Ok, I’ve searched a bit both here and on honda-tech and some other sites, and I can’t find exactly what I’m wondering. Will my stock 1990 fuel rail work with my skunk2 intake manifold? Reading a few posts and sites, I’m lead to believe I need a 94+ fuel rail (I’ll probably go aftermarket due to lack of availability of parts around where I live), but I’m not 100% sure on this since I couldn’t find many people installing them on b18a’s, mainly b18c’s and b16’s. Anyone know for sure if I need a new fuel rail? I found a couple posts here, one saying you did need a new fuel rail, and one that questioned it. I’m guessing from the reading I did that the biggest problem lies with the location of the stock fpr interfering with a connection on the skunk2 manifold since the skunk2 manifold has shorter runners, creating less space between the rail and manifold.
Also, are there any differences between fuel rails other than reg location? Like are any of them using different sized seals for injectors or have slightly different injector spacing or anything? I’m planning on swapping manifolds when I do my tranny swap (figure it might be easier then), and I’m partly wondering if I’ll need to get different injector seals or anything for a 94+ rail for use with my stock injectors. Thanks!
I have a skunk2 im on my b18a (91). the stock fuel rail will not work becuase of the fpr location. i’m using a fuel rail from a civic si and it works fine. I believe you just have to find one from a bseries engine where the fpr is mounted all the way on the driver’s side of the rail otherwise like you said it will get in the way of one of the sensors because of the different geometry of the skunk2. Here’s some pictures that should be helpful:
Here’s the old fuel rail.
Here you can see the difference in fpr location on the si fuel rail
Remember, you can always get an aftermarket fuel rail if you think you may eventually want or need one.
Here goes the list:
block cleaned, bored/honed, decked
oversize pr3 pistons (10.8:1 CR)
shotpeened rods & arp rod bolts
clevite bearings all around
all new gaskets/seals/water pump/timing belt
micropolished crank
dynamically balanced
reconditioned head (slightly milled)
crower 403’s and spring/retainer kit
skunk2 cam gears
skunk2 intake manifold
civic si fuel rail
b&m fpr and gauge
aem cai
dc header
greddy catback exhaust (mx i think)
I’m lowered on gr-2s and eibach pros, also have a chipped ecu.
The rebuilt engine now has 1030 miles on it. Time to go get a leak-down test to see how well the rings sealed and get this baby tuned! I’ve done other stuff too besides engine mods like one pieces, custom grill, painted mirrors and moldings, painted interior, indiglo gauges. Haven’t put any pics up in general discussion yet. I think I may just to see what everyone thinks.
NICE! Sounds somewhat similar to my current setup aside from the internal work. I’m running
62403’s/springs/retainers
skunk2 cam gears
b&m fpr
short ram intake
airmass header
carsound cat
2.5" custom mandrel bent exhaust
MSD digital 6/cap/blaster 3 coil/wires
I have some suspension stuff done as well, and will be doing more engine/drivetrain stuff shortly when I swap my crappy auto to a manual, I’m just waiting on a manual tranny to get here to do the swap (have everything else). I’m planning to boost mine eventually (hence the 2.5" exhaust, etc), but I wanna get the tranny swapped first (shifting at 3000rpm all the time sucks). Looks like you have a very sweet N/A setup going so far very cool
i can’t quite tell from your pictures, but is the fast idle control valve attached to the intake mani (cylindrical thing directly below the throttle body) like on the original g2 mani?
Reason i ask is its attached to the bottom of my crv TB, not to the manifold, so i couldn’t use my bored '90 tb with the crv mani installed.
I believe that all skunk2 ls mani’s are all the same and i’m not sure if the g3 configuration is the same as the g2 or the crv (low rise) mani’s.
Did you notice any port sized difference btw the skunk2 mani and your old ls one?
Originally posted by spikius Will my stock 1990 fuel rail work with my skunk2 intake manifold? Tenzoteg92 is using his stock LS FPR and fuel rail with his Skunk2 intake mani on his built LS head.
I think it may be possible to use the ls fuel rail and fpr, but if I remember correctly you’d have to bend the part on the bottom of the fpr so that it won’t get in the way. daver, the skunk2 im doesn’t have a place for the fast idle thermo valve so we couldn’t use it. I haven’t had any problems starting up on cold mornings…yet. Because we couldn’t use the fast idle thermo valve, we had to route some coolant lines directly to where they would have gone if we did use it. You could probably use that bored tb and just bypass the fast idle thermo valve if you wanted too. I’m not very familiar with the b20 though, so i could be wrong. Also, we couldn’t use the bracket that goes from the intake manifold to the block. We also had to drill a new whole in the throttle cable bracket to match up with the holes on the new manifold. You should be able to figure out vacuum line routing using a manual. I think that’s about for installing it. Haven’t gotten to the dyno yet, and I’m not sure if I’ll ever make it to the strip. We did everything all at once, so I’m not sure how much difference the manifold itself made. Actually, I don’t know what difference anything made because I never drove the car at all before we did all of this to it! I’ll probably wait until i get an s-afc before i dyno it. I’m not sure about the port size difference, but search and you should be able to find it.
hey, i just got done putting a skunk2 manifold on my car last weekend, and i heard the same thing, that you had to us a fuel rail from a different car. but as i was looking at my fuel pressure regulator, all i had to do was bend the inlet hose fitting a little, and then everything went together pretty well. it only took a couple seconds, and now seeing that i don’t have the money at the moment to buy a new fuel rail and everything, i saved a little money. hope this helps.
because i don’t have any type of performance air intake before my manifold, the engine isn’t breathing any better than it did before. so as of right now, i haven’t seen much of an improvement in performance, but once i get the intake, i think i’ll probably be able to notice a difference. i got the header a couple days ago so i’m hoping i’ll be able to see a difference after i put that on. and i have been building this car for a couple months now, but i’m only 16 and i don’t get my license till december. so, as you can probably tell, i don’t get to drive this car that much. my dad is drivin it mostly. so, i don’t really have much to compare the performance to. sorry i couldn’t be of more help. good luck
very cool 