whats up.
first off the sites cool as hell.
and second the two (well was three) issues i have i’ve searched up on.
for the past week or so.
i own a 1991 acura integra GS (got her for free).
first problem was map sensor. (found out today that the white wire has a break in it).
so she runs beautiful!
now the park lights and fog lights doesn’t work.
the fuse blows evrytime you turn the park lights on.
(or fog lights).
i dissconnected the harness, of of the rear lights.
removed the corner/parklight bulbs.
even had the radio removed.
and the dash cluster harness dissconnected.
the fuse still blew.
the head lights work.
when i first got the car the engine bay fuse panel for the stoplight/horn was blown/melted so i replaced the fuse panel.
the fog light relay clicks and the button idicator turns on. no fogs.
so i was either suspecting the park light relay. icu. or the headlight switch.
sorry for the long post, hopefully yall can help me out.
First, the fog light switch, [that controls the fog light relay, gets its power from the left low beam fuse, fuse 4 -10A, in under dash fuse box.
That’s why the fog light switch works and you can hear the relay, fog light fuse is fuse 19 -15A, [ hot at all times] in under dash fuse box.
The park lights and fog lights are on different circuits, park lights are fuse 11 - 15A, in under dash fuse box.
todau i put in a 20amp fuse for the fog lights.
they turned on but everytime i turn em’ on it whould draw so much current that the engine idle would go down.
and the lights whould dim.
but those are the only fuses that whould blow.
the clock, radio , interior lights, turn signal,hazard every thing works but the fogs and park lights…
NEVER replace a fuse with a bigger one, you can burn your car to the ground.
I would check the wiring around the front park lights and fog lights, for both the fuses to blow, [two independent circuits] there has to be a short, probably a pinched harness containing both the fog light and park light leads, both can only be together at the front of the car.
Let me ask you this, has the car been in an accident?:idea: 94
okay i had the wires separated (or so i thought).
and put in the fuse for the park.
and they worked.
i went upstairs for about 5minutes and came back down and smell burning like.
i seen the wires were smoking and i seen the harness by the firs wall smoking also.
so i guess i can cut open the wire then split em’ all up and take it from there…
okay i looked to see what more damage was done.
it melted the map sensor wire harness, the low brake light, but on the harness that melted by the cruise motor.
only two wires melted one was gound and the other was i belive for the horn.
but i looked inside and seen that the wires melted inside too.
the onlyones that i could see was where they go into the firewall then they connect into this orange thing…
so even if i have to replace it all the way to the fuse is it still easy to just to replace to whole harness.
from the lights to the cabin??
If you also have damage wiring inside the car, [dash harness] you really have no choice but to replace them, and although the engine bay harness is not that hard to replace the dash harness will require a dash pull:uhoh:94
yea it’s mainly for the lighting system…or so i thought.
i cut that and now no brake lights, reverse lights, no interior lights, no beeping when you leave the door open or leave the key in.
and no starty.
i checked for codes and the led stays lit for about a second then flashes quickly 5 times.
the code five is for the map sensor.
which i rewired and replaced…the same thing.
OIC, one of the main harnesses coming from the engine bay fuse box.
I am afraid you have no other options then to replace the dash and engine bay harnesses along with the engine bay fuse box if there is any damage to it.:shock:94