I havnt tested them since I am in process of a engine swap also. Once that is done I can test em out. But for sure they do install the way I said it. In no way it goes in the hour glass way guarantee. They are already installed and it fits perfect.
Right on, where did you get those bushings from?
I would like to know as well.
Im playing with mine too. Ordered them through amazon.com and double checked part # on energy suspension.com
When u look up the parts on es.com it gives a link for install for the other bushings but not radius rod ones. They do fit much more snug when installed cones outward, but it seems like they are a lil taller then stock ones which might push the lower control arm further back and make a negative change on caster.
repair diagram shows cone out for stock bushing…not hourglass way like my pic…I just wanted to show the difference between the size of the bushings
That’s interesting ^^…Maybe the stock ones are compressed from being torqued down so long?
So are these radius rod bushings what cause my passenger wheel to sit further back in the wheel well?
If you look at my driver wheel…it’s dead center in the middle of the wheel well…then you look at my passenger and it’s off center to the rear…It’s the most annoying aesthetic problem I have with my car and have no idea how to fix it!!!
Makes my car look SPED!
What year car did you search? I don’t see those under 91 integra filter.
Oops…I think I ordered it from eBay lol. Most of my es was from summit racing. But look up 90-93 integra energy suspension and click on the front rod es one on eBay. They are from new jersey
I rather order through autozone. It’s faster I believe for me. They get here like 2 days for me in California and is cheaper cause no shipping charges.
They ride superb. All the es kit works great and I can feel it handle better. Much stiffer than before.
Just wait till you test them out on a launch, wheel hop was reduced by 50%.
So what’s the officially correct way to do these? 2 pages of speculation with no correct pics is unhelpful.
Anyone??
Hour glass shaped to torque specs?
What would the torque be?
Do you torque with the car off the ground?
Do you tighten each side evenly back and forth?
The subframe has a hole that allows the torsion bar to pass through, the bushings flat sides should both be sitting flush on this surface. These ES bushings give the appearance of an hour glass whereas the factory units were not quite that shape. Put the flat surfaces on the inside of the crossmember, also the lips on the washers face away from the bushings, not towards them. Torque the torsion bar bolts to 76 Ft lbs and the locking nut to 32 Ft lbs.
[QUOTE=wise_old_dragon;2194248]The crossmember is the bracing that goes underneath your oilpan from front of the car to the rear and is connected to the front subframe. Don’t get this confused with the subframe itself (which is also sometimes called the crossmember, but for the purpose of this thread I will call it the subframe). The subframe is a required component of your suspension unless you have a traction bar which replaces it entirely.
The crossmember can be removed and the car can still be driven safely, but it is not recommended. To me, there are only two valid reason to remove the crossmember and that is if your are installing a traction bar setup or to solve header clearance issues.
There are people who remove it purely for aesthetic reasons, but to me I find that stupid. However, it’s good to note that GSR’s did not come with a crossmember from factory. The crossmember was most likely designed for safety reasons, and it provides some extra rigidity so it should be left on unless it is totally necessary to take it off.[/QUOTE]
DO NOT REMOVE THE CROSSMEMBER, the car cannot be driven safely without it. You are referring to the CENTER BEAM, do not confuse the two as they are not the same.
So your saying hourglass positioningf is incorrect? You would need to flip the around so the flat sides were together basically, but on each side of the subframe?