Has anyone tried this? What are the problems(like camber and toe)? Would i have to use dc2 suspension if it was possible? Any input from knowledgeable people would be great im not looking for here say. Like my buddy tried this but im not really sure is not something im looking for. Just want real facts and pics would be great! Thanks guys
i’ve got 96 itr knuckles on my DA. the DC2 knuckles give you a lot of positive camber. just have to use a camber kit that allows for negative adjustment.
If you haven’t read this article, you will probably find it informative. I could have sworn I saw a repost of it on another forum recently where the pictures were still available, but cant’ seem to locate it. A lot of what was in the pictures can be inferred though.
Welfare are the knuckles the same or drastically different between reg. and ITR? What shock fork did you use? Im asking because i dont really have money to throw around on stuff that might work. I got to many other things i have to buy. Im trying to use 36mm swap hubs and those are plenty already. Are you running a camber kit up front? And if so do you have any room to work with or is the kit maxed out? Also do you know the I.D. Of the wheel bearing is it 43mm by any chance? All the info you can give me woild be greatly appreciated as i dont just want to throw money away.
Buymysoul thanks, but i did read that i have it in mu subscriptions but like i said no here say and there is a lot of that. The first couple pages are good but then its usually just a bunch of talk after that. And theres other cars put in the mix which just gets plain confusing. I am just lookin for straight up facts from people running it themselves that why i made this thread. I want just DA/DC knuckle info. This is for a K-swap and it might make it easier on the next guy. Rather then reading through ten pages and still having a “well it might work”.
Both the regular G3 (with ABS) and the ITR have identical front knuckle arm part numbers. This is easily verifiable with Honda/Acura part numbers. You will have to be careful with your pronouns, it is hard to figure out which parts you are asking about.
NTN is the OEM manufacturer of the wheel bearing for the G3 Integra. You can easily find that the inside diameter of that bearing is 43mm, the outer diameter is 79mm and the width is 41mm. I wouldn’t call this hearsay, I would call this good fact finding, but you have obviously done that already.
Dammit. I’m sorry. That article I linked to didn’t have the information in it that I thought it did. I always search for that damn thing and it never has the info I want. I also didn’t mean to link randomly to the middle of it as I thought the pertinent info was in the initial post which was based on personal experience with photographic evidence. My bad.
Anyway,
THIS is the article I was thinking of:
http://www.ff-squad.com/technet/how-to/5lug.ef-da/
I would think the best and cheapest way to do what you want would be to take your new hubs and have the outer diameter machined down to be the same I.D. of your stock hubs so you could retain the stock suspension geometry. It doesn’t really matter what the actual inner diameter is as long as your machine shop can turn the new one to be damn close to your stock one and the bearing fits properly. If you don’t already have DC parts, that would be the cheapest way to do things. Since Welfare already had the hubs in those knuckles, it would have cost more for him to use his DA knuckles. Since you will need new wheel bearings anyway, it seems to me that you would want to do as the article I linked to in this post suggested and just turn down the hubs. Since they also come in a 38mm version, you know that shaving off a mm or 2 won’t be an issue with the 43mm version ones you (I assume) already purchased.
Yea thanks for the info. I did research all that. i was talking with karcepts and they said basically the same thing. I was teetering either way machining the knuckle or the hub. Im going the hub route. But for other peoples reference if they try and go the swap hub route, there is a difference between fitting in the bearing and a press fit in the bearing.
yea, i just really didn’t wanna go the machining route. i probably will though. either the dc2 knuckles are slightly taller or it’s the fact that you have to add negative camber that makes them hit the strut towers every so often if you’re relatively lowered