Ok let’s try this one more time.
#1) you show me in your next post some proof of an h series head outflowing a p72 or pr3 head. a flow graph or something of that nature.
#2) coming with forged pistons from the factory doesn’t mean squat. the composition of the pistons is why custom pistons must be used with frm sleeves. FRM sleeves are fiber reinforced metal. Its carbon fiber/aluminum alloy/and aluminum oxide. You tell me how in the world you bore that, and how it iwll be stronger and hold boost better than a full ductile iron sleeves used in the other engines. it’s not. you can’t just walk into honda and buy pistons off another honda dn throw them in and expect it to work. there are a few advantages to frm sleeves. they are the following: longevity in stock form, less need for honing during rebuild (most shops won’t touch them anyway b/c the risk of messing them up is too high. i know this b/c ive asked a few shops myself), they stay cooler longer. now lets read from honda.
Honda Service Bulletin:
SB618958 #18939
1990-2001 Prelude – Honing Fiber Reinforced Metal (FRM) cylinders 2000-01 S2000
All S2000 and 1990 and later VTEC and SI Preludes have Fiber-Reinforced Metal (FRM) cylinder liners. FRM honing is not required unless the cylinder has deep vertical scratches that run the length of the bore. Cylinders with light colored spots or flaking cannot be corrected by honing and must be replaced.
To hone FRM liners, perform the following:
· Use a rigid hone (not a ball hone) with GC-600-J or finer stones for nonferrous
metals. The honing pressure should be 200-300 kPa (2-3 kg-cm2, 29-43 psi).
· Use an oil type honing oil.
· Hone at 45-50 rpm to a 60 degree-crosshatch pattern.
· Do not stroke the hone more than 20 cycles.
· After honing, thoroughly clean the engine block of all metal particles by
washing with hot soapy water, then dry and oil them immediately. Never use
solvent; it will only redistribute the grit.
· Some light vertical scoring and scratching is acceptable if it isn’t deep enough
to catch your fingernail, and doesn’t run the full length of the bore. (rm,sn)
See the bolded part. Now explain to me smart guy, if light colored spots prevent frm sleeves from being honed, and honda is flat out telling you they have to be replaced, gives you the impression that you can bore them out and be safe? Hmmm? I would expect SOME boring coudl be done, but to such a small degree it wouldnt’ matter. (EDIT: more research has corrected me here. .020 of an inch is about as much as can be bored in some cases without cyl disruption. verified below). however you cannot use stock pistons and rings anymore as i said before. you have to use pistons speficially made to work with frm sleeves. keep in mind the frm liner is thin to begin with. it’s supposed to be. anythign you change you are taking a risk of thinning the lining up too much. in addition, as i said before, you destroy a cyl on a frm sleeved block, you either have to sleeve it or throw it away.
Not good enough. ok. here. read from some more experts.
http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/tech/htup_0907_honda_frm_liners/index.html
#3) show me some proof of a boosted b21 with that many miles on it. i’ve never seen anyone even use a b21 its’ the bastard child of the honda b series family. it’s no comparison to a c1 for example. you can throw 15 psi at a stock block properly tuned, rev over 8k, and drive it every day on pump gas for the rest of it’s life long as its properly maintained. you want to compare an h to a b use a proper and more common b.
#4) have you read anythign about exhaust systems and proper sizing to the engine size you’re using? no possible way a 3" exhaust is making more power than a 2.5" on a sub 2 liter engine like a b18c5. there is a reason that most off the shelf systems are around 60mm or less. Think about it. Here more experts with math to back it up. Every single book ever written by the experts and fathers of honda tuning all have a section in them stating proper exhaust sizing is importnat to making power and too big or too small an exhaust will hurt your overall powerband. it’s scripture. i own almost all of them. hit up a bookstore and peer through them.
Exhaust Basics
http://www.team-integra.net/sections/articles/showArticle.asp?ArticleID=47
Exhaust tech 1
http://www.team-integra.net/sections/articles/showArticle.asp?ArticleID=48
Exhaust tech 2
http://www.team-integra.net/sections/articles/showArticle.asp?ArticleID=355
#5) power is not affected by gearing only tq is? how do you figure? how do you think you get power. horsepower is directyl related to torque. force work and time. torque * rpms/5252. furthermore if you are agreeing with me that the gearing on a h sucks then why are you contesting what im saying here. the b series transmisions ahve better gearing and that will help take advantage of the h series and WHERE it makes power in it’s pwoerband. teh gear combinations optimize where you start making torque, and where you stop making power. this way you take advantage of every last point. horsepower rises more rapidly as engine speed increases. torque is still being made, but even when it stops the engin still makes power. why do you suppose that is? magic? you need more than a cam to make power up high. it’s a combination of many factors. power is an ability to do work over time, gearing will play a huge part here. .
#6) yes i do think a d is better than an h. ductile iron sleeves, good flow for its size, strong blocks, and better gearing. and the transmissions are very stout. hell yes i think ti’s better. you can build a d for 1/3 the price of an hswap, add boost and have a smile on your face. go hunting for a local d series guru near you and see hwat he has to say. you think b seires guys are die hards? we got nothing on a d series guru.
#7) dude use google for crying out loud. the 12 second mark is nothing new for built b seires blocks. what the hell does that do to help your argument anyway? a h in a crx or civic? power in a smaller lighter chassis of course will be fast. theres a local crx all motor in the mid 12s making 240ish whp. so what. that’s irrelevant to our discussion here. we can search all day and come up with all kinds of examples, but i guarantee that you’ll have a lot better luck finding b series builds. there are a lot more people racing with them.
I’ve posted all i care to on this subject. its off topic enough as it is.