I got a pre-fabricated (bent, cut, notched) kit from Jim at RollCageComponents. He has a website, but it may be best to call him at the number listed on his site. I had the main hoop vertical feet pulled in a smidge to clear my brake lines. If you want my exact kit, Jim has the dimensions on record. You may want to extend your rear bars to the rear shock towers or even all the way to the hatch area, but Jim is highly flexible and works with you on measurements if you want something custom.
As far as installation, there’s a local guy (Burtonsville, MD) who does awesome metal work / custom fabrication. He got his start welding chromoly tube chassis. He used a combination of MIG and TIG and did a clean overall job. I can provide his contact information as well.
[QUOTE=hufflepuff;2327571]I got a pre-fabricated (bent, cut, notched) kit from Jim at RollCageComponents. He has a website, but it may be best to call him at the number listed on his site. I had the main hoop vertical feet pulled in a smidge to clear my brake lines. If you want my exact kit, Jim has the dimensions on record. You may want to extend your rear bars to the rear shock towers or even all the way to the hatch area, but Jim is highly flexible and works with you on measurements if you want something custom.
As far as installation, there’s a local guy (Burtonsville, MD) who does awesome metal work / custom fabrication. He got his start welding chromoly tube chassis. He used a combination of MIG and TIG and did a clean overall job. I can provide his contact information as well.[/QUOTE]
Awesome, thanks for the info. Will you be at Summit June 6-7?
It was great meeting you. Thanks again for the ride along. Holy moly you and your car are FAST, I was blown away when that brand new Boss 302 with aero gave you the point by.
No problem man; I’m glad you had a good time! You really looked solid through the corners when my student and I were following; very impressive for your first weekend out. You car was an incredibly clean example of a G2, by the way. :salute:
Like we discussed, rear tire lock-up (especially right rear) is prevalent on G2s. I’ve never had my car corner balanced (it’s on my list), but I suspect my RR corner weight is low, which adds to the tendency to lock that tire under braking. You can try to address this with more aggressive front pads and/or less aggressive rear pads. Perhaps most ideal is an adjustable brake proportioning valve. For now, i’m going to add some height to my RR spring and perhaps run an even less aggressive rear pad.
Since i’m running a dyno reclass that specifies a max WHP, and I don’t have any tuning tools besides ignition timing, I’ve fabricated three different sizes of restrictor plates, which can be swapped in a couple of minutes. The smallest is for the very coldest weather, say March and November. The medium is good most of the year. The largest is for the very hottest of summer. This will ensure I stay safely (at least 3WHP) under the allowable maximum power.
The smallest is shown below. It is 1-3/4" diameter and is the smallest that will still clear the throttle plate without a spacer.
[QUOTE=billabongrob;2328647]Hey hey, any pictures of that shift installed yet? Curious to see the height in comparison to the seating position.
Thanks![/QUOTE]
I don’t have any pictures of the new FLP shifter specifically, but you can see the height and position in my videos. i’ll try to grab a pic when I have it out at the Tirerack/Grassroots Motorsports Ultimate Track Car Challenge. The car’s an underdog, but I think an “ultimate track car” should be more than speed. Few other cars can go as fast, as cheaply and practically, as an Integra!
[QUOTE=TurboG2teg311;2328853]You’re making the trek to VIR? Is it far for you? I was debating on going, but without a truck/trailer I’m a bit nervous of a 5hr 30min drive.
Please post results and some pictures of the event, I am interested.[/QUOTE]
Yeah, I get down to VIR at least 3-4 times a year. VIR is an AMAZING track! Lots of elevation change, lots of challenging corner combinations, very much a driver’s track. After years of driving there, there i’m still learning little tricks.
For me it’s about 4 hours. It’s a bit tedious in a low, stiff, loud, un-insulated racecar, but I wear ear plugs and stop half-way for refreshments. I’ll be sure to get some pictures, especially at the UTCC. In a completely unrestricted challenge, it would be nice to not finish DFL.
Congrats on being in GRM! Looks good! Gives me hope that I’ll be able to go play with the big boys soon. Thanks for representing with this chassis. Not the most common thing you see on track!
Whoa! Congrats for sure! I just leafed through that issue and noticed a DA but hadn’t read it, didn’t realize that was you until now. Way to represent for us G2 owners!
