend after getting the b20. when we opened it up to rebuild it we found the reason it stayed together that long was because the tolerances were all close like all rod bearings were green and all main bearings were yellow. the bearings were all the same spec from each other and still in very good condition. so dont doubt the b18a. i wish i kept that block for my other car :sad:
“An open mind is more useful than an open mouth.”
POWERLINE
EFI 101 certified www.EFI101.com
well im working on my ls/vtec setup as of now and now that i have read some of ur guys’s thought. im setting mines up with the b16 head and the pr3 pistons, now my question is would it be a good idea to use the b16 crank as well?
My question is, if i use the block of my stock b18, can i use all the internals from the b16. The b16 only has 9k miles on it. it runs very well but i as well want more power. Or will it be easier to throw in a turbo and change the compression to run higher boost? Any suggestions?