[QUOTE=billabongrob;2330320]Thanks for all of that information. I’m actually building a PTE/TTE car at the moment. Mine is an oddball case though, since it started as a GS-R and will by dynoclassed down.
So question, have you ran into a situation where you’ve run out of transmission with the GSR transmission? I’ve got a B20B w/ p8r head on it (hence the need for a dyno reclass) and it probably shouldn’t be revved as high as an LS engine would be. This is my concern at the moment. I’ve primarily driven TWS which is a high speed track. In a 420hp Mustang with 3.3 gearing, I would drop down into 1 at around 135-145. I believe in the spec miata, I was around 118 at the end of the straight. I have a weird feeling that a top speed with the B17 trans and B20 would actually be less than 120, safe rpm limited.
That being said, would it be better to take 3 points to go to an LS transmission? Obviously different tracks would call for different gearing in an ideal world.[/QUOTE]
I’ve got the stock rev limiter, seems to kick in around 7000 rpms. back before they ballasted me, in cold weather (good HP), I could sometimes bump the rev limiter in 5th gear at VIR. Now, that hasn’t been happening.
[QUOTE=hufflepuff;2330309]In case anyone is trying to emulate this setup on a DA for NASA’s PT or TT programs, I have some lessons learned that should help the NEXT guy go even faster:
The GSR tranny is not worth the points, obviously. I got it cheap, and it works great, but those 3 points are better spent elsewhere. Besides, you can get the same performance advantage by switching to a shorter final drive. However, when looking at upshift/downshift points for Summit Point and VIR, the stock tranny would have had significant advantages to offset it’s taller gearing, such as holding a lower gear instead of upshifting and then downshifting with the short ratio tranny.
Hoosiers are faster… obviously. I run the Maxxis RC1, which are great at a regional level, but for national-level competition i’d go with Toyo RR at minimum, or Hoosier R7. The point cost is absurdly low to step up to Hoosiers if the pocket is willing.
The wildwood big brake kit is great. I can go almost a full season on one set of front pads. But I believe they’re heavier (unsprung weight), and absorb horsepower. Going with the cheapest rear pad you can use should help alleviate rear lock-up. Or get a brake proportioning valve.
Points-based build (as opposed to dyno reclass) is probably the way to go if you want to “build” the engine to the maximum allowed specs. This allows you a more advantageous power-to-weight ratio, since Greg isn’t being too nice to DA integras anymore (sorry for that one!).
The TTE national winner ('99 Miata) had Hoosiers and aero. It was as quick as me on the straight-aways, but had ABSURD cornering grip. The '99 Miata seems to be a ringer car in NASA PT/TT, with a good base classing given it’s weight, handling, and power capability. My DA might be faster with aero and a little extra weight, and it would definitely be faster with Hoosiers and a little extra weight. Especially since you can place ballast low and central for better handling.
Given the above, I really didn’t have to gut the car. You can run better tires and better aero at a slightly higher weight, and likely go just as fast.
One of my friends feels that cams would be worth the 6 points in MOST PT/TT builds. The BC cams should be worth 15WHP, but would come in at a 90 pound weight penalty. However,
I’ll add some things I’ve learned from the last 10 seasons of w2w/TT in NASA in different cars.
If nothing else get the best tires you can afford points for, Hoosier Hoosier Hoosier.
Unless you have a BMW, dyno reclass isn’t usually worth it… don’t get me started on BMW’s in TT.
DATA logging is a must in TT, it lets you know where you are losing/making up time, if your tires have fallen off, where to be smoother, where to get on the throttle/brake/ turn in, etc. TrackMate is what I use in conjunction with video overlay using RaceRender computer software/ Trackaddict phone app.
Spend points wisely, for example I’m not bothering with any aftermarket suspension A-arms on the integra because they aren’t worth the points, my camber is about where I need it and poly bushings don’t cost me anything. Aero is probably the last thing you should do points wise.
Your shocks are either right or wrong… do you need to dyno your shocks? not necessarily but don’t skimp here. Koni yellow is the cheapest I would go here (that’s what I did on my integra which is an extreme budget build. )
look for free points to improve performance. example would be, corner balance, battery relocation, poly bushings, top hats. strut bars.
Get a driving coach, everyone is braking too much, too early, not using the whole track, getting on the throttle too late. There is so much to learn! I’ve been doing this for a long time and raced with some very talented people and I still have so much I could improve on.
Always be humble and learn from others and yourself. Find out who is fast (drivers, not cars) and find out why.
So Grassroots Motorsports is having a “reader’s choice” voting event for the coolest Ultimate Track Car. Since i competed this year in the UTCC, my car is among those in the list. If you want to give a shout out in support of G2 Integra’s, the voting is linked below:
[QUOTE=hufflepuff;2331166]So Grassroots Motorsports is having a “reader’s choice” voting event for the coolest Ultimate Track Car. Since i competed this year in the UTCC, my car is among those in the list. If you want to give a shout out in support of G2 Integra’s, the voting is linked below:
Had a great run, broke a lap record, had a perfect season, podiumed nationally,and learned more than i ever hoped about racing and myself. Hoping for it to go to a good home where it will be well-loved and driven hard!
Having done 45 minute sprint races, in full race suit, in 100 degree weather, I dont blame him for the Tee! You don’t know thirsty until you are sitting in impound, after a race, baking in your stripped-out car, waiting to be weighed to see if you did the math right on how much fuel you burnt.
