'92 RS track and autocross thread with build, pictures & videos

GENERAL At The Track
81

nice love to now there some autocross da out there…

i also have a 90 db1 rs im going to start on a track near me call adams motorsport park they charge 20 bucks per season and is time atack
but i spun a bearing last week so im building a b20vtec that will make around 200/220 whp i know dont have the skills right now to use all that hp…
what mods should i make to my car to get better handling?
so far i order a energy suspension master kit and i have agx dampers on prelude ground control coilovers

thanks in advance for comments sugestions:up:

82

Really, less is more unless you have experience. I’d recommend:

  • make sure all of your suspension is in good condition (bushings, wheel bearings, ball joints, rod ends)
  • make sure your brakes are safe (plenty of pad life, working calipers, lines are in good condition, good fluid with no air or water in the lines)
  • get an alignment at West End in Gardena, or another shop that can setup the car for you, not just your local tire shop
  • make sure your tires are up to the task

If you absolutely must make modifications then I’d go for Suspension Techniques sway bars and stickier tires. But really you should just get out and drive. You’re going to have WAY too much power when you start out. If you can learn to drive the car like that you’ll be better off in the long run, but if your swap happens to have a limited slip you’ll have an easier time controlling the massive wheel spin you should be expecting.

83

[QUOTE=skull_leader;2310052]nice love to now there some autocross da out there…

i also have a 90 db1 rs im going to start on a track near me call adams motorsport park they charge 20 bucks per season and is time atack
but i spun a bearing last week so im building a b20vtec that will make around 200/220 whp i know dont have the skills right now to use all that hp…
what mods should i make to my car to get better handling?
so far i order a energy suspension master kit and i have agx dampers on prelude ground control coilovers

thanks in advance for comments sugestions:up:[/QUOTE]

Please see this new thread: http://forums.g2ic.com/showthread.php?217287-Beginner-s-guide-to-track-days

84

i was wondering rack and pinion setup you guys running… i have my oem one but with out pwr stering are you guys running like this on road racing

i now you could put ef manual rack on it but is really nessary or is good how it is

85

I’ve been toying with the idea of moving to the EF rack w/ Quaife steering quickener but not looking forward the added steering effort. It would be nice to have that shorter lock to lock but it’ll also be harder to drive, so I’m on the fence. I’ve and an EF rack w/ Quaife sitting in the garage for a couple years now and haven’t gotten the motivation to try it out.

86

yeah i now the only way il do this is if motor out off car… wich my will pretty soon:rockon: you interest on sellin it?

87

Sorry, it’s not for sale.

88

The season is off to a good start! The NASA mid atlantic region’s strongest field is TTE, which is what i’m running. I have my TT license and i’m going to become an instructor at the next event.

2014 NASA-Mid Atlantic SPRING RUMBLE at Summit Point, TTE class
Saturday - 2nd place
Sunday - 2nd place

2014 NASA-Mid Atlantic LAP DANCE at VIR, TTE class
Saturday - 2nd place
Sunday - 1st place

CAR CHANGES

  • I had to add 80 pounds of ballast in the off season, but it still wasn’t enough. I’m looking to shave “points” to remove some of the ballast. I’m considering going back to stock brake hardware and running ducts, and eliminating my LSD (need to decide if LSD is important for a low powered car on road course).
  • I am running 12k front and 10k rear rates on my illuminas. On track they handle the rates decently, on the street it can get uncomfortable. Eventually i may look into PIC or AMR.
  • I had to go back to stock swaybars to also save some points. I’ll see how much it affects my lap times at the next event.

[video=youtube_share;TKzdzF1GSt4]http://youtu.be/TKzdzF1GSt4[/video]

89

Summit Hyperfest 2014
Best lap 1’27.9 (new personal best)
1st place in TTE

The stock swaybars, VERY surprisingly, did little to affect the cornering balance, compared to no front bar and a big 22mm progress rear bar. And i actually went faster than i went before. Car is still neutral at high speeds (the car can carry a drift most of the way through turn 10, see video). I’m very happy with the balance and the turn-in is a little sharper with a front bar. I’d highly recommend 12k / 10k spring rates and stock swaybars for a street driver track/race car as it is streetable, cheap, decently neutral, and easy to drive fast. More aggressive setups MAY yield faster times if you’re an excellent driver, but this setup is safe, fast, comfortable, and doesn’t require crazy dampers.

