I finally got all the kinks and errors worked out of my b20b swap and it runs flawless. However from time to time when i go to start it, it will start up then instantly die about 2-3 times, then the next try it fires right up and runs fine. The check engine light pops on when it’s doing this and it throws a crankshaft position sensor code. Where exactly is that sensor located as I’ve read numerous things about it. Some say its behind the crankshaft pulley which i believe is something totally different, and some say it’s built into the distributor, if that’s the case is it replacement like the icm or do i have to replace the entire distributor? Someone else told me the easiest option to fix this problem would be getting a chipped ecu and having that sensor disabled, however the closest place around here that will chip an ecu and tune it is about a 1 1/2 - 2 hour drive and charges a ton. With me being a bit short on cash for right now that’s not really an option. Thanks in advance for any help as it’s getting VERY annoying having to wait several minutes trying to start the car before i can take off…VERY embarrassing when you’re on a date and it decides to act up 
now I am not 100% certain, but if it is the sensor in the Distributor, you need a new distributor.
This information is coming from a friend of mine that is a ASE mechanic, and also former G2 owner. I have been having issues with my 91 GS not wanting to start and have replaced everything trying to track it down. at this point I ordered a new Distributor off ebay for 85 bucks and am hoping this is the soultion… a new coil did not work, new cap, rotor plug wires… and check off every cheaper part in ignition system did not solve my issue… so next step is a new distributor as that sensor is built into it and non-replaceable.
Again, This is second hand info I am following from a certified mechanic, but may not be 100% accurate.
when you do start is the start rough, and sometimes blowing smoke from unburned fuel? Is it more frequent when the car is warmed up? these are some of my symptoms I have seen that occur intermittently in my issues… Granted I am working with a B18A1, but a honda motor is a honda motor is a honda motor in most respects.
When my car would start and die instantly…it was the ignition switch. Obviously I was not throwing a code like you are, but maybe it’s unrelated. Just my 2cents.
yea my issue is only when the car has been warmed up to operating temps, and I get no codes either… so I am shooting at fleas in the dark lol
That’s when mine would do it, could be the ignition switch if it starts then dies right away. If you car will not start at all after reaching operating temp, could be your main relay also. That’s one symptom of that. You can pull it out and look at the solder joints. That will tell you really quick if it’s any good or not.
yea checked main relay… don’t htink that is it, but is next on the parts list for next payday lol.
i dont know if you fixed your problem yet but i ran into this i have a b20 still running the obd0. and my coil burned out in the distributor i switched over to a msd cap and a blaster 2 coil and its been a lot better .
First off a chipped ECU will not let you diable the CPS. at least not to my knowledge. The CPS is in the distributor. you can still buy distributor housing from the dealer but if you looking for a cheaper option. you could try this.
http://forums.g2ic.com/showthread.php?164955-CEL-Code-9-D-I-Y-fix&highlight=DIY+code+fix
your better off buying a new one though in my opinion.
Holly batman, I just relized the date of the op’s post :doh: