Hello Racerboy,
As much as I would like to take credit for the Mugen and wheels page it came from some one else, not mine. Look for the links in this posting on the Hybrid Board for more = Hybrid Board!
And here is the rundown on ABS removal. Never finished my write up but the important info is here. As far as cost, should be under $75.00 Canadian, time, depends on how fast your friend works but should be do able in under three hours including a careful system bleeding.
ABS Removal
I under took this project for three primary reasons, cost of replacing or repairing a broken, problematic ABS system, engine bay space desire and weight savings. And not necessarily in this order! The first generation ABS systems on our cars are prohibitively expensive to maintain and repair properly and I believe it’s operation is sub standard compared with modern ABS systems weight and function.
After removing all portions of the ABS system, including modulator, accumulator, power unit, control unit, wheel sensors, relays, fuses and fuse connections from the under hood fuse box and most portions of the ABS systems wiring harness approximately 35 lbs. You are left with four brake lines too short to be usable and two rear lines that must be extended from the rear brake line manifold. The master cylinder is reusable but all brake lines in the front portion of the car should be replaced reason being they are too short to reach the location of a replacement proportioning valve and junctions to the old lines are unacceptable for safety reasons. You must have a brake proportioning valve or you will not have any front to rear brake bias control.
To do the job correctly you need a pipe cutter, to cut the brake lines square before double flaring, 4.75 mm brake line double flaring tool, a non ABS proportioning valve from an salvaged Integra, four brake lines and a brake line separation clip purchased from your favorite Acura dealer. You should have a Helms Shop Manual for referencing the proper location of brake lines into the proportioning valve. I also recommend you take a look at a non ABS Integra to get some idea of the brake line routing and locations. In addition much patience, tenacity and long arms to reach some almost inaccessible areas under the intake manifold on the fire wall and master cylinder are needed. There are alternative ways of doing the change over, manual-proportioning valves, etc, but because of the two separate diagonal brake systems on Honda’s this is the safe, simplest, cost effective, stock appearing, method I could devise. Have fun!
Here is what you need to do with the lines, it is quite complicated and if there is anything you don’t understand or have questions about get back to me, these are your only brakes!
- Purchase a used brake proportioning valve and mounting bracket from a non ABS Integra. The holes for mounting it are already on the shock tower under the ABS modulator location. The correct proportioning valve should have 40/40 lettering cast into its exterior.
Proportioning Valves
4040 - 10.3" fronts - rear disk
3040 - 9.5" fronts (small) - rear disk
3030 - 9.5"(small) - rear drum
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Purchase two new brake lines from the dealer running from the proportioning valve to the two front wheels.
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Purchase two new brake lines from the dealer running from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve. On the rear line coming from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve you need to cut the fitting off the new line, install the larger fitting from the old brake line and double flare the new line to mate up with the master cylinder. The rear ABS master cylinder brake line fitting is larger than the stock metric fitting that comes on the new non-ABS line.
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Make up two short rear jumper brake lines from the proportioning valve to the rear brake line manifold accordingly extending the rear lines to reach the proportioning valve. Install the stock metric fittings and double flared the lines. You can scavenge the fittings and short sections of brake line from the old ABS system lines.
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After installing all the lines, fit the line separator clip at the proportioning valve to prevent damage from chafing to the lines.
Once I get some pictures together and review this write up it should get submitted to the Integra tips section.
