Topic says it all, i wanna know, found a block 26 pinned by BRE in CA, wanna know downsides, anythin you have to offer for me:angel:
There really are no downsides if it was done right. The two most important things to remember when pinning block is 1)Location and 2)Torque. If you put the pins in the wrong spot, they’re nearly useless. If you torque them too much, you’ve warped your cylinder bore, if you torque them too little, again, they’re useless. I don’t know anything about BRE so I can’t say if they would’ve done a good job or not. Hope that helps. BTW: you can always take it to a machine shop and have the bore checked. They SHOULD’ve pinned it THEN bored it but you never know.
thanks alot my man:cool:
stizzit, i think you are referring to block posting, like what sonny did on h-t. pinning (what bre most likely did) is where posts are stuck in parallel between the water jacket & the cylinders. it doesn’t work & probably makes your cylinders weaker then before. bre no longer operates in cali because everything they built was garbage.
I believe pinning and posting is the same thing, if not then please explain the diff. Anyhow, posting/pinning does work for limited cases. If you are going FI, a lot of times at around 12-15psi on stock sleeves, if you’re TUNED right, the sleeves will start to “balloon” and that causes them to crack. You can prevent this on a low scale level just by pinning the block. This is the reason a block guard works. You pin the cylinder at the very top. and in the middle (need to calculate according to the motor) exactly where the crank/rod create the greatest angle therefor putting the most stress on the sidewalls of the cylinder. If its done RIGHT, the cylinders will be ok, I know pleanty of people who have been sucessfull at 12-15psi on stock sleeves tuned. There’s one guy, I swear was running upwards of 18-22psi on stock sleeves, but i don’t remember if thats correct. Anyhow, like I said, if you do it right, it can’t hurt, RIGHT?? As long as they’re not causing the bore to be out-of-round, you’re in the clear.
thanks stizzit
no prob.
bre method of block pinning:
top view of engine block:
long posts are placed parallel to the cylinder sleeve. this makes the cylinder weak between the posts & results in cracked sleeves.
sonny’s method:
posts are placed perpendicular to the cylinder sleeve to add support. looks like a better method but still pretty untested.
so qwkteg… i heard bre’s method the post you see dont go all the way down, they only go down about an INCH or so, my friend with a turbo del sol went with their method, ran perfect, so are you saying you believe stock sleeves with no pinning are stronger and more reliable then if they were pinned?
thanks
wade
well if we are talking about the work that bre did in cali vs stock sleeves i’d pick stock everytime. but i think bre maybe moved to texas & i’m not familiar with their work anymore. what happened with bre’s blocks was that the sleeves would crack inbetween the posts because the posts placed uneven stress on the cylinders or were drilled a bit to fit the posts.
how much power do you want to make? i make over 300hp & am still running on stock sleeves, at least until i round up enough cash to fully rebuild my spare block.
well shyt, if u can get 300 whp on stock sleeves ill go that way i didnt think u can do that, u got a gaurd?
yes i have a blockguard.
Originally posted by qwkteg125
yes i have a blockguard.
I really agree with you from the looks of things about block pinning but a block guard instead of pinning IMO is simply the lesser of two evils. Both are not very good methods of increasing strength for your block.
If upper cylinder support is the desired result then pinning of the block is FAR superior to that of a blockguard. Blockguards are the epitomy of junk. If you think that tapping some cheap metal POS into place with a hammer is going to do anything (other than restrict coolant flow!) you have issues.
Now then, I can understand the issues concerning sleeve cracking w/ pinned blocks if the sleeves in question are stock. By why would one pin a block and use the stock sleeves. Talk about getting the shaft. I personally ran a sleeved/pinned block from BRE back in 98-99 with zero problems (other than loss of traction:))
I do like that one guys method however, since we all know the point of stress is not at the top of the cylinder.
-bill
i never said a blockguard was a good thing. i’d take a sleeved block over a blockguard any day of the week. in fact, to people who want to rebuild their block, i don’t even recommend them.
but still, people have made good power with them, & while there have been many stories about them overheating or causing detonation, i haven’t had any bad experience running one, & it’s been in my car for 30k miles.
I would suggest going with a block with new sleeves installed by either golden eagle or darton. Darton sells the sleeve kits but I would only trust them to do the installation. Both their sleeves are made of a harder metarial which resists blowout like the stock sleeves and are supported heavily up top where the most pressure is.
So, would it not be safe to run 8-10 psi daily and possibly as High as 20 psi on the track runs with a pinned block?