I’ve searched and found why my ABS light is coming on (120 seconds pump overrun) thanks for the detailed info.
What could be causing this.
I had the CV joint replaced 500miles ago and it did it once but then stopped. Now it starts running as soon as the cars moves forward runs for 120 sec and then shuts off and sets off the ABS light?
I can hear the pump running while the car is on I need a good starting place…any ideas.
First a litttle background on what the ABS system is trying to do…
In order for the ABS system to work, The ABS Brake Fluid must me “pressurized” Whenever the car starts moving, the ABS pump (located under the battery) starts up in order to build up enough pressure. The fluid coming out of the pump goes into a round Plastic “Ball” Called an accumulator (also located under the battery). The Accumulator has a pressure switch that turns off the pump once the fluid has been pressurized to a certain level.
If everything is working correctly, the pump should only run for a few seconds before there is enough pressure built up. If the ABS computer detects that the pump has been running for more than 120 seconds (two minutes), then it figures that something is wrong and disables the ABS system (ABS light comes on and computer gives diagnostic code 1 “pump overrun”)
There are a few things that could be causing this. Here are a few of the most common"
Air in the system - If there is air in the system, the pump cannot pressurize the brake fluid. the system needs to be bled. The bleeder bolt is located on the pump (underneat the battery), but requires a special tool to bleed out the air.
Bad pressure switch - If the pressure switch on the accumulator has gone bad, the system will not detect that the fluid has been pressurized and turn off the pump.
Bad seals - If the seals in the pump or the Modulator (The big part by the firewall on tha passenger side) have gone bad, the system will not be able to pressurize the fluid.
My first thought is Air in the System. It started after the CV joints were replaced prior to that no problems. (I’m assuming they disconnect everything on the front end to do this)
I need to get my hands on one of those “bleeder” tools and try that. Any suggestions?
I guess the seals may have gone once the system was brought back on line.
I’m headed out of town 'til thursday so it’s gonna have to wait til the weekend.
Any additional info is greatly appreciated and I’ll check back from “the road”