Hello,
Just wondering if 1994 and up Integra, after market lower control arm fit on 1991 Integra. I try using search but couldn’t find any answer, not really good at surfing the page. Thanks for your time.
yea they are interchangeable… whats wrong with ur current one? and why do u want a 94 lower control arm?
my is fine, just that I want to get a after market one. I got a friend who is getting it away, just didn’t know if it fit. Thanks a lot for your help.
no prob. aftermarket isn’t better if its cheap like the blox ones, or if it has torn bushings. check it b4 u get it.
I should note that so far no where in this thread has anyone mentioned whether they are talking about FRONT or REAR lower control arms…
Because the FRONTS are NOT interchangeable.
(just wanted to state that so that anyone who stumbles across this thread in the future does not get confused)
yea thats true. i assumed he was talking about rears. gotta consider something tho… i’ve never seen a shop or vendor sell lower control arms for the front tho. i’m sure that its available, just never actually seen it thats all.
Yeah, thanks for the hint. I don’t know about front, never heard about people changing the front. Thanks for clearing it.
They have sold them before, just not a common item at all, and I’m not even sure if they are sold anymore. And I too assumed it was rear due to the abundance of these aftermarket rear arms… but someone not as familar, a noob, may be confused. Just lookin out 
yea no worries man. i’m even considering getting some aftermarket front lower control arms, or maybe just some eccentric cams for them to further adjust my camber in the front. need to get my camber a bit more positive on the fronts even after the skunk2 upper control arms.
How low are you? What camber settings do you want to run? Even when I was pretty slammed way back in the day I had no problems needing more positive camber (I was using the Ingalls extreme kit).
Personally I don’t see why anyone would want to run with anything more positive than -1 to -1.5 deg of camber. And that’s if you’re putting a lot of mileage on the car. I was running -1.25 deg in the front and my tires wore very evenly, they were potenza RE730’s and lasted over 30k miles. When they were finally worn out the inside was more worn than the outside, but by then even the outside was worn past the wear bars.
There’s a decent amount of performance to be gained by running negative camber and as long as you have good toe settings you aren’t going to see much of an accelerated wear pattern. Especially if you’re doing some spirited driving.
I don’t think I’ve ever seen aftermarket front lower arms for the DA. I know we can get bushings, but I’ve never seen a new aftermarket (performance oriented is what I’m taking about, I’ve seen aftermarket OE spec though:umno:) piece
well i did the alignment in my class. the car is lowered prolly around 3". after installing the skunk2 upper arms and pulling them all the way out, i got -1.7 degrees front left, and -2.1 degrees front right. i wanted to get -1 LF and -1.5 degrees RF. i personally prefer some negative camber as well. its just that if i can at least get it to like -1.25 LF, and -1.75 RF, i’m pretty sure that will get my car to almost have no drifting due to road crown. i have to go and find some 86-89 radius rods (caster rods) so i can adjust my caster, mine is at +3.5 degrees on both. and i believe spec is +1.5 i think, i have my print out that i made, and the specs for them. i think i could also just put extra washers on the both of them to push the front LCA’s to go more negative. the car handles great, except for my dumbass running on stock struts atm with lowering springs.
on rears ima put shims/spacers on monday tho, got -2.6 LR, and -4.1 RR. but will do it when i install my ES bushings for the entire LCA including the strut mount bushings.
[QUOTE=Squeezethis;1956781]well i did the alignment in my class. the car is lowered prolly around 3". after installing the skunk2 upper arms and pulling them all the way out, i got -1.7 degrees front left, and -2.1 degrees front right. i wanted to get -1 LF and -1.5 degrees RF. i personally prefer some negative camber as well. its just that if i can at least get it to like -1.25 LF, and -1.75 RF, i’m pretty sure that will get my car to almost have no drifting due to road crown. i have to go and find some 86-89 radius rods (caster rods) so i can adjust my caster, mine is at +3.5 degrees on both. and i believe spec is +1.5 i think, i have my print out that i made, and the specs for them. i think i could also just put extra washers on the both of them to push the front LCA’s to go more negative. the car handles great, except for my dumbass running on stock struts atm with lowering springs.
on rears ima put shims/spacers on monday tho, got -2.6 LR, and -4.1 RR. but will do it when i install my ES bushings for the entire LCA including the strut mount bushings.[/QUOTE]
Welcome to issues with Skunk2. They were made for an EF and will screw up your caster as you have observed. Read pages 6 and 7 on this thread for more details: http://www.g2ic.com/forums/showthread.php?t=178392&page=6&highlight=skunk2+camber+kit
Also, they only correct about half as much camber as they are supposed to due to this issue.
Correct caster is +1 deg +/- 1. Ideally, you want it set to 1 degree for normal driving. Also, you are going to want the toe set to 0 and the camber set evenly. I know the theory about road crown, but there are usually not that many issues with it. The only reason I would adjust at all for it is if you are having major issues with it with everything set evenly.
yea, i’m not a big fan of these camber kits, i got thru some ingalls (anchor type) kits b4, with no issues. considering my camber is off, but not by much, i think i can figure something out. regarding the caster, ima just go get the 86-89 accord radius rods, and modify them to fit the DA. i found out that my current radius rods, ate away a lil on my crossmember tho. so the front left has an elongated hole where the metal cylinder bushing part rubbed against the metal, and kinda ground it up. its still ok, just the fact that it has more freeplay within the crossmember. so a traction bar is looking kinda appealing at the moment. with or without a traction bar, i wanna change all the bushings in the front lower control arm tho.
oh and yea my toe is set perfectly to recommended specs right now. did a decent 4 wheel alignment, got the rear toe in spec, front camber and toe done (camber as far as i can get it). ima do the rear camber and the RLCA bushings this week. can’t wait 
Regarding caster, I posted that link for a reason. You can’t correct the amount caused by that camber kit. You might get it down to 3 deg without the wheel being terribly off center in the wheel well. Good luck and hope you like lots of caster.