91 GS engine swap questions..

OK some of you may remember a thread awhile back here where I was looking for an importer of JDM engines for my 1991 integra GS.
I then after reading the replies and seeing the price difference between a JDM engine and another B18A1. Low and behold I came across a buddy of mine who’s got this CRX he’s wanting to get going and he’s got a clean as hell B18A1. The only reason he hasnt put it in the CRX is due to the wiring and several other things needed in order to swap the acura engine over to his CRX.
Roughly he’s wanting $500. He own’s a reputable stereo system retail/installation store, so if he gives me his word the engine is good and not gonna knock or turn out to be shit then he’s got more than enough Collateral to make me sleep well at night until it’s put in my car.

So heres the ten million dollar questions I only trust the people here to answer for me…

  1. First- I’ve heard of buyers performing a compression test and also a leak-down test. How effective are these for determining a good from a bad engine?

  2. Second- How does one do a compression test and a leak-down test?

  3. Third- He says the engine is from a 1991 integra LS . Will there be any problems in swapping it into a 1991 integra GS? LS & GS are just trim levels right?
    Thanks again,

You’re not going to be able to do a compression test with the engine out of the car. You can do a leakdown test, which is better than the compression test anyway. You need a leakdown tester obviously and an air compressor capable of holding at least 100 psi from what I remember. I’m sure if you search leakdown test you will find plenty of step by step instructions probably with pictures too.

I’ve never done a leakdown test with an engine out of the car but it seems to me it would actually be easier.

GS and LS is the same engine, just different trim package, so no issues there.

Leakdown is not a bad idea, also dont be afraid to take off the oil pan and take a look, same for the valvecover, but thats about it.

OK, I gots me another B18A1 for $400.
Getting it put it for $650.
Thats they include gaskets ,fluids and Belts.

What else should I get done honda style components /ect???:umno:

Should just swap for a b18b. The difference is very noticeable, in my opinion. I have 2 DA’s, one with a b18a, and another with b18b.

And that’ll just drop right in the same as the B18A1 ? :angel:

Yea, very few differences. Really easy swap to do. There’s a writeup on this site somewhere.

Yeah, I just already got the engine (b18a1) and just wanted to know what to specifically have done besides just having the damn thing thrown in there like alot of mechanics/shops will do. This shop/mechanic I know, he’s good but if not pushed to do anything extra,better, top-notch, he wont do it.
But if I’m in there w/the best plugs and crap along those lines. Which is whats got me probing to see whats new and preferred in todays integra customs.

So anything?


[QUOTE=lowjack;2085771]Getting it put it for $650.
They include gaskets ,fluids, Belts and the lube for my ass. [/QUOTE]

$650 is only a good price if they did the timing belt, water pump, tensioner oil pump seal, rear main seal, gaskets, fluids, plugs and resurfaced the flywheel and installed your supplied clutch. It is much easier to install all of these things with the engine out of the car.


Make sure you install a timing belt and new pumps for sure. A full gasket refresh is never unheared of either. The more new you get, the better.

And as the previous poster said, 650 to install is only a good deal if they do the timing belt, water pump, tensioner, wiring, clutch, all the fluids ect…

If your concerned about it being done, take your flywheel out to be resurfaced yourself so you know its done right. Make sure you see your new water pump and timing belt and tensioner before they go in. Have a look at your clutch and make sure alls well there. Get new throwout bearings, pilot bearings and spring and hand them to the guy. Plugs and wires ect are less of a big deal cuz you can change them yourself afterward. Also dont forget about motor mounts…If yours are pooched its easy to stiffen/repair/replace them when the motors out…not easy when its installed. Transmission, main seals, axles, like Patch said…The more you do now the better. Some of those seals and gaskets cost pennies but can mean the difference between trouble free and a huge PITA down the road.

Whatever you do just take your time and get this done right…Cuz there’s no goin back once its in there. Good luck!

OK heres a update on the horrible progress with my b18a1 swap.
My mechanic buddy says that it either needs a new head gasket or its got a cracked block since it’s throwing white smoke out the tailpipe and the coolant is all up in the oil dipstick.
So if it passed a compression test could it still be a cracked block?

I hope not and a head gasket is the cause but the oil dipstick was full of coolant he showed me. Is there any reason anyone can think of that maybe my mechanic didnt do or did do wrong or not at all that would cause this problem?