after putting the ITR manifold, it sounds deman-ish, BUT it revs to 4 grand, then drops, 4 grand then drops, 4 grand then drops and i dont know how to fix it. after 4 or 5 of those my check engine light will come on and it will slowly die. when its revving up it almost sounds like its struggling or something i dunno. messing with the idle line isn’t doing anything . would this be because there’s no fast idle control valve for a cold engine? the engine is warm now and it’s still doing it…should i reset my ecu or what…eeek!! help i wanna go drive my teg!
cant anyone help?
PS-- is it critical to where each and every hose line goes? tomorrow 2 buddies and I are going to rip off all the hoses and start from scratch using their 2 cars as examples. wish me luck.
damn dood you have been having one hell of a time with that IM. Sorry I am no help, but I hope you get it solved soon.
reseting your ecu wouldn’t hurt…might help
and if you did get the routing for your hoses wrong then that might also be part of the problem
thanks for yer concerns guys. tomorrow im gonna tear it apart…or tear my brains apart. no wonder g2ic is so great.
ps- if anyoe has any ( or can take any ) shots of their intake manifold to show where each hose is going that would be a great reference. thanks. -later
Sounds like TPS sensor. What code are you running? This might help http://www.lyonel.8m.com/adjidle.htm
You would have saved yourself so much trouble if you went and got yourself a Helms manual.
Have you checked…
your PCV valve or the hose connected to it? I know for sure if the hose is off or the valve is damaged the engine will do that. HTH lates…
Lyonel— how do i tell what code i am running. i have my carpet pulled back so i can see my ecu, but i dont know exactly how to check it. no lights are blinkign but im still getitng a CEL. also:: in yer website it tells how to determine if it’s the tps sensor. what happens if it is? what do i do? also: eveyrthing worked fine b4 the install so im not sure what to do…hmm…
Turn your key to the “run” position and check how many times the LED blinks. Long flashes stand for 10 digits, and short flashes stand for single digits. Long pauses mean two seperate codes. So if it flashes 1 quick flash, long pause, then repeats itself, that would be a code 1 (Oxygen Sensor). If it flashes four long flashes followed immediately by three short flashes, that would be a code 43 (fuel system supply). Let me know if you have any problems.
as of now im not throwing ANY codes… BUT im still getting the high idle. eveyroen tells me there is a vaccuum leak. BUT WHERE?!? i can’t seem to find it! it’s agrivating the hell out of me. DAN— do you konw how the 92 LS’s have two purge vavles ( the circular things ) and my gsr only has 1 does that make a difference?? man this is frustrating. if you come up with anything please let me know
just in case you forgot the symptons its that it revs to 3 or 4 grand, then drops to 1k, then up and down up and down, no CEL anymore ( my vaccuum lines look good now ) and no codes BUT still weird idle. plese help!
I had a similar problem. I fixed it by a combination of reconnecting my eacv electrical connector and adjusting my TPS. Check for any fuel leaks around your injectors, did you replace the O rings on your injectors? they tear pretty easily. I was lucky I threw a CEL that pointed to TPS. I also rerouted all my water passages and removed my highspeed idle. I used a Skunk2 IM for a civic SI and a hondata heatshield IM gasket to keep my airintake temps down. My TB was sticking too, I think I have it fixed now, waiting for my RSR exhaust to arrive to test it first. GL
Has anyone meddled with the TPS sensor before you got hold of the TB? I say check the voltage outputs of the TPS sensor. If they’re ok, then you have a vacuum leak somewhere. Spray small amounts of CRC or WD40 on suspect areas (TB, vacuum nipples/hoses, intake manifold, PCV valve), when you see the liquid gets sucked in… you’ve found your leak!
Good luck, and may the force be with you.
well i just did all new vacuum lines, not throwing any codes. i followed ramblers’ pictures on bseries.net ( go there i just bumped up the forum if you want to see his pictures ) just wanna konw two things… i only have one purge cylinder. does the side of that run to the top of the throttle body ( the skinny nipple? ) also what about the hose that ran to the dashpot…should i just plug it or what? not sure what to do with that.
