just retrofitted my 91 teg and noticed it was leaking from pressure switch, checked and it was loose, changed all o-rings, now my compressor is not working i checked compressor by by passing all connections and directly giving it 12 v from battery(it works), look in haynes manual wiring dagram and i am all good until i get to "ecm"from there it leads to ac pressure switch to ac therm switch and ac diode and finally ac switch in car has anyone come across this problem thanx(btw almost forgot to add both radiator & condensor fan turn on )
The diode pack is why both the condenser and rad fan come on when A/C is turned on.
Have you “jumped” the A/C pressure switch plug?
Start car turn A/C on high, turn blower motor on high press recirculate button, unplug pressure switch and jump the leads in the plug.
Does compressor turn on?
94
yes it does i got 2 turn on applying 12v directly 2 it(just 2 c if it works) yes i also jumped pressure switch, problem, is everything turns on as a/c is on both fans increase in rpm but no compressor
OK then, have you tried triggering the A/C Compressor Relay directly, make sure you have 12V+ on the black/yellow going to relay and the white, then supply a ground to the yellow lead, does compressor turn on? 94
no it does not, relay works, but no compressor activation, compressor works under direct contact w/ battery voltage
What do you mean the relay works?
It works because you hear it click?
It works because you tested for 12V+ on the red lead coming from the relay?
The red output lead from the A/C Compressor Clutch Relay goes directly to the compressor, if you get 12V+ on it when a ground is supplied to the yellow lead, the compressor will come on, if not there is a brake in the red lead between the relay and the compressor.
Triggering the relay would be the same as supplying 12V+ directly to the compressor, so the clutch should engage, if not, it has to a brake in the connection or a bad relay.:whisper: 94
u got a point, the relay clicks, but i will check the voltage coming thru relay,then red wire going 2 compressor, keep u posted thanx. btw relays r new.
ok i checked it out, relay works, applied 12v to output from relay to compressor and it works, not getting ground to activate relay but there are 2 pts on relay where i got 12v from(black/white, white) so now its on to check that ground is coming from. wiring diagram on integra states that from there it lead to “ecm” to ac diode to thermostat to ac pressure switch but since condensor fan works ac pressure,thermostat, should be good problem looks like it lies with ac diode and “ecm” right?
Compressor relay is controlled by the the ECM, supplies a ground to relay coil, [yellow lead] so may guess would also be the ECM.
Now I know that on some cars that the ECM controls the A/C, the A/C output has to be turned on, is it a new or replaced ECM?
The other possibility is to bypass the ECM, disconnect the yellow, [A/C compressor relay] and the blue/red, [A/C thermostat] at the ECM and connect them together.
If the condenser fan works, it’s a good bet both the A/C pressure switch, A/C thermostat and A/C diode pack are good, BTW both the rad fan and A/C condenser fans should come on when A/C is turned on.
To test, run a "jumper lead from the red/blue or blue at the condenser relay to the yellow at the A/C compressor clutch relay, if compressor comes on and both condenser and rad fans come on, you have a working A/C system,
remember both the fans must come on, when compressor is on, or head pressure will go up very quickly to over 250PSI, and you will “pop” something and spew 134a all over the place, do you have a set of gauges?:stare:94
it is the same ecm that came w/ car i bought over 3 yrs ago, yes both radiator & condensor fan do turn on ac button is on, btw i have a gauge that came w/ my recharge kit it lets me know if psi is good if thats what u mean ill keep u posted thanx
bypassed ecm, compressor is on!! thanx:clap:
OIC, you used a DIY retrofit kit:stare:
Did you replace the dryer/filter?
Did you replace the orifice valve?
Did you replace the ALL the “O” rings?
Please tell me you used pure 134a refrigerant, nor Duracool or RedTech, or anything with propane, [or any other hydrocarbon or sealers] in it.
No I meant a real set of A/C gauges, so you can check cycling and head pressure.
One more thing, do you have A/C, how cold is the air coming from the vents?:hmm:94
i used a retrofit kit from walmart and im using 134a by interdynamic i believe, i replaced orings on pressure switch, reciever drier, evaporator i know there r some more im hoping i wont need to change more of them, go to get system vacuum soon and recharged but i wanted to make sure the compressor problem was taken care of & not have to pay to vacuum and recharge more than i have 2, ill just use the uv leak detector to double ckeck b4 i get that done (temp— i didnt check, but it was colder than ambient temp “much colder”)
If you are going to a shop to have it recharged, have them do a nitrogen pressure test.
By your discription of the WallMart kit, You did not replace the dryer/filter, or the orifice valve, if they are not replaced there will always be a %age of R12 in the system, however most shops will recover R12 contaminated 134a, [we use a set of contaminated gauges] it may cost you, also, all “O” rings should be replaced, it will be at the one you didn’t replace that leaks.
If I under stand you, you installed a retrofit kit, dumped a can of 134a into the system so you could check it, [I assume the can of 134a had the UV dye in it???] did the UV light and glasses come with the kit?
You are sure there are no hydrocarbons or sealers in the can, [I am not familiar with “interdynamic”]:stare:
Any car that comes to our shop will have an identifier connected to the A/C system before a set of gauges are connected to the service ports, if it comes up FAIL Hydrocarbon there is nothing we can do can do for the customer, short of replacing everything.:sipread:
We will not even recover the hydrocarbon contaminated 134a, it is a hazardous waste, of no use and costs money to dispose of, unlike 134a, that can be “processed” and reused.:whisper:94
i didnt know there were filters inside drier that can be change, i thought it just 1 unit, i do know that 134a that i used had “leak sealer” not sure if thats what ur talking about. do u know how many orings i can encounter? also btw the leaker detector i used is different dosent use uv it leaks a red dye from location of leak. i thought i had a uv found out later it was something else
The “drier” is the filter, also called a receiver, about $30.
The orifice valve is somewhere in the liquid line, there will be a “crimp” in the line about 3" from a connection, the valve is pushed up to the crimp, on some cars it is integrated with the liquid line and that section of line would need to be replaced.
there will be “0” rings any place there is a connections, the manifold connection at the compressor may have “gaskets”.
250PSI of nitrogen and a spray bottle of soapy water will find anything but a tiny pin-hole leak.
The A/C shop should put nitrogen into the system, [250PSI] and close the gauge valves and wait for 15-20 min. to see if pressure drops, if not then they will put it on the pump for about an hour, close the gauge valves again, and remove the pump and connect up the recharge cylinder, set the recharge amount, and before opening the high side valve, check to see if any vacuum has been lost, if not they will recharge to 90% of R12 refrigerant level, with 134a.
Yes I mean leak sealers, nasty stuff, will gum up the works, but what you need to worry about is hydrocarbons, like propane.:stare: 94
jast as i thought everything was going smooth the leak detector i used with the red dye found a leak @ the pressure switch so i disconnect the switch from plug and then jumped the plug to start the a/c process and i noticed it is not leaking from line but from the plug itself, looks like between the prongs it that possible??? thers a small hole there that has a small flathead screw in there but there was definately some red dye in there anyway its a special order from the autoparts store gotta wait now it takes 3-5 days
Yes it is possible, and common, for the pressure switch to leak, the “set screw” is probably for adjustment, not sure is pressure switch port has a schrader valve in it, [in a g2] allowing the removal without a recovery, you will need a new one, when installing do not over-tighten, barely hand tight, do not use wrench.
The switch should be in stock at any Cooling Depot retailer.:whisper: 94
dont have any of those here only autozone had it or from a dealer hopefully thats it
The autozone part is probably a Cooling Depot, [brand name] part.:shrug:94