so instead of the hole in a single piece bushings do a notch on the 2 bushings where the hole for the zerk is like this: | [ ] | but only in one spot not all the way around because you are just trying to get the grease to the sleeve, correct
Also, can you please answer my question:
<And for the rear tow arm bushings (compensator arms), why not use the kit prothane already makes for it, 8.309 ?>
thanks for this. looks like you took a lot of your time to post this up. this should be archived.
JDM1nt2B : After having the first set completely wear out the way it did I would have to recommend everyone R&R (remove and reinstall) their polys every 6 months or 7,500 miles or so,so as to have them last a long time and most importantly be 100% functional.
mytegyteg : Thats right. You only need to notch the bushings in the area where the zerk fitting will be. The mounting area of the zerks will usually be deep enough for the fitting to hold the poly bushing in place and prevent them from moving. Then again the poly bushing shouldn’t be rotation anyways since the grease will lube the sleeve and keep it mobile. If the poly bushing were notched so the entire width were reduced the complete arm will shift fore-and -aft which will definitely not be good.
1sickGS : I here you man but I’m not a moderator and quite frankly don’t have the time or the patience. I enjoy posting valuable info and along the ways learning a thing or two. It seems to me that a lot of forums and message boards are simply turning into private businesses. I’m glad G2IC remains open to whoever but the same used to be for Supraforums but lately it has turned into a private business. You still gain a wealth of knowledge but a few members like myself are now walking carefully to avoid stepping onto vendors toes. What used to be for the community has turned into a business. Hopefully it remains this way. As long as the vendors keep their end of their business profitable, I’m predicting there should be smooth sailing. Its when guys emphasize on ebay generic products as their back bone for their part supplies that destroys the entire network that so many have tried to establish. I’ll be the first to mention that I’m ashamed to say that the poly bushings I’ve purchased weren’t from a g2ic vendor. I bought them from summit racing. If the evndors carry them on their sites for a few bucks more I don’t have any problem purchasing from them. However, they don’t and I’ve purchased about 5 digits worth of stuff from summit for my own and my customers cars. I get the stuff very quickly but I do feel guilty like as though I’m supporting someone as large as Walmart and reducing the chance of smaller business from moving up.
Carchitect, when drilling the various pieces, did you drill the holes while some of the pieces were on the body, or did you mark, remove and then drill? Now that you have the new setup, have you had a chance to disassemble and check any wear on the bushings? Also, you said that you used silicone grease, I have found some grease but it is silicone-moly grease. Would this work?
squidly_…: I won’t need to take apart the suspension any more. That was the main reason for the bushings and zerk install. The grease they supply will remain in the bushing longer since it is so much thicker than the 3M silicone paste. I elected not to use the poly-lube grease since it is so thick , IMO, it creates more friction. the grease I used is this stuff:
Super informative thread!
Awesome job! I’d like to know more about the mods to the ITR front knuckle. Was it your special bending procedure or something else? I’m doing an ITR/DC2 damper/spring upgrade along with the LCA’s to match etc… I’d really like to do a five lug ITR conversion but would rather not have to machine the hubs to fit the DA knuckle if I can avoid it.
carchitect i was gonna email u but it isnt listed
with ur settings
doesnt more rear camber induce understeer?
Does anyone have a copy of the pics from carchitect’s post #16 on page 1?
Carchitect- can you email me these pics from the first page i am interested in doing this after reading a year ago.
email - chris21012@gmail.com
operator you are the fucking man!!!
I try. 
amazing writeup man… i got whole slew of suspension problems with my DA, this is a start!!! AWESOME:rockon:
^^ +1 Awesome write up and awesome job! Shits going to help me out a lot once I tear my suspension apart! :rockon:
Not quite sure of how to notch the bushings… I am a visual learner and need a pic of how its done… HELP
I had them saved on my comp. I emailed them to you ^
I need a pic of how he notched the bushings to let the grease through… I have a idea but dont want to ruin a good set of bushings…
yeah i want to see how he notched them too
anyone else add fittings to theres?
Nope, and no pictures either, but I believe he was referring to making a cut the length of the bushing where the bolt would be, maybe 2 or more with channels connecting them (small ones) then drill a hole that went from one of the cuts to the outside of the bushing connected to a zerk. I have seen this done before, but I unfortunately do not have any pictures of how its done, or how to do it, other than what is already shown in this thread.
Here is a link to someone doing something similar to a Chevy Truck. But he does not cut channels in his, just drills a hole to the bolt hole. Its better than nothing, I guess.