Alright i have a DB2 and im parting out a 92 RS w/out abs. im planning on taking abs out of the gsr. what im wondering is what exactly i need from the RS to put into my GSR. the prop valve, mc, front lines…anything else?
I just used the prop valve and bent my brake lines to fit, but yah you’re good with what you have.
will my gsr rear brake lines fit onto the prop valve?
Just removed my ABS from my GSR so I have an idea what is involved.
The rear brake lines coming out of the firewall of the GSR are much shorter than the lines in a non ABS equipped model but if you are OK with moving the proportioning valve closer to the firewall it will work, especially if you are just going to bend the other lines from the MC and the left side brake to meet up with the prop. valve. The alternative of changing to longer brake lines that come through the firewall wasn’t very appealing or even adding some junctions and extra lengths of line so it would reach to the prop. valve when located in it’s stock location didn’t seem mandatory for our needs.
One thing we found though was that one of the lines going into the ABS MC had a different size fitting where it goes into the MC and that size fitting didn’t fit in the non ABS MC so we had to use a new line for that.
And we also noticed that when we were bolting down the MC onto the booster that the piston rod that actually pushes in the MC was already doing so before we had even tightened down the MC to the booster. We couldn’t ever get the brakes to bleed up because it was already past the rear brake line fitting once it was all bolted down tightly. Quick fix for this was to just cut the piston rod shorter (about an inch) so that it didn’t engage the MC until it was all bolted down and you actually had to step on the brake pedal.
Bleeding the brakes also involved bleeding off air at the top of the prop valve as this is the highest point on the system and air still wants to stay trapped up there too.
Hope this helps
PS
My GSR is a Canadian Model so maybe there are some differences compared to a USDM
BTW after completed you can get rid of some weighty items that were ABS specific to keep your race weight as low as possible !
or instead of cutting up vital braking equipment, just use the non-abs booster. the rod will line up correctly. if youve already got the parts car, just do it and save yourself from potential danger.
so i use the brake booster,mc, all the lines in the engine bay and the prop valve from my donor car.
put that on my gsr
and im going to have to make a custom line from the prop valve to the lines that go to the rear of the car on my gsr…right?
and thats basically the whole swap
[QUOTE=gagen2teg;2167934]so i use the brake booster,mc, all the lines in the engine bay and the prop valve from my donor car.
put that on my gsr
and im going to have to make a custom line from the prop valve to the lines that go to the rear of the car on my gsr…right?
and thats basically the whole swap[/QUOTE]
you dont need to make the rear lines, it just sets the prop valve farther back towards the firewall and you just gotta get creative with the brake lines that come from the MC.
I made my own lines from the old ABS lines to connect the proportioning valve to the rear lines. Here is a pick of mine.
Pulling the booster can be a b_tch compared to everything else you are doing for the swap. It’s your call though, yeah you are modifying the piston on the abs booster but it ain’t a big deal !
I kept my abs master cylinder and booster.
Part of my swap problem was that some of my brake lines under the booster were rusty and likely going to brake if we started wiggling them around trying to re-bend them to fit to something else so we started replacing suspect lines but as b16da9 demonstrated in his pictures you could just reroute all you lines to the proportioning valve and there is no concern that the size of the fitting at the ABS MC is different than the fitting on a non ABS MC as we found out. Obviously the prop valve end of that line has the same size fitting whether you have an ABS car or not as b16da9 showed us in his pics. Note to self ; don’t buy a car from somewhere where they salt the roads in the winter time ! (as if I have a choice :surrend:)
Actually the lines in my Engine compartment are from a none ABS car. What I did is cut off the 10mm fitting at the master cylinder and replaced it with the 12mm from my abs lines (a dremel tool makes cutting the lines cake also a good flaring tool).
Why is there a new thread about this? Isn’t there at least two other in depth threads which outline the whole procedure?
Colin, you are correct maybe a mod can merge all three threads together.
Or maybe we can just search before we ask questions that have already been extensively covered. 