Hey!I was wondering if anybody here can tell me how to completly remove my ABS system.I do not like it and want to know if I can take it out of my car and just run new brake lines.My car is a 90 GS.Thank you!
Nex time try the search it does work!
I under took this project for three primary reasons, cost of replacing or repairing a broken, problematic ABS system, engine bay space desire and weight savings. And not necessarily in this order! The first generation ABS systems on our cars are prohibitively expensive to maintain and repair properly and I believe it’s operation is sub standard compared with modern ABS systems weight and function.
After removing all portions of the ABS system, including modulator, accumulator, power unit, control unit, wheel sensors, relays, fuses and fuse connections from the under hood fuse box and most portions of the ABS systems wiring harness approximately 35 lbs. You are left with four brake lines too short to be usable and two rear lines that must be extended from the rear brake line manifold. The master cylinder is reusable but all brake lines in the front portion of the car should be replaced reason being they are too short to reach the location of a replacement proportioning valve and junctions to the old lines are unacceptable for safety reasons. You must have a brake proportioning valve or you will not have any front to rear brake bias control.
To do the job correctly you need a pipe cutter, to cut the brake lines square before double flaring, 4.75 mm brake line double flaring tool, a non ABS proportioning valve from an salvaged Integra, four brake lines and a brake line separation clip purchased from your favorite Acura dealer. You should have a Helms Shop Manual for referencing the proper location of brake lines into the proportioning valve. I also recommend you take a look at a non ABS Integra to get some idea of the brake line routing and locations. In addition much patience, tenacity and long arms to reach some almost inaccessible areas under the intake manifold on the fire wall and master cylinder are needed. There are alternative ways of doing the change over, manual-proportioning valves, etc, but because of the two separate diagonal brake systems on Honda’s this is the safe, simplest, cost effective, stock appearing, method I could devise. Have fun!
Here is what you need to do with the lines, it is quite complicated and if there is anything you don’t understand or have questions about get back to me, these are your only brakes!
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Purchase a used brake proportioning valve and mounting bracket from a non ABS Integra. The holes for mounting it are already on the shock tower under the ABS modulator location. The correct proportioning valve should have 50/50 lettering cast into its exterior.
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Purchase two new brake lines from the dealer running from the proportioning valve to the two front wheels.
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Purchase two new brake lines from the dealer running from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve. On the rear line coming from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve you need to cut the fitting off the new line, install the larger fitting from the old brake line and double flare the new line to mate up with the master cylinder. The rear ABS master cylinder brake line fitting is larger than the stock metric fitting that comes on the new non-ABS line.
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Make up two short rear jumper brake lines from the proportioning valve to the rear brake line manifold accordingly extending the rear lines to reach the proportioning valve. Install the stock metric fittings and double flared the lines. You can scavenge the fittings and short sections of brake line from the old ABS system lines.
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After installing all the lines, fit the line separator clip at the proportioning valve to prevent damage from chafing to the lines.
There acting up hu…I asked the guy at the shop and he said that the car relies on what it has that to take it out would be asking for trouble he then told me the easy solution, just pull out a fuse under the hood where the fues are i think there are like 3 or something ALB (anti lock brake) just pull one of them. From then on everytime you get to about 10mph the light comes on and the ABS is disabled.
thats all? no problemo!
Thanx
Thanks guys for all the help.Now i will try and do that.Thanks agian…
I did what Marc did and took it one step further. I replaced my P/S rack with a manual rack from a Civic. I have not tested it on the road yet but when I do I will start a new thread.
archivethis
Marc, as always, thanks for the absolutely thorough response! I plan on doing the removal sometime in the future, and may look to you with my questions.