I’ve got a bit of an issue with my 91 integra. I’ll try to post everything I have troubleshooted but feel free to ask any questions!
I have swapped a LS/V into my integra, before the swap, I had heat. I swapped a B18B bottomend with a JDM OBD0 B16 head. I used the Golden Eagle LS/V conversion with their headgasket.
Troubleshooting:
Block Check (a chemical that shows if hydrocarbons are in the cooling system) - Good, no hydrocarbons.
Thermostat - New O’ Reilly’s part
Coolant temp sensor on coolant neck - New O’ Reillys part
Heater core - Back flushed and forward flushed
Control Valve on heater line - Functioning
Blend doors in cabin - All functioning
Radiator - Used DA Fluidyne fullsize radiator
Bubble bled the cooling system for over an hour yet again
The heat is very intermittent with my infrared meter, it varies from 55-90 degrees. I only once got it to 90 degrees. It usually never blows heat, and if it does, will immediately dissipate the moment I start driving.
Now, I was also getting an overheat, or climbing temp gauge ONLY while driving. I never let it get close to red. Mostly, the temp gauge will read below normal, but once I start driving it will climb up.
I did have a bad overflow line that was letting air in the system. I have replaced that and on the drive home it did not overheat, but it was also 18 degrees outside. So I’m not fully sure if the overheating has been solved or not. BUT, I still do not have any heat.
Am I missing something? I really need to figure this out before the next snowfall, as I intended to drive this rather than my mustang haha.
What are the possibilities of an incorrect headgasket? I bought the GE kit off ebay, but I cannot find a part number in my emails for some reason. I used an 81mm gasket that comes from GE.
[QUOTE=Sirtef9;2305542]did you do a coolant pressure check?
Check your heater core?[/QUOTE]
I have not done a pressure check yet. I need to look into it. And like I said we back flushed and forward flushed the heater core. I have not seen or smelled any leaks in the cabin.
I should also note that my top radiator line is piping hot, the bottom is luke warm to hot. The heater core line with the valve is luke warm and the other line is piping hot.
Are your fans turning on? For the overheat?
And there is a few other things that might cause the car to heat relating to the heater core. I will send once I get out of work. Its some type of valves (I think)
[QUOTE=JonDiaz;2305570]Are your fans turning on? For the overheat?
And there is a few other things that might cause the car to heat relating to the heater core. I will send once I get out of work. Its some type of valves (I think)[/QUOTE]
Fans are indeed turning on. It does seem like they take forever to finally kick on but I’m not sure if that has to do with much. As I said the gauge reads below normal (about a .25 to .50 inch) so maybe they are related?
And as far as the thermostat, it was a new part and I replaced it with another new part. For curiosity, should I have bought a b18 or b16 thermostat?
[QUOTE=AxeOfGlory;2305569]I have not done a pressure check yet. I need to look into it. And like I said we back flushed and forward flushed the heater core. I have not seen or smelled any leaks in the cabin.
I should also note that my top radiator line is piping hot, the bottom is luke warm to hot. The heater core line with the valve is luke warm and the other line is piping hot.[/QUOTE]
both heater core hoses should be roughly the same temp with the heat on blast. are you sure the heater valve is opening?
[QUOTE=welfare;2305622]when does it overheat? cruising? or just idle?
if you want to eliminate the tstat as a possibility, try removing it and see if that changes things.[/QUOTE]
It only overheats when cruising. Idle is fine.
When we were back flushing the heater core I switched the climate control from hot to cold and it backed up the flush, so I’m assuming the valve is working?
Okay guys sorry I haven’t replied I’ve been gone for Thanksgiving.
Update:
I did resolve (or at least what it appears) my overheat issue. I believe it was the cracked hose leading the the overflow.
BUT
I still do not have heat. I haven’t had enough time to pressure test, run without a thermostat, or swap radiators. Would pressure testing show the radiator is bad? What was wrong with the radiator jdecks?
Would these still be a viable option for the no heat issue? I haven’t seen any coolant leaking anymore so I don’t think I’m puling anymore air in now.
Thanks!
Brandon
PS - This is an image of my coolant guage straight on after driving for 30 minutes with a 10 minute warmup idle
that gauge looks about right.
with the car at operating temp, heat on blast, have a feel on the inlet and outlet hoses for the heater core. if they aren’t roughly the same temp, the core is plugged
[QUOTE=welfare;2305973]that gauge looks about right.
with the car at operating temp, heat on blast, have a feel on the inlet and outlet hoses for the heater core. if they aren’t roughly the same temp, the core is plugged[/QUOTE]
I’m going to check again tonight now that no air is in the system.
One of the real technical Honda guys I know thinks I may have my heater core and bypass lines misdirected.
Does anyone have a picture or a good idea of how the heater hoses are supposed to route to a b18b?
If ur using oe-fit hoses u cant mess it up cus theyll fit one way unless u forced them to fit but the outlets are next to the stat housing its one on top and two on the bottom and the top hose goes to the bottom outlet to the driver side and bottom outlet to the passenger side to the core. heater core could be clogged = no heat… stat is all the same for b series and never run ur car without a stat… please pressure test ur rad and rad cap… also make should stat was no put in backwards
Running no stat… colder weather engine wont get up to temp which engine will stay in open loop also cause oil to sluge faster… heat transfer flow to fast to remove from head and block… and engine could lose hp and will not running right cause our honda engine running better with hotter temps
All in all i wanna say that the stat could be in backwards cuz of the symptoms… backwards stat means engine will be hotter than normal cuz the valve is on the cold side of the cooling system which gets the lower hose to be cooler than the top hose… this may lead to the cold side taking alot longer or not to get up to temp to allow coolant to flow cuz the valve is on the cold side and has to wait for the cold side to finally reach the right temp to open the valve allowing coolant flow… this also means heater core wil not receive hot/warm coolant to give heat… if i remember the temp sender is on the hot side so ull see that the engine is hotter than normal
