Hi.
I have another odd/loser/newbie question. When I am timing the 93 ls, I jump the service connector thing. My CEL stays on (even after the fuel ‘hum noise’), no blinks, just a solid light. Is that supposed to happen? Does the CEL stay on for timing? Or is that a code 0?
If feels like the car is adjusting my timing adjustments even with the connector jumped. I am going to reset the ECU and then try to re-time the car. I just rebuilt the motor recently and was wondering if the ECU doesn’t understand that it runs better. All parts used rebuilding were OEM.
The 2 problems I have (maybe off topic maybe but I need help):
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After driving and getting the car and transmission warm, base idle is 1k. When I push in the clutch, idle drops to 250 rpm or dies. No CEL just the oil and battery lights. Suggestions?
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When driving, at 3k+ rpms the tachometer begins to jump all over the place. It will go from 3k—> 5k----->3k. I pulled the ignitor and it was some no name brand. I replaced with a GP but there isn’t much change. (Idles smoother). I think this is timing and well… I am having issues with that.
Thanks in advance. Sorry to write a novel.
fixed some
Ok. The CEL should stay on if you jump the connector and there is no problems. A code 0 is when there is no CEL (no CEL even for 2 sec after the key is turned).
I re-set the ECU and found the ECU fuse was blown. I re-set it with a new fuse and I was able to time the car with ease. It fixed the idle problem when timed.
I am so glad to have a semi-functioning car again. (I do have some issue with the car stalling when the headlights are turned on. Alternator probably.) Will check that in the morning and all vacuum connections.
Fixed!
Due to the frequency of the problems. I decided to take apart everything that is ignition and timing related and find the problem.
- My cam gears were off by 180 degrees. At TDC the up arrows were pointing down. After much profanity, I adjusted the cams.
Tip: Get a long screwdriver and check the TDC and crank by turning the crank pulley nut and watch the screwdriver (long, skinny screwdriver. Make sure it can’t fall in!) inserted in the #1 cylinder through the spark plug hole. There is a cap that can be pulled off of the timing belt cover to access the timing belt tensioner bolt. My Chilton manual doesn’t really tell you this. It makes it seem like you have to take off all kinds of stuff. You can then loosen tension on the timing belt. The slack will be on the firewall side. Now rotate the crank so the piston goes down about half way. Rotate the cam gears to the right location with the slack of the timing belt. I made sure the radiator side of the belt never changed. then move the crank back to TDC. Align everything, set the belt tight across the cam gears, and tighten the timing belt adjustment bolt.
- After doing that my car idled smoother but still had the eratic tachometer at 4k RPM’s regardless of gear as well as a floating base idle. I followed the teg tip again for the bouncing tach and found that one of the connectors (the red one) on the ignitor unit was off. I got some electric grease and put it back on super tight. Repeated with the rest of those connectors. What a difference! The car now rips through the gears like it should.
Moral of the story: Follow those Teg Tips first. They have helped me tons as well as these forums.