Overall, the car has been perfoming great and i’m looking forward to the rest of the season!

[video=youtube_share;t5I0J4ou9Dc]http://youtu.be/t5I0J4ou9Dc[/video]

90

In two weekends i cracked two rotors, even running the ITR setup. I also started to disintegrate a DTC-60 pad. Going forward, i’m ditching the OE floating calipers and picking up a fastbrakes 11.6" front kit. This kit uses larger rotors than the type r kit and pairs them with radially mounted, 4 piston wilwood dynapro calipers. I’ll be sticking with the hawk dtc-60 front pads (HB542g.600). These pads are actually much cheaper than the pads for the OE calipers, so in the long run you can save some money.

91

I’m experiencing very high oil temperatures (> 280F). I don’t have a water temperature gauge (i keep an eye on the factory one, but it never moves), but my CRX racing buddy said he was seeing very high water temperatures when running the OEM cooling system. I’m using an aftermarket OE-replacement radiator that has bashed up cooling fins from road debris (bugs, tire clag, sand/pebbles), so that is probably the biggest weak link. I’m looking at aftermarket aluminum racing radiators. I’m also considering running a hood vent/extractor and installing some mesh protection in the front bumper to prevent my next radiator from getting as damaged. I hope to have a solution in place for the next event since it will be the hottest of the year. Stay tuned.

92

Just read through the whole thread. Sweet car! Nice to see it used this way.

You’ll see major improvements in cooling by adding an under panel from the front lip up to about the oil pan. And by also blocking off any holes in the core support that lead from the nose to the engine bay. An air dam won’t hurt either :wink: I saw a drop from 205-215 to 180-195 by doing this but i chopped up the hood at the same time. All of those panels are easy to make with coroplast a few angle brackets and zip ties.

I urge you to reconsider on the 4 piston wilwoods. I`m running a similar calliper and have tapered pad wear because of the even sizing of pistons. The even pressure on the back of the pad combined with mechanical advantage of disc rotation leads to tapered wear. So I’m constantly flipping pads to extend life and see about 4 hours on a set. If you can spring for the 6 piston dynapro you’ll see longer pad life through even wear and larger pad area. The superlites are tops if you can fit them in your wheels. Their pads are massive in comparison.

93

ARGH, thanks for the detailed technical advice! I appreciate your read-through of the thread. I don’t know if the bigger calipers will fit under my wheels so for now i’ll be running the 4 piston dynapro calipers. I was getting good pad life before, and i win pad contingency money that pays for pads (thanks HAWK!), so it’s less of an issue.

What is the principle behind covering the holes in the radiator core support? Just curious as it’s a new idea to me.

[QUOTE=ARGH;2318267]Just read through the whole thread. Sweet car! Nice to see it used this way.

You’ll see major improvements in cooling by adding an under panel from the front lip up to about the oil pan. And by also blocking off any holes in the core support that lead from the nose to the engine bay. An air dam won’t hurt either :wink: I saw a drop from 205-215 to 180-195 by doing this but i chopped up the hood at the same time. All of those panels are easy to make with coroplast a few angle brackets and zip ties.

I urge you to reconsider on the 4 piston wilwoods. I`m running a similar calliper and have tapered pad wear because of the even sizing of pistons. The even pressure on the back of the pad combined with mechanical advantage of disc rotation leads to tapered wear. So I’m constantly flipping pads to extend life and see about 4 hours on a set. If you can spring for the 6 piston dynapro you’ll see longer pad life through even wear and larger pad area. The superlites are tops if you can fit them in your wheels. Their pads are massive in comparison.[/QUOTE]

94

Blocking all the holes and non employed inlets forces all the air to pass through the radiator rather then around it.

95

Basically you want to create a low pressure environment in the engine bay and high pressure ahead of the radiator. You won’t see as much flow through the rad if the bay is packed full of high pressure air so keeping air out should be the first priority. Sealing at the cowl, using an under panel and either blocking holes in the core support or the widest parts of the bumper inlet that don’t lead to the rad core will drop under hood pressure dramatically.

The articles below are a great read.

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_2159/article.html
http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_2160/article.html
http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_2162/article.html

96

Huff puff bad ass ride!
I myself am building a car and def plan on auto crossing in future glad to see I’m not the only one loving the das!

