Recently took my front pads off to inspect as they appeared to be low on life. Well come to find out ONLY the right outter was spent. All the rest have like 3/4 of thier life left. What gives? If it was the caliper that was bad, wouldnt the inside pad wear first?? All suggestions welcome and TIA!
Check ur slider pins…
Thats my only guess…
Good luck 
Shea, my guess would be the same as CVG2. Awhile back one of my front pads wore down completely! I never noticed it was worn because it was an inner pad and whenever i checked my brakes i usually just glanced at the outer (which look brand new). The caliper slide pins on both my front calipers were dry as a bone. I took the pads off my parts car so i wouldn’t have to buy new ones yet. Virtually the same thing happened on the parts car too, except it was the outer pads on that car… so i was lucky to have good inner pads to put on my car.
i dunno, mines the same way
my front passenger wears about 4 times faster than the others, i really dont care, i just replace it 4 times more than the others
-mike
same thing happened to my car, lube up the caliper slider pins.
The slide pins were very well lubed when I checked, but I relubed them anyway. Any other guesses?
Check your caliper mounting bracket (CMB).
The guide plates were gripping the pad too strongly, so it could not move freely back and forth. If this is your problem them take the plates off (two on each CMB) and bend them towards the CMB if they are not in contact, or sand the CMB at the area of contact with the guide plates.
The entire CMB may be deformed as well. If so, it must be replaced.
I had this problem on my teg before I installed my brakes; the inner pad did not come into contact with the rotor, which is the opposite of your problem but maybe requires the same solution.
Sorry I can’t be more specific, e-mail me if you want.
Im not following you on this. Im going to go look at the helms and see if I can decipher what youve said here with pictures…mabie. I just dont follow what the 2 plates that you speak of are. Thank you though, and youll prolly get a mail from me looking for more info;)
The two plates are aluminum clips which attach to the caliper mounting bracket. The upper plate is on the top of the pad (the top when the pad is turned on it’s side like it is when against the rotor), and the bottom plate is on the bottom side. Note: both pads go on the same guide plates (ie. 2 plates per caliper/wheel).
The pads slide toward and away from the rotor on the plates. The are directly attached to the CMB. It’ll be easy to see if/when you remove the CMB.
gspeed
are u talking about the thin platets that go on the back of each brake pad?
i think the inners have two and the outers have three
or maybe the opposite?
i also have this problem
thanks
relentless, I believe hes talking about the clips that actually hold the pads in place within the caliper, not the backing plates on the pads. I removed those pos’s a long time ago.
GSpeedR, if Im correct with that, I also noticed that when Im coming to a stop and let off the brakes, the car will still come to a stop as if I had a foot still on the pedal. Not like I was standing on it, but if I was just barely riding the brake. Another thing that makes me think that Im visualizing the wrong pieces is that the clips Im talking about are steel, not aluminum. I didnt get a chance to play with this stuff yesterday, so hopefully Ill have time later today. Thanks for your help!!
Shenrie : if the inside pad wears first that means your caliper’s seized???
I heard a squealing sound yesterday, so I pulled off my wheel and checked my brakes…sure enough, I had a good 60% - 70% left all around except for my right rear inner brake pad…the outer brake pad on the same rotor had a good 60% or so… but the inner brake pad was worn down to almost nothing. I haven’t tried lubing the sliders yet. But does this mean that my right rear caliper is seized? How do you diagnose a seized caliper properly???
Originally posted by shenrie
relentless, I believe hes talking about the clips that actually hold the pads in place within the caliper, not the backing plates on the pads. I removed those pos’s a long time ago.
Yes. Those are the right “plates”, or at least what I am speaking of.
GSpeedR, if Im correct with that, I also noticed that when Im coming to a stop and let off the brakes, the car will still come to a stop as if I had a foot still on the pedal. Not like I was standing on it, but if I was just barely riding the brake. Another thing that makes me think that Im visualizing the wrong pieces is that the clips Im talking about are steel, not aluminum. I didnt get a chance to play with this stuff yesterday, so hopefully Ill have time later today. Thanks for your help!!
Just judging from the fact that the pad seems to be pinned against the rotor and the fact that your caliper pins are lubed and it is properly functioning (not seized), I think that your CMB has deformed. If so, it is pinching the pads so tightly that they cannot move and not even the force of the spinning rotor can move them.
I would remove the problematic CMB and a good CMB and see if you can find any differences in their shape. The plates may be steel (I guessed when I said aluminum), but make sure that they are not bent upwards as well.
Originally posted by GenIITeg
Shenrie : if the inside pad wears first that means your caliper’s seized???
Not necessarily. If the caliper is seized, and it usually becomes seized when the piston is extended, then it is usually an inside worn too fast or both pads (compared to the rest of the car). You should also check the caliper slide pins which prevent the entire caliper from moving if un-lubed.
I heard a squealing sound yesterday, so I pulled off my wheel and checked my brakes…sure enough, I had a good 60% - 70% left all around except for my right rear inner brake pad…the outer brake pad on the same rotor had a good 60% or so… but the inner brake pad was worn down to almost nothing. I haven’t tried lubing the sliders yet. But does this mean that my right rear caliper is seized? How do you diagnose a seized caliper properly???
Check the pins first, then look at the CMB. Then I would check the caliper piston. An easy way to check if it is seized is to take needle nose pliers and place in the grooves on the front of the piston, and turn clockwise (I think :shock: ). Open up the master cylinder cap to relieve some pressure and push hard while turning. If you really can’t turn it at all, then it is probably seized.
I really appreciate all the info man! Ill definatly look into those clips. I dont see how they would be so tight as to help slow the car down even when my foot isnt on the brake, but Im at a loss for what else it could be. The pads snapped right into the clips without any kind of force, but Ill do some bending and go from there. Again, thanks for your help!!
GenIITeg, like GSpeedR said, but I thought Id just mention that Ive heard of the rear calpiers on our cars seizing up before. Luckily I havent had to deal with that yet.
ahh i know what youre talking about now…i think
its the thin metal spring type plate