just bought the car and some guy rebuilt the motor about 6 months ago. what could the problem be? i dont hear the v tec kick in :wtf: im 19 new to the game NEED HELP.
It could be a number of things. There are ways to test if the vtec is engaging or if the screen is clogged. First start with the basics… Is there a check engine light on? does both the cluster gauges work on the dash (rpm + speed) ?
there is no check engine light on and the cluster guages do work. i’ve driven other car and i can hear and feel the car hit vtec but idk about this one?
does it have an aftermarket intake on it? you’ll hear it much better than with the stock oem intake on. is there enough oil? if there isn’t, vtec wont engage also. is the green plug and grey plug plugged in?
it has the stock intake in it. i just changed oil and im not too sure what the green and grey plug is?
ill post a pic of my engine bay!
Is it just me or does he have an LS intake manifold…
I think you’re right man. That would explain why he don’t here the butterfly opening,why i say butterfly is because you don’t here the Vtec engage,you will feel it but its the secondary you here. Vtec should crack at about 4.500rpm unless he has it tuned to crack later or sooner,the secondary cracks at 5,500 or so RPM and that is what make the loud cracking sound people mistake for Vtec.
An LS manifold will not bolt to a VTEC head, nor will a VTEC valve cover fit on a non-VTEC head… So no, its not an LS intake manifold.
Secondly, one of the connections on your VTEC Solenoid looks like it has been butt-connected. Look near your distributor cap, there’s that light-green plug… but then right near that, it looks like a butt-connection. That definitely is not stock… But if there was a problem with the solenoid, you’d be getting a Check Engine Light, so its probably not an issue.
I would think it is either a clogged screen in your lsvtec solenoid, or low oil. Or hell, the previous owner could have swapped out the ECU and put in a non-vtec one. Unlikely, but possible.
Oh, and also, just because you dont ‘hear’ VTEC, doesnt mean its not working… Go by feel. A properly tuned/running motor should have a seamless VTEC crossover.
Edit
Motors dont ‘crack’, it’s a fucking crossover.
originally, 92-93 gsr comes with the single stage intake manifold, which doesn’t come with secondary butterlflies like your 94-95 (i don’t know your exact year) gsr motor swap.
vtec engages at 5600. i can really feel it when i’m carrying 2 more passengers while getting on the freeway WOT in 3rd gear.
[QUOTE=iogearz;2190504]originally, 92-93 gsr comes with the single stage intake manifold, which doesn’t come with secondary butterlflies like your 94-95 (i don’t know your exact year) gsr motor swap.
vtec engages at 5600. i can really feel it when i’m carrying 2 more passengers while getting on the freeway WOT in 3rd gear.[/QUOTE]
You are correct.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_B_engine#B17A1
B17A1
* VTEC
* Found in:
o 1992-1993 Integra GS-R (DB25)
+ Displacement: 1,678 cc (102.4 cu in)
+ Bore: 81 mm (3.189 in)
+ Stroke: 81.4 mm (3.205 in)
+ Rod/Stroke Ratio: 1.63
+ Rod Length: 132.28 mm (5.208 in)
+ Compression: 9.7:1
+ VTEC engagement @ 5500 rpm
+ Power: 160 hp (120 kW) @ 7600 rpm & 117 ft·lbf (159 N·m) @ 7000 rpm
+ Came equipped with the YS1 cable trans, which was different than other cable B-series transmissions as it has a different input shaft.
