So, if all this power or tq. or whatever is simply a result of lower coolant temp. why haven’t I heard of larger radiators giving you increases like that? Or have I just missed something?
i wouldn’t expect a noticeable gain from any one single of these ideas.
sounds like the good old “butt dyno” talking here. I’m willing to bet you’d “feel” the power from adding a k&n drop in filter too. Its not uncommon.
i don’t believe the changing of the ratio of antifreeze and water. It is 50/50 because of boiling point elevation and freezing depression. In the next few day’s I will run some experiments on this and tell you my results.
I have experimented with the coolant mix and the only thing I discovered was that the coolant boiling point changed (a big duh, if you ask me). The best boiling point vs heat transfer was around 50/50. Adding water wetter helped it a bit, but I don’t think that it was worth the trip to the auto parts store. Indexing the plugs does work, but the results vary and again, you got to weigh the return on investment. I have tried insulating the intake pipe so that the intake air would arrive at the throttle body at cooler temps than before, but that really looked ghetto. If you are not racing where every little bit of power helps (provided that you are a good driver), then in my opinion, all those little tips are really not worth the time you would have to invest.
is the IAT sensor one applicable to g2’s?
Nevermind guys. I spoke too soon. Went ahead and searched for it and found my answere.
Should I do this?
This should work in theory because the coolant that goes through the throttle body warms it and the intake manifold up so they operate correctly in freezing temps, the IM and TB also in part acts as a large heat sink to help cool the motor. If you don’t live in an area that snows, I would think that this would show some improvement because by doing this you would effectively lower the temperature of the intake air which provides more combustion because of thermal expansion. The only down side is that the motor will run a little hotter, and if you live in an area that gets really hot in the summer this could prove to be a problem. You could solve this by getting a more effective radiator, but they cost a $hit load and I don’t want to spend a lot for one.
So here’s my question… I live in Cali where it doesn’t snow, but gets really hot in the summer. I have a 92 Integra GS with short ram intake, cold air box, and vented carbon hood… The carbon hood’s vent really lowered my engine’s temp but do you think I should try this mod? I really think it would work, just worried a little about over heating the engine in the summer. Temp gauge is usually laying around 1/3 after driving a while. :nana:
want another free mod… get your cat converter and gut it(take out the honeycombs out) best free mod i did 
and makes my car easier to drive(dont have to push the car to actually go.):stare:
Free Power
Your car will not pass smog with a gutted CAT. But yes, you will gain power.
First of all messing with any of these WILL affect your idle. Or it might not. It might make it bouncy, like mine was. It sucked.
LESS HEAT = MORE POWER it’s as simple as that. Removing heat sources from the IM will give you SLIGHTLY more power. I’m talking 1/2HP range if that. Look at a ITR IM it has no coolant lines going to it.
Now back to the TB anti-ice and other heat sources on the intake manifold. There are three, other than the engine itself. Coolant flows through IACV, FITV and the TB.
The only reason coolant flows through the TB is for anti-ice purpouses if you live up north where it actualy gets cold in the winter. You can bypass it if you live in a warmer climate. Or, I have seen a valve installed on the coolant line. Turn it on when it gets cold. 
IACV is next. I don’t know why coolant needs to flow through it, but I disconected it on mine. Can someone school me on this? :read:
FITV is right under the TB and has to be either connected or removed completely and blocked off with a plate.
You can also get a heat insulated IM gasket from HONDATA and eliminate the last source of heat. :rockon:
My IM feels just barely warm after hours of driving. Try it on your car.
Another cool little trick I only heard of doing is disconect the vac. lines to your FPR you’ll get SLIGHTLY higher fuel press. I prefer not to mess with vac. lines though.
All of these little tricks WILL give you a LITTLE more power separate, but put them together and you MIGHT gain a half a second in the 1/4 mile.
Or not.
Gutting your cat decreases power
Don’t gut your cat! They make synthetic violin strings now that work great! I know that was bad :giggle:. But seriously gutting your cat only hurts power. I’ll let Ben Ogle explain http://www.g2ic.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35710&highlight=gutted+cat
Hollow Cat
AH! Turbulence! Makes sense! I stand corrected.
I like magnaflow CATs, they flow realy well and stay hot so you won’t have any trouble with smog.