i wanna know what you think of them, i hear they can restrict coolant, some say they dont, if i can get ahold of one, which is the best? for daily driver, thanks
wade
i have a JG edlebrock and i love it, coolant stays the same temp and all
thanks my man, can u tell me what all block work, FMU you have performed also so i can start in the right step! thanks so much
wade
Originally posted by turboteg1.8
i have a JG edlebrock and i love it, coolant stays the same temp and all
Jeff, who resleeved your block?
just make sure the guard has “notches” in it, it’ll allow more cooling surface.
Originally posted by B17A
Jeff, who resleeved your block?
I am an idiot! I meant to ask you who pressed in the block guard?
You won’t see an increase in overall water temperatures with a block guard, but the temperatures at the top of the cylinders will be increased from the restricted water flow
Originally posted by Tenzoteg92
[B]thanks my man, can u tell me what all block work, FMU you have performed also so i can start in the right step! thanks so much
wade [/B]
right now i just have a block gaurd and ARP head studs…hopefully by november my fully built bottom end will be done…Eagle H beam rods, JE 8.5:1 compression pistons, balanced crank, balanced clutchmasters flywheel and act pressureplate, and that is the extent of my block work
Jordan- i pressed the blockgaurd in, all you need is a rubber hammer and tap it lightly into place
hey Dave quick question, will the oil sending unit in the back of the blockbe enough oil pressure formy turbo at lets say around 16 lbs?
I personally dont think that there is anything wrong with blockguards as long as you get one that has opening for better cooling of cylinder, and you realise that your combustion chamber will be hotter, and will make the car more prone (if even slightly) to detonation.
It’s a choice you have to make:
10+psi on pump gas with block gaurd and a tad bit higher tune factor…
or 10+psi on pump gas with cracked cylinder walls and no motor…
which would you choose?
Originally posted by Formz TSi
[B]It’s a choice you have to make:
10+psi on pump gas with block gaurd and a tad bit higher tune factor…
or 10+psi on pump gas with cracked cylinder walls and no motor…
which would you choose? [/B]
I’m assuiming you’re talking about 10psi on stock sleeves?
sorry, maybe I should of made it more detailed… heh… but you get the idea!
sleeving is sooo cheap now that you’d be stupid to choose a different route. do it right once now or twice later…
is it cheap? how much does it cost about? 1,000?
Originally posted by qwkteg125
sleeving is sooo cheap now that you’d be stupid to choose a different route. do it right once now or twice later…
sleeving is stupid, unless it is a full race motor, or unless you are trying to save a damaged block…a block gaurd will do just fine
spending thousands on your car, turbo setup, & motor rebuild WITHOUT sleeving is stupid. sleeves from golden eagle can cost from like 700 - 800 dollars now. a blockguard costs 100 - 150 dollars. for the extra 600 or so dollars, you’ll have a motor that can handle anything you want to throw at it.
but i guess if you want a car with 250-300hp then stock sleeves will work okay. just make sure to tune it good or you’ll be sleeving later anyways.