The GRM UTCC was fun, especially sharing the track with some of those ridiculous cars.
I found out at the NASA Nationals a few weeks later that I was down 7HP (!), so that didn’t help. That, and the temperatures that weekend were crazy. I have no doubt that a “non restricted” DA, especially one with VTEC, would’ve been higher on the list, but I was happy with what I brought considering the conditions. Not many of those folks drive to and from the track with everything they need for the weekend.
At NASA Nationals at VIR, with 60 pounds EXTRA ballast, but with the engine re-tuned for around 142WHP, I was able to get back down to the 2:15:8 range, which is still lapping faster than what the old TTE/PTE lap records were, so I was happy with that.
The one lap Andy Hollis CRX was there, and made a good showing for the “classic” Honda crowd! Turns out that a K24-powered CRX is pretty quick.
In case anyone is trying to emulate this setup on a DA for NASA’s PT or TT programs, I have some lessons learned that should help the NEXT guy go even faster:
The GSR tranny is not worth the points, obviously. I got it cheap, and it works great, but those 3 points are better spent elsewhere. Besides, you can get the same performance advantage by switching to a shorter final drive. However, when looking at upshift/downshift points for Summit Point and VIR, the stock tranny would have had significant advantages to offset it’s taller gearing, such as holding a lower gear instead of upshifting and then downshifting with the short ratio tranny.
Hoosiers are faster… obviously. I run the Maxxis RC1, which are great at a regional level, but for national-level competition i’d go with Toyo RR at minimum, or Hoosier R7. The point cost is absurdly low to step up to Hoosiers if the pocket is willing.
The wildwood big brake kit is great. I can go almost a full season on one set of front pads. But I believe they’re heavier (unsprung weight), and absorb horsepower. Going with the cheapest rear pad you can use should help alleviate rear lock-up. Or get a brake proportioning valve.
Points-based build (as opposed to dyno reclass) is probably the way to go if you want to “build” the engine to the maximum allowed specs. This allows you a more advantageous power-to-weight ratio, since Greg isn’t being too nice to DA integras anymore (sorry for that one!).
The TTE national winner ('99 Miata) had Hoosiers and aero. It was as quick as me on the straight-aways, but had ABSURD cornering grip. The '99 Miata seems to be a ringer car in NASA PT/TT, with a good base classing given it’s weight, handling, and power capability. My DA might be faster with aero and a little extra weight, and it would definitely be faster with Hoosiers and a little extra weight. Especially since you can place ballast low and central for better handling.
Given the above, I really didn’t have to gut the car. You can run better tires and better aero at a slightly higher weight, and likely go just as fast.
One of my friends feels that cams would be worth the 6 points in MOST PT/TT builds. The BC cams should be worth 15WHP, but would come in at a 90 pound weight penalty. However,
[QUOTE=hufflepuff;2330309]In case anyone is trying to emulate this setup on a DA for NASA’s PT or TT programs, I have some lessons learned that should help the NEXT guy go even faster:
The GSR tranny is not worth the points, obviously. I got it cheap, and it works great, but those 3 points are better spent elsewhere. Besides, you can get the same performance advantage by switching to a shorter final drive. However, when looking at upshift/downshift points for Summit Point and VIR, the stock tranny would have had significant advantages to offset it’s taller gearing, such as holding a lower gear instead of upshifting and then downshifting with the short ratio tranny.
[/QUOTE]
Thanks for all of that information. I’m actually building a PTE/TTE car at the moment. Mine is an oddball case though, since it started as a GS-R and will by dynoclassed down.
So question, have you ran into a situation where you’ve run out of transmission with the GSR transmission? I’ve got a B20B w/ p8r head on it (hence the need for a dyno reclass) and it probably shouldn’t be revved as high as an LS engine would be. This is my concern at the moment. I’ve primarily driven TWS which is a high speed track. In a 420hp Mustang with 3.3 gearing, I would drop down into 1 at around 135-145. I believe in the spec miata, I was around 118 at the end of the straight. I have a weird feeling that a top speed with the B17 trans and B20 would actually be less than 120, safe rpm limited.
That being said, would it be better to take 3 points to go to an LS transmission? Obviously different tracks would call for different gearing in an ideal world.
