UPDATE:car idles up and down

it could be the IACV, TPS, or Fast Idle Valve but i bet my money it’s the Fast Idle Valve. Them things come loose inside and causes it to bleed air and bypassing the IACV. This is how you check it out, pull the fast idle valve off. remove the two 8mm bolts and the cover. you’ll see a diaphram type thing or almost a thermostat look operating system. if it’s all loose in there all you have to do is push down on diaphram thingy and screw it back in clockwise. not the metal part in the center. you’ll see what i’m talking about when you get it opened. that should take care of your idling problem cause it took care of mine and a few customers of mine after me telling them it was the IACV. (mechanics ripping people off again) j/k.

I think there’s another way of checking out if the fast idle valve is bad BUT am not sure is by unplugging the connector on the IACV, screw the idle speed adjustment screw all the way in(clockwise) and startup car. if car dies then it’s not the fast idle valve but if car idles erratically it’s the FIV. give this a try and see what happens and let me know if it works or not.

if you guys have any problems or questions, give me a holla.
azn4life2002@aol.com

azn

which one is the fast idle valve"??? i’m guessing it’s something that connects to the box on the back of the itnake manifold. and where are the bolts bro?? i’m gonna go try it out.

okay if you’re looking at the throttlebody, it’s just below it. there’s no electrical connection hook up to it. the only thing that holds it is (3) 10mm bolts and (2) small coolant hose hook up to it. once you remove it, you’ll see (2) 8mm bolts holding a cover. remove it and you should see the problem. that’s if it’s the problem. if not, then…holla if you have any troubles.

NO GUARANTEE IT’S GOING TO FIX YOUR PROBLEM BUT IT’S WORTH TO TRY AND SEE.:cool:

azn