[QUOTE=icemanGSR;2294057]Gains to an engine with power adders are all relative. No two cars will have the same gains from the same parts. Companies that produce those parts will work towards SOME universality in the tuning of those parts. But each car will vary as to the overall result. How can you find out? Get on a dyno and see. You can look up what most integras put down stock all over the internet. I’ve seen stock LSs make anywhere from 100whp to 140whp. Depends on age, miles, condition, etc. So it all depends.
on the right track. where he’s getting at i think is that the package is what’s important, not the individual parts. They all work together. While the cold air intake on it’s own may not seem like much, once the rest of the intaek and exaust are opened up you start to see how it’s realyl working. again gains on cold air vs short ram are relative. i prefer a tuned length cold air intake myself.[/QUOTE]
yes iceman you are correct that’s the point I was getting at, and 91akira you might want to pick up an intake and header and different exhaust system so that you will be able to tell that you have unlocked a little more power, I have a strong small block history but internal combustion engines all function the same way and with the same principle, the faster you can get the air in and out the more power you will see
For a $1000 get yourself a B16A transmission, Fidanza 7lb, an ITR shifter & linkage, and call it a day.
“Bolt ons” for an LS are a total waste. Save the $$ you would spend on that stuff, get a B18C, then get some bolt ons.
I have that drivetrain setup in my car, stock JDM B18B, hacksaw’d AEM intake off craigslist, used HKS exhaust from a member on here, no cat, 100 shot nitrous, 93 Octane and ran a 13.9 103mph 1/4 mile.
Talk about value.
Not trying to sound like an asshole and thread jack the OP’s thread or anything but I love how everybody loves suggesting that everybody else should put a vtec in their DA, that kind of ensuing the age old argument between which is better Chevy vs. ford, import vs. domestic, etc. if the man wanted a vtec or had asked for suggestions on swapping his car, I’m sure he would have asked, all he simply did was ask how he could roughly get 20hp on an otherwise stock b18 using I’m assuming roughly $1000.
[QUOTE=TurboG2teg311;2294118]For a $1000 get yourself a B16A transmission, Fidanza 7lb, an ITR shifter & linkage, and call it a day.
“Bolt ons” for an LS are a total waste. Save the $$ you would spend on that stuff, get a B18C, then get some bolt ons.
I have that drivetrain setup in my car, stock JDM B18B, hacksaw’d AEM intake off craigslist, used HKS exhaust from a member on here, no cat, 100 shot nitrous, 93 Octane and ran a 13.9 103mph 1/4 mile.
Talk about value.[/QUOTE]
Describe your “drivetrain” setup. What ratio did you end up goign with? what transmission?
Did you upgrade your suspention for drag racing?
What Tires did you use?
Have you upgraded your fuel system as well?
What compression was your engine before you slapped on the nitrous?
What kind of power was it putting down before and after the nitrous?
If you want a drag honda, get your pocket book out and get ready to spend some money. But your example is hardly one to discredit the bolt ons as being a waste for an LS engine. They are stout engines, with good power to torque and can benefit greatly from power adders as much as the next engine relatively speaking.
[QUOTE=Hwyhogg;2293279]Sorry to beat an old topic, buuuuut…does anyone have a proven combination to add about 20 hp to a stock engine? LOVE this little car, but would like a tad more power…thanks for your time and patience,
James[/QUOTE]
Crower 403 cams (degreed)
Crower valve springs and retainers
Adjustable cam gear
Blox intake manifold
68mm throttle body
Hondata intake manifold gasket
3" intake
Hytech replica 4-1 header with 2.5" collector
2.5" cat-back exhaust with no cat
And for a little more fun
B16 transmission
Act/exedy clutch
Lightweight flywheel
[QUOTE=icemanGSR;2294149]Describe your “drivetrain” setup. What ratio did you end up goign with? what transmission?
Did you upgrade your suspention for drag racing?
What Tires did you use?
Have you upgraded your fuel system as well?
What compression was your engine before you slapped on the nitrous?
What kind of power was it putting down before and after the nitrous?
If you want a drag honda, get your pocket book out and get ready to spend some money. But your example is hardly one to discredit the bolt ons as being a waste for an LS engine. They are stout engines, with good power to torque and can benefit greatly from power adders as much as the next engine relatively speaking.[/QUOTE]
Me providing my setup and 1/4 mile time was to give an example of what you can do to get the most possible performance for your dollar. In no shape or form am I giving advice to build a competitive drag car. Alot of people in this thread are just suggesting this and that, providing daydream lists of parts combinations with no proof such as a dyno sheet or a timeslip to backup anything they are saying.
To answer your questions…
Did not upgrade the suspension specifically for drag racing. Car has Koni/GC on it.
Tires are Dunlop Direzza DZ101’s
As far as traction on the track goes the suspension and tires did nothing for me as I was still turning a 2.3 60’
Fuel system was 100% stock at the time, now has a Walbro 255 pump
Stock compression
Engine is a 100% stock JDM B18B. B18B cast iron exhaust manifold, B18B intake manifold, B18B TB, OEM B18B parts valve cover to oil pan.
Car has never been dyno’d and is running a stock p75, on the motor it probably puts down a laughable 120whp.
My only point is the LS engine just is not cut out for making good power all motor. Bolt on parts are a foolish waste of money. Save for a power adder or comb craigslist for a deal on a B18C.
long live the b18c, B20v.