JDM B18C Spec R
Type R
* VTEC
* Found in:
o 95-00 JDM Honda Integra Type R DC2
o 95-00 JDM Honda Integra Type R DB8
+ Rev-limit: 8600 rpm
+ Power: 200 PS (147 kW; 197 hp) @ 8000 rpm & 17.5 kg·m (172 N·m; 127 ft·lbf) @ 7500rpm (96 spec) 18.5 kg·m (181 N·m) @ 6200 rpm (98 spec)
+ Transmission: S80 with Helical LSD
+ S80 spec: J4D (96 Spec: 4.4 final drive), N3E (98 Spec: 4.785 final drive w/ 1.034 4th & .787 5th Gears)
+ Displacement: 1,797 cc (109.7 cu in)
+ Compression: 11.1:1
+ Bore: 81 mm (3.2 in)
+ Stroke: 87.2 mm (3.4 in)
+ Rod Length: 137.9 mm (5.4 in)
+ Rod/Stroke Ratio: 1.58
+ VTEC Engagement @ 5800 rpm
+ ECU code: P73-003 (96specR) P73-013 (98specR)
(Source: BMI Vol.1 Type R Legend)
JDM B18C1
SiR/GSR
* VTEC
* Found in:
o 93-95 JDM Honda Integra Si-Vtec (DB8, DC2 round lights)
o 95-98 JDM Honda Integra SiR/SiR II (DB8, DC2)
o 98-99 JDM Honda Integra SiR-G (DB8, DC2)
+ Identification: Black valve cover with dual runner intake manifold
+ Red Line: 8100 rpm
+ Rev-Limit: 8484 rpm- 8550 rpm (*For some only, most newer model SIR/SIR-G cut off at 8254rpm)
+ Power: 132.39 kW (180 PS; 178 bhp) @ 7200 rpm & 128 ft·lbf (174 N·m) @ 6200 rpm
+ Displacement: 1,797 cc (109.7 cu in)
+ Compression: 10.6:1
+ Bore: 81 mm (3.2 in)
+ Stroke: 87.2 mm (3.4 in)
+ ECU code: P72
+ VTEC Engagement @ 4500 rpm
+ Transmission S80 (with optional LSD)if you’re not sure then dont post anything… i know you are just trying to help but you’re confusing him more. you’re obviously confused you’re self if you think that an ls manifold would fit on a vtec head. early jdm b16 that are obd 1 came with that manifold that says programed fuel injection on it… it was a big thing back then and something to brag about… as stated by “iogearz” the b17 only has one stage intake manifold… b18c gsr is the only one that doesnt. and not all vtec engaes at 4500 rpm…again you are going by what you’re engine does… and assuming its the same for all other vtec engines. his engine is more similar to a b16 then a b18. hes vtec egages at about 5800. and its not “CRACKING” its a crossover… those are annoying slang term that people use.
and just like “UNIFIED” said… just because you dont hear it doesnt mean it doesnt work… i always laugh when i hear kids arguing over “WHOS VTEC CRACKS HARDER?” lol doesnt matter a healthy engine should have a smooth vtec crossover… if you’re check engine light isnt on… then chances are that you’re vtec is working properly… and if you’re oil pressure light isnt on… then you have enough oil and you should be fine. let me ask you this… when you’re driving and you’re past 6500rpm does the engine feel slugish in getting all the way to 8000rpm?.. thats a good way to know if its not engaging… you have to go by what you feel and not by what you hear… anyone guy who truly knows his car would instantly know when somethings wrong and vtec isnt working. hope this helps… i know you’re new to the game… and dont feel dumb… their is no such thing as a stupid question… now is the time to ask… so you wont look stupid later… we were all new at one time. just bugs me when ppl give false info and they are cluelss themselves… i suck at electrical… so u know what… i never post on that forum lol… i just read and learn…
You are correct man. I should of thought about what i was posting first about the intake reply. With the other reply about Vtec engagement,i was going off my motor and didn’t think to look it up,my bad OP,didn’t intend to post misleading info.
its ok man… i didnt mean to sound like a dick… its just that misinformation is the worst thing out their… lets be sure of what we are posting… its what will seperate us from honda tech =P
Just because there are no check engine lights does not mean that everything is running as it should. For all we know, the OP could have had his ecu chipped with all of the CEL warnings turned off or the dash wiring hacked up…
Sorry It may be just me, but I am always wary of vehicles that are for sale with non-OE parts. If the vehicle was for sale, then there may be a possibility that the previous owner had a problem and tried to mask CELs by hacking up stuff. Yes, you can call me paranoid.
maybe his knock sensor? or his bad vtec solenoid connection? or even a wrong ecu?
Those first two would cause a CEL… like wise_old_dragon said, if the ecu he’s using is functioning correctly.