Sorry to beat an old topic, buuuuut…does anyone have a proven combination to add about 20 hp to a stock engine? LOVE this little car, but would like a tad more power…thanks for your time and patience,
James
When you say stock, I’m assuming you mean bolt-ons (no cams or vtec head?). If that’s the case, I don’t it’s possible. What’s your budget? For you to gain 20 whp you would have to spend a decent amount of money. I am also making the assumption that you are talking about an LS motor.
[QUOTE=Hwyhogg;2293279]Sorry to beat an old topic, buuuuut…does anyone have a proven combination to add about 20 hp to a stock engine? LOVE this little car, but would like a tad more power…thanks for your time and patience,
James[/QUOTE]
Budget has all to do with it.
Usual bolt-ons. Maybe some stage 1 cams.
3" intake with velocity stack, tri-y knock off header, 2.5" or 2.38mm catback with matching catalytic converter.
Cost $300-600 used or new.
Won’t get you 20 hp maybe 10 if that, more with cams and a tune later on but that may be out of your budget by then.
Actually get this book for starters or use Google, the information is out there just have to SEARCH for it…
Thanks…looks like a must read book…will get one.
best and easiest way is to go lsv. and youll never look back.
What is lsv? Be patient :stare:
Budget about 1k
lsv is ls vtec, in other words motor or head swap with all the equipped vtec componants, usually costs anywhere from $2-600 used, but I can only speak for myself locally on that price, no idea how much it would cost you in your area for all the parts
You’re not going to get anything worthwhile with $1000. If that’s your budget then stick to bolt ons like intake, header, and exhaust. If you buy used maybe you can get all that stuff and a tune, but that’s cutting it real close depending on what parts you want. I’d say leave it stock and keep saving.
OR if you don’t care about power and care more about the car being fun to drive, put that $$ into suspension. You’ll still need a little more than $1000 to get much of a complete setup though.
OR if you’re “power” oriented you could spend that $1000 on transmission parts. Get yourself a short geared transmission, it’ll completely change the feeling of the car. It’ll feel a lot faster, it’ll be much sportier, and it will actually be a bit faster as well. If you get lucky and/or spend a little more I’d advise you opt for a short geared trans plus new clutch and a light flywheel. To save a few bucks you could even have your stock flywheel lightened instead of buying a fancy aftermarket one. GSR YS1 + exedy organic racing clutch + 13lb OEM flywheel completely changed how my car drove when I had the stock motor. It made it fun again!
Oh, and you can forget ls/vtec. Sure, you could ghetto one together if you get some deals and cut corners, but personally that’s not my style, and even if it is your style you’re just risking having the whole thing go wrong and that $1000 being a complete waste. Remember, if you do any engine mods like that you really NEED to have the ecu tuned. Tuning alone is going to be $200-$300 for a pretty simple tune. And that doesn’t include the cost to upgrade to something like Hondata.
If you want to keep this car for a long time and do a nice build just save your money. If you really don’t plan to do much then stick to a high quality suspension or just intake/exhaust. It’s not a turbo car or anything like that, there’s not much to “unlock” unless you are adding turbo or taking apart the motor.
it all boils down to the basics on a stock engine.
cai
62 mm itr tb
intake manifold
good headers 2.5 collector and test pipe optional. make sure they don’t bottle neck your exhaust when bolting or welding on. it has to be the same size as the collector on the headers.
good exhaust catback 2.5" all the way back. with least amount of restrictions.
short geared B16a cable Trans.
fuel pressure regulator (45 psi)
fuel rail and pressure guage.
if your cheap you can start by removing dead weight.
AC
power steering
abs.
small civic.radiator
smaller battery.
carbon hood.
you get the idea right.
things you don’t want to be cheap on
fuel pressure regulator
headers
exhaust
B16a Trans.
and last keep spare ngk sparkplugs
NGK wires
engine oil
Honda oil filter.
regular maintenance on time.
[QUOTE=da6xsi06;2293623]it all boils down to the basics on a stock engine.
cai
62 mm itr tb
intake manifold
good headers 2.5 collector and test pipe optional. make sure they don’t bottle neck your exhaust when bolting or welding on. it has to be the same size as the collector on the headers.
good exhaust catback 2.5" all the way back. with least amount of restrictions.
short geared B16a cable Trans.
fuel pressure regulator (45 psi)
fuel rail and pressure guage.
if your cheap you can start by removing dead weight.
AC
power steering
abs.
small civic.radiator
smaller battery.
carbon hood.
you get the idea right.
things you don’t want to be cheap on
fuel pressure regulator
headers
exhaust
B16a Trans.
and last keep spare ngk sparkplugs
NGK wires
engine oil
Honda oil filter.
regular maintenance on time.[/QUOTE]
First and foremost - - - parts being chosen need to be relative to the build being done. you can’t just slap things together and expect them to work.
my thoughts.
cai - a good place to start is the intake. cold air/short ram, go with whatever suits your budget and overall requirement.