OK-- so b17v0rtech…you fixed it by reconnecting the EACV ( which is that thing you had to rebolt to back of the manifold right ? ) how did you do that…just unconnect …connect it…resset ecu? and how do you actually adjust your tps. lyonel i saw you how you determine if its wrong or not, but how do you adjust it. i konw how to check it…but it’s obviously it if i have no vaccuum leaks. …its the one on the throttle body correct? as far as tb goes, it sometimes sticks…like when its revving up or whatever, i’ll just hit the gas, and it will rev up (as i hit the gas) and just stick there for a second, i think b/c of the weird azz idle.
well i’ll trying to fix it all day tomorrow so i can drive to school this week…man it sucks getting picked up being a senior…haha… well someone please respond asap with any useful info. thanks guys, you dont konw how much it means to me. --later
You got mail!
integra t…i looked down to where the pcv valve pops into the whole or whatever and it wasnt “fully in”.so i got a screwdriver and popped that sucker in ther.hopefully that and the combination of my fixing all the lines and hoses and making them nice and neat ( all cut and whatever ) will work. do you have aim or aol my name is twstdguitr if you want to im me. im on right now. thanks again fro yer help. im gonna go read some mail …hehe.
alright boys…anyone have any extra strengh tylenol??
my hoses are connected firmly with new lines everything seems to be in place correctly…but still some funky idle. i guess it’s gotta be the tps sensor. can someone tell me how to adjust this? here are where my hoses are going if anyone cares
BTW, gsrs only have 1 purge solenoid
- FPR is going to small nipple point toward front
- bottom and side of purge are going to big back nipple (left)
- big brake booster cable (or whatever it is) going to other big nipple pointing upwards ( right )
- Map is going to small nipple on TB.
Im still not getting a check engine light, so i dont know what the deal is. someone please help. remember when i said ‘i think im gonna cry’ like 10 days ago…i lied…now i think im gonna cry 
please help!!
It’s possible that the TPS is bad since you are using a “unknown” throttle body. First off, the back of the intake manifold (big outlet) goes to the bottom of the puge control solenoid closest to the passenger side. Then the side outlet on the PCS goes to the charcoal EVAP canister. The MAP sensor is right, and the FPR is right. Quick question, did you apply a light coat of oil to the EACV and FPR O-rings? This is very important. Helps them seal. Also, make sure your EACV is connected correctly. The harness on the back and the two hoses (in and out). After all of this, let me know I can do anything else for you. Call me and I’ll walk you through the TPS Sensor check. And it is possible to take your B17A TPS and put it on the B18A TB. It just takes a little enginuity. Best of luck.
dan–the side goes to the charcoal evap?? is that the thing that had a really long hose and used to connect to that dashpot…i think im gnna try and use my b17a TB and see what happens seing how the tps might be messed up. just gonna see what happens. not like im gonna mess anything up sheehs…:sad: :sad: :sad: :sad: :sad:
ps. as far as putting a light coat of oil on the eacv and fpr rings…well…i never saw any o-rings. i just unbolted the eacv off the b17a and bolted it onto the itr. didn’t see any o-rings. also: next saw any o-rings on the fpr either, i didnt change any of the hoses on that one. thanks agian dan, hope you get this soon. i got skoo tomorrow
also : (sheesh) wouldn’t i be getting a CEL if my TPS was messed up? just tinkering…
OOH UPDATE:: IMPORTANT…THIS IS WHAT I GOT FROM HONDA-TECH.COM SOMOENOE JUST EMAILED ME (this is like the 4th time i’ve updated my own post…whao)
"The following reply was posted by civicjunkie:
clean ur idle air control valve on the back of the intake manifold.
two 14mm nuts hold it on and two coolant hoses and one harnees plug.
spray it down with carb cleaner and let sit for 1/2 hr then blow it out and reinstall.
i just did it to mine and it worked great!
"
hope this will work.
Well, there is an O-ring on both the EACV valve and the FPR. The O-ring on the EACV is kind of a figure 8 design. Two O-rings put together and inserted (stuck) in a groove in the EACV. Pull it back off and check it out. You can try your B17A TB, but you will most likely have to get a new TB gasket. Hope this helps.