im building a ls/vtec motor to replace my gsr motor and i have a few questions… i have a 82mm b18b1 block that i plan on sending to GE to be bored to 85mm sleeved and was wondering how to calculate for pistons/rod combo after buying a 95mm eagle crank?? could i still run 13:1 pistons and eagle rods with a crank that size?? im reusing the b18c1 head for this setup, skunk2 cams, gears and complete valvetrain with a portflow worked head… jg edelbrock victor x manifold and 70mm throttle body… i want to run 85mm X 95mm b18b1 block fully built with a 96 gsr head fully built to make 260+hp at the crank… definitely achievable on planned setup just trying to figure out specific details beforehand… could a 74mm throttle body ever work or would it be overkill on a N/A possibly nitrous setup?? whats the biggest bore i could go considering it will be sleeved… i was considering buying a itr motor but thought built ls/vtec would be more efficient and within the same price range… considering i got all the engine parts already as far as tranny head and block times two…
If you were to go with the stroker crank you would need corisponding rods. If you didnt i dout you would be able to put the head on. Personaly i wouldnt run a 95mm crank on a ls due to the already poor stroke to rod ratio and that will make it even worse. Crower makes a 92mm stroker i believe that will give you a better stroke to rod ratio than the 95mm. I believe 85mm is as large as you can go on a sleeved block. You should be fine with the 70mm throttle body for your setup. I also would look into a block girdle the ls motor is already relivly weak compared to the b18c and b16. that will be one hell of a motor tho! good luck
well its going to be cylinder sleeved from golden eagle… ive seen a 85mm x 95mm ls/vtec making 270hp so i know its possible and if i use aftermarket rods wouldnt that help with the rod to stroke ratio??
i have a b18c1 motor too just was told that ls bottoms are better for all motor built than gsr blocks…
my buddy just finished his B20v set up with stock crank, eagle rods, Arias 12:5 comp pistons, bored to 84.5
stock sleeves, 5 angle cut on the valves mild head worruk by portflow and buddyclub s tg 3 cams.
70 mm throttle body, vectorX
manifold, 600 cc injectors, high capacity fuel pump.
some high output $600 headers tuned on 91 gas and s200.
it put down 252whp all motor and his set up was made for a 250 shot of nitrus.
oh and it was dynoed in 95 degree heat hear going to add the unit later.
and it’s daily driven.
[QUOTE=da6xsi06;2256664]my buddy just finished his B20v set up with stock crank, eagle rods, Arias 12:5 comp pistons, bored to 84.5
stock sleeves, 5 angle cut on the valves mild head worruk by portflow and buddyclub s tg 3 cams.
70 mm throttle body, vectorX
manifold, 600 cc injectors, high capacity fuel pump.
some high output $600 headers tuned on 91 gas and s200.
it put down 252whp all motor and his set up was made for a 250 shot of nitrus.
oh and it was dynoed in 95 degree heat hear going to add the unit later.
and it’s daily driven.[/QUOTE]
NICE… i have a 250shot direct port nitrous wet setup i plan on using on setup eventually.
you gotta pay to play
lol not sure what u mean but okay…
GS-Rs have block girdles, piston-squirters, bigger connecting rod bolts and higher compression…
In short, stock for stock, the GS-R block is more stout.
I ment that its not cheap to make reliable builds that make power.
[QUOTE=unified112;2256824]GS-Rs have block girdles, piston-squirters, bigger connecting rod bolts and higher compression…
In short, stock for stock, the GS-R block is more stout.[/QUOTE]
exactly stock for stock… im not doing a stock for stock comparison. im doing a built vs built comparison with higher compression than ITR pistons, forged rods, arp rod bolts, sleeved block… which if im not mistaken forged internals dont need piston squirters compared to oem internals because they run at a cooler temp…
yes anything thats fun costs a lot of money, thats a given… but this isnt a overnight gotta have it right away build… more like a take time research and learn build while using the best parts i can afford even if its one part at a time…
the reason i think building a ls block compared to a gsr block is more bottom end torque which really helps for na builds… if i were to be doing an oem build with itr internals then id use a gsr block but since im going fully aftermarket build from oil pan to crank to rods to pistons then everything in head all the way to the tb i think the ls block would be better… im keeping the gsr block because i have an extra b16 head with type r internals so all i need is itr pistons and whola type r for another car…
If you’re doing a complete build, then it doesn’t matter which block you go with. And yes, oil-squirters aren’t needed with aftermarket pistons as they cool themselves with the ring/piston design they utilize.
