where are your settings at right now? if it smokes a lot of black smoke, than that means it is getting too much fuel.
its whitish smoke. not black at all.
the settings right now, are between -50% around idle. then it moves up and when boost starts, it’s a lot closer to 0%. then at the top of the RPM, its about +30%
do you have a fmu and your stock injectors? if so, take your afc out and your 450’s or 550’s (whatever you have) and re-install your stock ones. hook up the fmu and see if it runs ok. i think the reason you are having issues is because the afc is fucked. if it still runs like shit, then i am clueless.
white smoke. that’s burning oil. do a compression test. you could have some effed rings.
white smoke is water burning, blue smoke is oil burning, black smoke is raw fuel burning in your exhaust. please don’t pass bad info on this site.
oil can be white or blue. guy. please don’t correct me if u don’t know that. i would still check your compression. or, somehow coolant could be leaking through somewhere. headgasket?
you don’t have resistors on your obd1. w/ the dsm’s you need to put resistors on them. 10 ohm 10 watt.
i dont have resistors, huh? i installed a resistor box from a 1989 civic in my car. thats in the turbo guide. i kinda think its the headgasket. its a new head gasket, but it wasnt torqued to the correct specs. it was torqued too much down.
ic ic. i didn’t know you had the resistors. my bad. i was just letting u know that w/obd1 u need to put the resistors in. good shit. yeah, it sounds like it could be the headgasket to me. passing coolant. either way…good luck to u.
well i took the turbo off and ran the motor today with no manifold and an open throttle body (just idle in my driveway), and it didnt smoke, so that means its somethin to do with the turbo or the tuning. when i ran it like that, i turned the afc all the way down to -50%
What settings should I use for X size injectors with X amount of boost?
This is one of the most misunderstood concepts about using the AFC hack. Lets examine each part to determine your correct settings. To begin, please read question 2-2 before continuing. Now that you understand a little bit about injector sizing with an AFC, we can talk about settings. If you decide to use something other than 450cc injectors, you may want to start with lower boost settings (at the wastegate) and build up from there, keeping the same fuel compensation settings in the AFC.
This will give you the upper limit for the current injector size.
As for obtaining those settings there are a couple of things to explain. Fuel flow rate difference.
This is the difference in flow based on the stock injector flow rate. For a Honda, 240cc injectors are stock. If you increase to 450cc injectors, your flow rate difference is a 46% increase. How do we figure that? Simple math: percent_of_difference = ((240 / new_injector_size) - 1) * 100
Second, an AFC does not control fuel injector pulse duration. This means we cannot compensate for injector latency in the fuel table for our larger injectors. Injector latency describes the scientific characteristic of how long it takes the injector to physically open. The larger the injector, the higher the latency. Since AFCs do not control the pulse duration directly, we compensate with a fixed percentage subtraction, otherwise, we would run lean in lower RPMs, even though our fuel flow rate has been adjusted based on the exact percent difference. The scale for common injector sizes used is 5% for 440-450cc, 4%, 390cc, 3% for 310cc… then subtract 1 percent per 500 RPM increase. This will give us are starting point. For a boosted application, running stoichiometric is dangerous because of the high volume of air. To “play it safe”, you want to run a bit on the stoich/rich side, so we increase fuel flow by 1% per 1000 rpms, trying not to top out a 5% overall increase. Why 5%? …because your fuel maps are still increasing in pulse duration. So you’re increasing pulse duration, and percentage
of flow rate at the same time. You’ll get rich, very quickly. If you have VTEC, enrich by 1% more over VTEC VTEC crossover.
So, lets apply everything we’ve learned, and come up with base settings for 450cc injectors.
- 240/450 = 0.53
- 0.53 - 1 = -0.46
- -0.46 * 100 = -46
So we have a 46% difference, we add our 5% for injector latency compensation, which leaves us with these settings:
1000 - 40%
1500 - 40%
2000 - 39%
3000 - 38%
4000 - 37%
— VTEC set to 4400 RPMs —
5000 - 35%
6000 - 34%
7000 - 34%
8000 - 34%
Application of these ideals will find your AFC Hack producing the smooth, safe, reliable power.
that is cut out directly from the homemade turbo link posted above. is that a safe procedure to follow for tuning it? also, are these negative (-) percentages?
Yes
so what do u think about those settings? really all i want now is to tune it enough to drive around and make it about 30 miles north to baltimore and take it to a place to dyno tune it. also, how would i change those settings between Hi-Throttle and Lo-Throttle?
another question aout that: is that a setup for no turbo, just running normally aspirated with 450cc injectors? i thought when u had a turbo u needed to add fuel to the system, those specs are still in the negative range.
I think you need to do a little research on exactly how the AFC Hack works.
I’d explain it, but I hate the AFC…so I dont tend to educate people on how to use it.
Now if you want to talk chipping your ECU and running one of the free ROM editors…thats a different story.
have you ever burnt oil, out side of the car? it burns and lets off a blue smoke, never white. a car smokes white when it is burning water or antifreez. oil will NEVER burn white. you obviously havn’t a clue. :ban:
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1325913 look under SYN4DRDX’s post.
white smoke helppp! - Honda-Tech - Honda Forum Discussion look under dr _ latino’s post.
retard.
:owned:
i believe your headgasket threory was correct, i changed it tonight, havent had a chance to start it up yet though, i’ll let u know after i’m done.
you can’t read english can you? dr_latino stated that blue smoke=burning oil. I hope you don’t belive all the bullshit you read on H-T. There is ALOT of wrong info floating around.
that would be why your car was smoking white, you were burning water/coolant.
welp, wasn’t the headgasket. replaced it with a brand new one, and still smoking. i think maybe the seals on the turbo are blown out. and believe it or not, i have since decided to go with a chipped ECU. if someone could offer me some info, or maybe a link to where i can read some info about the basic concepts of a chipped ecu. i’ll search after i post this.