That is soooo confusing to me. Who wants to help me do it.
I have a dumb question? but oh well to recharge my ac do i hook up the r-12 to the knob right above my fans thanks for any help you guys cn give me.
Yes, the low side port is the one right above the fans on the front of the engine. The hose will not fit on the high side port, which is near the battery.
oh ok thanks man i wasnt really sure which one to hook up the recharge kit to
my system hasn’t been working for a little over a year, and a friend of the family’s (mechanic for the city utility vehicles) says he does the conversions quite often for friends and such.
he told me to buy a new dryer (evaporator?) and come back and see him and we’ll switch it over. just something to throw out there, maybe our evaporators should be changed out along with the conversion of new fittings ect. could help in longevity of the new style.
Sory for bringing up an old topic but I have a question…
Well I myself am looking into doing this. My air conditining system was working, yes working last summer fine. I parked my car for the winter and just got it back out today and sure enough the A/C is not working, makes me mad casue i wanted it to work for a trip I am taking the car on next week but it looks like it may not be. Now I did test to see if the compressor was turning on when I pressed the a/c button on the dash, and it does as my engine rpms change. I was just wondering will the recharg kit on the site said above work or do I need to also order the oil? Or is there any sort of replacement that acts the same as the R12 refrigerant that I would not need to worry about converting over to the R134a?
Ah I just found it, Freeze-12, Has anyone ever used this product before? ANd do you haveto be a professional A/C guy to do this?
i was wondering the same because my compressor doesnt turn on when i turn the a/c on or my fan wont come on now either ever since i changed my radiator
me too, my ac blows hot air damn! how much has it been for a shop to do the conversion as well?
freeze 12 works fine… i got it in my car right now… my a/c just doesnt work due to wiring issues now
Ok my freeze 12 recharge kit came today and here is what it has:
(3) 12oz. cans of Freeze 12,
(1) 4 oz. can of oil charge-ester oil,
(1) 4 oz. can of Leak stop
(1) Freon test gauge that will work on R12 & R134a systems.
(1) Pocket Thermometer, range: 0 to 220 F.
Now I was wondering since my system was working fine before i parked the car for the winter would I be able to just use 2 canse of the Freeze12 freon and not haveo use the oil charge or the stop leak?
If not how would i go about using the stop leak and the oil charge?
Thanks!
stop leak
:jerkoff:
odds are its a o-ring… if not its something major and stopleak wont really do much help
previous owner of my car used stopleak… all it acheved doing was stopping up the whole system (expansion valve was deff stopped up)
i dont think that stopleak is made for expansion valve systems… specialy lower presure ones like our cars… vs american cars with orfice tubes and higher presure expansion valves
Nah haha it was a bad fuse not making contact in my fuse pannel, my A/C works fine now. Grr and I bourhg the Freeze 12 kit and everything! Ah well.
another happy es-12 convert here. Charged by weight into an empty system on my teg about 4 years ago and the A/C has worked fine (and very cold)ever since. :dance:
Ok, the guy I spoke to at autorefrigerants.com said I don’t have to evacuate all of the old R12, however right on the can of ES-12 is says to evacuate all of the old refrigerant…wtf? So, let me ask, should you get rid of all of the old refrigerant before charging the system with ES-12a?
you dont have to, but if you are charging by weight then you have no way of telling how much is in the system if you dont evac it first. If your a/c doesnt work at all right now it may not have any r-12 in it at all. Mine was totally empty when I charged up.
I just replaced my compressor clutch, and never opened up system from earlier collapse. Bought Envirosafe ES-12a, R-12 Quick Charge Kit, followed directions, but only added 2, 5oz. cans, and neither changed, nor vacuumed any part of system, and my 92 is running cold as F**K !, at 40F. Don’t know if orig. system was that cold or not, but it hasn’t been charged, evac’d., or changed before this clutch replacement, since I got my 92 Teg in '99. It’s all good. The Envirosafe was very easy, and low-risk. Just follow directions on can, and perhaps any manual, and you’ll be fine. Here’s what I did:
- I knew my system wasn’t coming on due to low pressure.
- Start car, A/C on cold, A/C button depressed, fan high, let idle 5 min.
- Using EnviroSafe’s charge hose, with needle on can fitting completely
recessed, I screwed the can fitting (the one nearest to the
adjustment handle), onto a can which I held, but didn’t need to, with
a moist rag. I felt safer, anyway. - Then turn valve handle down to pierce the can, and tighten it down
completely. - Then I screwed R-12 low side adapter fitting of hose end onto the low
pressure side of A/C system. The one kind of in front, and to the left
of the radiator cap. It’s the one on the larger aluminum pipe instead
of the thin copper one in my case. - Then, holding the EnviroSafe can upside down, as req’d., I unscrewed
the can adapter valve, letting refrigerant flow into system. I wasn’t
ready for it, and when my clutch kicked in 2-3 sec. later, it made me
jump, but that was the only alarming thing at all. The can didn’t even
get cold. Let can completely drain for about 2 min. Then unscrew
hose end from car, and valve from can. - Check A/C temp. at vents. Maybe get it cruising to check non-traffic
temp. Or check pressure with proper gauge while running.
If not very cold, or better yet, low pressure in system, you could add
another 2nd can the same way. Just don’t overfill.
So if not sure (my system was dead and non-pressured, so I figured 2
cans at least. Now I think I’m @ 42 psi. on the low side, and I’m not
adding anymore, unless cooling drops considerably.), get pressure
tester… - For some reason, all this talk about “high pressure side” got me worried,
and I kept picturing a can rupturing in my hand during fill. The worry
was good, I found and used correct inlet port, and it was over in less
than 10 min. I watched a friend bang on a frozen valve on a forklift
propane tank some time ago, and he won’t do THAT again. Good thing
he was wearing glasses. Just don’t hook up to the high side port,
the adapters shouldn’t let you anyway. Piece of pie!
Corrections, anyone?
basically the same thing I did. Thats why es-12 is so great, just drop in and it gets super cold.
For future reference, the website for Enviro-Safe refrigerants is http://www.es-refrigerants.com
prices are slightly better than autorefrigerants.com - $5 per can of refrigerant
How cold is cold in your TEGs guy’s? :nobody: I’ll show pics later if anyone wants to see.
:whew:
OEM R-12 FREON is the Best…with the A/C on, I can keep ICE CREAM in the car.:bowdown:
It’ll stay cold all day if I keep fuel in the tank. In city putting around town I set it at notch #3 for a little while and then down to notch #2, and on Freeways it stays at notch #1. It’s too coolllddd at full blast - I keep an extra jacket with a bennie that has ear muffs to stay warm. It’s not worth setting it at full blast - to cold, you can see the picture right? I’m going to buy gloves next…:manual: