Hey guys I’ve been trying to fix this problem for a couple of months now. First I’ve replaced the plugs wires cap rotor button fuel pressure regulator fuel pump taken off the cat n resognator n fuel filter but my car still feels real sluggish between 4000 to 5800 unless I have just started the car in the morning. I also have n issue with my fuel I can’t seem to use all my gas before I run out. I only get about 9 gallons n I start to shut off when I stop. Taken the tank off to see if the pump is set right n it is. Any help on this would be appreciate it I n everyone I know can’t figure what’s going on thanks n advance
Have you checked the ecu for codes?
The Teg Tips section has an article on checking that.
The O2 sensor comes to mind since it seems to run fine in open loop mode (cold and not running off the O2, just the MAP sensor and the ECU fuel map to determine fuel amount) then laggy in closed loop (running at normal operating temp with O2 sensor and MAP both operating). The O2 sensor does not read correctly when cold and the ECU ignores it until its warmed up.
As for not using all the fuel in the tank… Does your fuel gauge work properly? There are a few things that can cause your issue including a partially clogged prefilter or the pump is failing. Or it could be a lot of crap in the fuel tank.
Have you checked the fuel pressure throughout the RPM range? A permanent fuel pressure gauge and extra 02 sensor with a gauge is a good idea for OBD0 cars, I have both and it helps a lot with the fine tuning. Also did you use a factory FPR or an aftermarket one?
I haven’t had the ecu checked yet will n a few days. The tank is clean n pump is new n I’m running a factor fpr. Could the injectors be failing r clogging. I also unplug my fit valve to stop the irratical revving. Is there any way I can adjust my fuel air mix. N thanks for the input so fAr
Alright I haven’t had a chance to get my car tested. Yet but I unplugged the wire that runs to the o2 censor n it still runs the same. Any other suggestions
So you are saying that the car runs the same with or without the O2 sensor?
If it were me I would put a new one in.
Dump some fuel system cleaner in the tank for good measure. I recommend the big bottle of Lucas brand, its much cheaper in the long run than single use bottles. I use it with every 3 or 4 tanks of gas. Plus with the big bottle you can score brownie points with friends and family by hooking them up.
Did you check the ecu for trouble codes yet? Its simple and quick to do.
http://g2ic.com/tegtips/engine/13.html
The easiest and cheapest way to adjust the fuel pressure is with an adjustable regulator. I have a $45 B&M and it works great, you have to cut the OEM regulator in half so if you still have the old one it would work out well. There are also a few other fpr manufactures but they are all much more expensive. I don’t recommend doing this unless you can confirm what the issue is, or else you will just be throwing good money after bad. Its also good to pair it with a secondary O2 sensor and gauge witch are not overly expensive either. I got the summitracing special for under $50.
Also wtf is a fit valve?
Fit stands for fast idle thermo its the censor that is riveted to the throttle body. I plugged it back n and the o2 n the car started to run better when I shifted r started out at a red light. N no I haven’t had it tested been n the middle of moving n keep getting side check. What do u mean I need to cut the fpr n half I have the old one n its still good so if u would write back n tell me cause I’m pretty sure I’m running lean
I don’t know rather I throwing a 1 n then a 35 since there r no 35 listed I’m assuming its a 45 since I have a cold air then I’m throwing 7 10 n 20 that’s the light beating fast no other slow numbers other that the 4 for 45.
Fast idle thermovalve I got :owned:
Yea keep that. If its an issue then try this:
http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1564019
Its an article for a 3rd gen, buts ours is similar. Since I am anal retentive I replaced the rubber seals from the dealership. My valve was clogged up with gunk from old coolant when I got it.
Here is a Hondatech write up on the FPR I am talking about. It should explain it rather well. I did it with a small hand saw and a file.
http://hondaswap.com/auto-multi-media/how-install-b-m-fuel-pressure-regulator-pics-79971/
This is where I got mine.
http://www.jegs.com/i/B%26amp%3BM/130/46057/10002/-1
Here is the install instructions from the manufacturer.
http://www.bmracing.com/bmracing/installation_instruction/9500645-04.pdf
Here is the fuel gauge I run, it mounts on the fuel filter
http://www.jegs.com/i/B%26amp%3BM/130/46054/10002/-1
Looks like a myriad of small headaches.
#45: Air fuel is off - lean due to increased airflow or a bad O2 sensor or both.
#7: Throttle angle - Likely the Throttle Position Sensor on the Throttle Body
#10: Intake Air Temp - The sensor is on the top of the manifold
The sensor is #21 on that page. Its plastic. Plug it back in if its not connected. If its already connected then replace it (its cheap).
20 ELD Electronic Load Detector. Ok that one will sends me on a rant. My 01 Civic threw that for no reason at all. I reset the ECU and it never came back. I think it was there to get me into the dealership for some service. As for the Integra, not sure what can cause it. Try searching this site some more, I’ve seen the topic covered before.
The electric load is probably going to be my amp n sub since I running just one batterie n hitting 144 db. Oh yeah I think I know what the big problem is my distributor seized up last night on my way home from work. I have to go to a junk yard today to find one temp. Auto zone wants 250 for A stock one that’s just crazy I purchased a high performance for my c10 n it was only 150
Yea distributors can be expensive for a Honda. Part of the reason is the coil is inside the cap. Sometimes you can get a reman’d one without a coil to save $.
If you can stand to wait for shipping RockAuto.com has them much cheaper than Autozone. Its where I go for a lot of parts when I’m not in a immediate hurry.
Good luck.
I’m going to go to a couple of junk yards tomorrow n see if they have one to get me bY. Its going to cut in my tire fund and considering there bald I need some pretty bad but with out a dist. I want be going anywhere so I’m pretty much screwed unless I find a used one. Thanks for all the help though.
Well no luck with the junk yardS n I needed it today so I went ahead n threw the 230 n got one. The crappy part its a remaned. But at least it will turn I’m going to insatll it in the morning. U don’t think I could have ruined anything with it freezing up it didn’t stop suddenly I was able to turn it with pliers n a lot of force so I think I’m ok with everything else
Installed my distrib the other day. It fixed the problem. Its like a new car runs through thr rpms like its suppose to. Do u know how to reset the ecu so I can see if those codes pop back up
Unplug the battery.