62 mm itr tb - relative to the build. should be matched to the intake manifold you choose.
intake manifold - relative to the build. should be matched to the throttle body you choose.
good headers 2.5 collector and test pipe optional. make sure they don’t bottle neck your exhaust when bolting or welding on. it has to be the same size as the collector on the headers. test pipe is useless. a high flow cat gives you the same power upgrade as well as retains emissions.
good exhaust catback 2.5" all the way back. with least amount of restrictions. - not exactly. larger is not always better, nor is less restriction. again it depends on the overall build and requirements. check team integra for the exhaust articles. they have been posted here as well.
short geared B16a cable Trans. - often too short for most street builds, and imho a daily driven street car can benefit much more from a gsr transmission.
fuel pressure regulator (45 psi) - unnecessary upgrade. stock honda units can support well beyond 400 hp turbo builds.
fuel rail and pressure guage. - rail is a preference. if you want it to look pretty great. if you need it for additional components/gauges/etc then get one. pressure gauge is a good thing but not really THAT necessary unless you are racing on a track on a regular basis and doing a lot of fine tuning.
if your cheap you can start by removing dead weight.
AC - the power you “gain” from this is so small it’s not worth the effort or loss of your cool breeze in the cabin on a hot summer day.
power steering - the power you “gain” from this is so small it’s not worth it. for a daily driven car the accessories shoudl be kept.
abs. - there is NO reason to remove a safety feature of the car unless you are building a dedicated race car. it’s designed to save your life. leave it be.
small civic.radiator - if you really wanna go ahead. Not necessary to swap for weight purposes. this is more for space saving.
smaller battery. - fyi they kinda suck.
carbon hood. - if you want. but they aren’t cheap. $350 + for a decent one.
you get the idea right.
Do more research. There are TONS of examples of what to do and what not to do all over the net.
What you don’t want to be cheap on is your tuning solution. Hondata, Neptune, ECTune, etc. And don’t be skimpy on finding a reputable tuner to go over the build with you and handle the programming. Don’t attempt it yourself the first time out.
Good Luck.
Pardon me for thread jacking but how much horsepower will a Flat K&N filter intake, 421 DC header, and cat back 2 1/4 inch piping w/ a universal muffler give? Thats what I have on my car for like 10 years.
I was told this at PANN Auto:
- They said you don’t need the cold intake pipe. Our integras already have cold air induction. Just add a flat K&N filter. Will add about 2 hP.
- They said a 421 DC header will give 8hp.
- The cat back exhaust will give about 8hp.
What you think about these “professionals”? If they are right, that is about 20 hp.
For me, I do feel a tad of a difference in power. Just a tad doe.
Well 91akira those are actually some what myths, no car ever really comes equipped with cold air induction from the factory (i.e. ram air, cowl/shaker hoods), the gains with the CAI will be so minimal (if any) that you won’t be able to tell, and as for the exhaust freeing up about 16hp, that all really depends on how free flowing it is and if it is mandrel bent or if it is a standard bent exhaust, standard bend is pretty self explainitory, just look at a stock exhaust, mandrel bent will definitely increase flow and let the hot gases out more efficiently, however paired with the proper exhaust manifold a mandrel bent exhaust could see gains anywhere from 8-16hp, however much it will gain all depends on how well your motor can breathe, the power will not really be seen, however your throttle response is easily noticeable, so hp pick up will not really be noticeable with an “ass dyno” as everybody calls it, in other words throttle response pickup=noticeable, hp pick up=not really noticeable without spending money at a dyno shop
[QUOTE=91akira;2294003]Pardon me for thread jacking but how much horsepower will a Flat K&N filter intake, 421 DC header, and cat back 2 1/4 inch piping w/ a universal muffler give? Thats what I have on my car for like 10 years.
I was told this at PANN Auto:
- They said you don’t need the cold intake pipe. Our integras already have cold air induction. Just add a flat K&N filter. Will add about 2 hP.
- They said a 421 DC header will give 8hp.
- The cat back exhaust will give about 8hp.
What you think about these “professionals”? If they are right, that is about 20 hp.
For me, I do feel a tad of a difference in power. Just a tad doe.[/QUOTE]
Gains to an engine with power adders are all relative. No two cars will have the same gains from the same parts. Companies that produce those parts will work towards SOME universality in the tuning of those parts. But each car will vary as to the overall result. How can you find out? Get on a dyno and see. You can look up what most integras put down stock all over the internet. I’ve seen stock LSs make anywhere from 100whp to 140whp. Depends on age, miles, condition, etc. So it all depends.
on the right track. where he’s getting at i think is that the package is what’s important, not the individual parts. They all work together. While the cold air intake on it’s own may not seem like much, once the rest of the intaek and exaust are opened up you start to see how it’s realyl working. again gains on cold air vs short ram are relative. i prefer a tuned length cold air intake myself.
When you say “mandrel bent”, will there be a small indentation or kink on the bend done by a customizing machine? I thought it would decrease flow due to the kink in the bend. Please school me.
crush bent exhausts will have ripples in the bends, or they will look slightly smashed/bottlenecked/or crushed. mandrel bent ones dont’. it will look to be much smoother bends and transitions, maintaining the overall diameter and shape of the tube…
http://kteller.com/wp-content/images/huth7.jpg
http://www.ripleysmufflerandbrakes.com/images/mandrel-bent-vs-press-bent-exhaust.jpg
mine has I/H/E, cold air down into the bumper, rmf replica header with 2.5in magnaflow high flow cat with 2.5" all the way back…only picked up maybe 12hp with all of that. and mine was dynoed for fun just to see
Thanks Iceman. I understand now. I’m afraid my exhaust piping are “crushed bent”