Though the girdle would still be a nice addition.
I’m a fan of LS motors for sure though 
[QUOTE=unified112;2256926]If you’re doing a complete build, then it doesn’t matter which block you go with. And yes, oil-squirters aren’t needed with aftermarket pistons as they cool themselves with the ring/piston design they utilize.
Though the girdle would still be a nice addition.
I’m a fan of LS motors for sure though :)[/QUOTE]
i agree about the girdle… i plan on slowly but surely building exactly what i want and just figure out what works and what doesnt… i have a motor in the car running plus another longblock in the garage all taken apart… n ive always wanted to do a full build so i thought b18b1/b18c1 85x92-95mm motor in 2 years or so…
if your planing a serious build like that then it would be best if you turned to some thats build the setup your looking towards.
not to say you dont know what your doing but if your going to invest alote of time and money on parts then I would get a second opinion. you migjt not have to go all out on parts if you have a hp goal, I can tell you 250whp is doable all motor.
let me know of your willing to get a second opinion on your build cuz I can point out a couple legit shops that do these builds all day, and bring em out at night to run in Compton.
this is my current builder.
check out the couple last races on the second half of the vid.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ym4inZr7Jd8&feature=youtube_gdata_player
yeah your right… i gotta whiz mechanic car builder for a friend that helps me understand what to do and how it works… ill admit i dont know as much as i should but im very resourceful and read stuff on the internet thats relevant quite often… there are alot of knowledgeable builders out there but if your not in their inner circle of friends they dont bother helping as much unless your forking over dollars every time… i understand the principle behind building the motor, im just tryna find out what works and what doesnt… im really in no rush, got alot of bills every month, but id like to start building a motor with extra funds… thankfully i have two seperate b series motors in my garage so if something happens to one i have a back up…
i know of alot of good builders in LA that go to compton races like richewerk, jerrybuilt, do it dyno, prostreet… and even a few local heads like jeremy nutt and a buddy with a 700-900hp crx locally…
i have a buddy with a civic (gsr) that just did full skunk2 head parts, im, tb and made 230hp crank on s300… stock block.
i had my buddy explain that larger cranks require shorter rods… also how to pre check head clearances, etc etc…
all im saying is im in no rush and am willing to research alot for my self on the internet and take time sourcing the right parts because once its all sourced out im going to send the long block to golden eagle to be assembled, blueprinted, and balanced professionally… im just trying to figure out bottom end because top end is pretty easy…
that videos pretty koo… when their racing in the desert thats where i live… i know alot of people have high dreams n expectations on the internet, but if you knew me personally youd know ive never been one to bullshit or look at things unrealistically… i know how much its going to cost financially just for the parts i want, ive already made a test list and priced them out which is why im saying im not in a huge rush… ive got alot of what i want to use like a complete b18c1 motor running in my DA plus a extra built ls/vtec long block and direct port nitrous setup sitting in my garage so all i need are the internals and machine work… i use these forums and others to try and gain insights/knowledge but mostly rely on my own resources, friends, and trial/error… i kind of dont like posting too much on the internet forums because of not being taken seriously unless you got a 20000 build already done… but i read alot of threads and posts all the time to learn as much as i can…
theres only one import shop where i live which i hate and i dont kick it with many honda people mostly old school muscle guys for some reason, i think its because they respect the way i present myself in person and my car… its not like all the other stickered out jdm ricers out here… anyways im saying im a one man team whos obsessed with honda/acuras so i dont mingle too much with other import builders/enthusiasts that much which hinders how much i can learn hands on with other people… ive pretty much learned hands on everything i know on my own car(s).
thanks for the help fellas… anything is better than nothing… i just have a mentality of gotta start somewhere… once i do something a few times i usually 9 times out of 10 got it down by then…
when i got this DA it was a rolling shell and me and a buddy did the swap and its ran great for 3 years now… then i met a buddy whos a painting god then we did the full paint job… all im saying is once im presented with a project or problem i do what i gotta do to figure it out… i dont stop or quit just because its hard…