Good driving too watched your vids very impressive

97

[QUOTE=Mnda90;2318587]Huff puff bad ass ride!
I myself am building a car and def plan on auto crossing in future glad to see I’m not the only one loving the das!

Good driving too watched your vids very impressive[/QUOTE]

Thanks man, the DAs are amazing bang for your buck! Very fun and solid cars.

98

NASA SUMMER BREEZE AT SUMMIT POINT
SATURDAY - 1ST PLACE, best lap 1:27:2, 0.7 quicker than previous best
SUNDAY - 1ST PLACE, best lap 1:26:6, another 0.6 quicker than previous best
LAP RECORD for TTE is 1:26:2, so i’m getting close.

SUMMARY OF CHANGES SINCE LAST EVENT

  • Well, the driving is getting better. I’m still coasting too much into turn 3, so i’m going to work on that.
  • I’m using Castrol GTX 10W-40 conventional oil in my transmission. It feels amazing, and worlds better than the pennzoil synchromesh i used for years. I suspect that during sustained track use, the synchromesh thins out and shifter quality degrades to the point of occassional grinds. It doesn’t hurt the castrol GTX is cheap.
  • I’m running a champion cooling radiator and flyin miata hood louvers for cooling. I was only using the OEM water temperature gauge, so i don’t know how much improvement if any was made. My oil temperatures are STILL reaching 280F, so i may get a real oil cooler.
  • I swtiched from the poor mans ITR setup to the fastbrakes 11.6" brake kit with centric high carbon rotors and DTC60 pads. Install was straight forward, pads are super easy to inspect and change out. Brakes held up extremely well, very little pad wear, actually seems pretty even for now. I’m very happy with the kit.

[video=youtube_share;DXfv225b0J8]http://youtu.be/DXfv225b0J8[/video]

99

No updates or a long time. I had set a lap record at VIR, but in the off-season I re-dyno’ed and I was over power (about 4HP). I asked them to remove the record. Since then, I’ve added a restrictor plate and I fine tune with ignition retarding. I jumped on the dyno the other day before the event and down tuned it to 140WHP to stay safely below the 143 WHP I’ve reclassified to.

I couldn’t fine any published data or restrictor plate size vs horsepower change, so if anyone cares, for a typical NA DOHC engine (non-VTEC Honda, BMW E30/E36, Miata), I’ve come up with a decent approximation:

Diameter Ratio = e^(-0.034 * % HP loss required)

where “diameter ratio” is restrictor plate diameter / throttle body inner diameter
and % horsepower loss required should be self-explanatory.

Caveats: This is probably only accurate for % HP loss between 0% and 10%, and only on similar NA engines. This is based on restrictor plate dyno numbers I gathered on the web for spec miatas, GTS cars (E36, E30), and non-vtec Hondas. A throttle body with a significant taper or venturi could throw things off.

So if I have an M3 making 230WHP and I need to lose 20WHP (about 8.7%), you get

DR = e^(-0.034 * 8.7) = 0.744. So 0.744*stock TB diameter gives you your restrictor plate hole size.

This equation is just an approximation! Fine tuning will be required, and YRMV.

[video=youtube_share;L99Z1ersgvo]http://youtu.be/L99Z1ersgvo[/video]

This video was without the restrictor. The car is definitely slower on the straights now, but I’ve been able to offset the loss through driving improvements and better lines.

I’ve also switched from the Nitto NT-01 to the Maxxis RC1, still in 205/50/15. From my telemetry data, the Maxxis are right on par with the Nittos. However, with the Maxxis, I am eligible for awesome contingency; last weekend I took home 4 tires and I had basically just done a few sessions on my first set. The Maxxis RC1 has very stiff sidewalls, so the precision and responsiveness is great. Overall grip and heat tolerance seem great as well. They actually run a little narrowed than the NT01, which I think helps them come up to temperature better in sprint sessions.

I also broke my cheap ebay double bend aluminum shifter after one season. It sheared off right at the base. I’ve since switched to the FastLine Performance (FLP) tall shifter. It looks a bit odd at first, but the feel is great and it puts the shifter right where I want it: next to the steering wheel. It’s also made of steel and is a very strong design. A highly recommended upgrade.

Comparison photo compliments of another owner.

100

Who did the roll bar in your car? Im looking for someone to do one in mine.