adding more air with a cold air, wouldn't that make you run lean

alright i went over a few replies since i wrote about the cold air intake and adding a adjustable fpr. correct me if im wrong but they have said ur adding more air with a cold air and its pushed in to each cylinder creating a higher compression but since ur throwing more air and only the same amount of fuel that u would have been throwing with a stock intake wouldnt that make u run lean. now i base pretty much everything off what i do. i have worked on chainsaws weedeaters lawnmower and still play with a nirto rc truck and everything u do is similar to a vehicle. now when i put more fuel to my rc and less nitro it runs rich n when i do the opposite it runs lean. now isnt that the same thing we r doing by adding a cold air, ur adding more air with the same amount of fuel so that brings me to the conclusion that we are going to run lean. now like i said not every one will throw the same codes and not every bodies car will react the same way as mine. please explain where im wrong with im not understanding. thats how it works with my carb. on my 383 so please explain so i can get this right.

like i said in the other thread its not that much more air to make that big of a difference, that’s why an intake alone might get you 2hp at the crank on an otherwise stock 4 cyl. and stock computers are made to adust as needed. because as engine temps change the motor needs different amounts of fuel and it changes just fine without any modifications. the only reason i said what i said was stating how it works. i never said it changes the compression ratio all i said was is colder air is denser so you get more air molecules in the same space and when you are talking internal combustion and keeping the combustion temps up for proper burn you need to look that far into it. and with more molecules it will squeeze tighter. but not even .1:1 difference in compression

basically again like everyone else said to, no you dont need to change ANYTHING in the fuel system, do not need to change octane, do not need to change timing, do not need a tune, nothing else is needed to effectively run a cold air intake it will not change a/f ratios because the computer and stock setup WILL compensate accordingly, keeping the OEM a/f

and also in everyone of your posts you have never shown wideband proof (let alone ran a proper wideband on any of your vehicles) or have you shown dyno proof of your information. so to everyone that is getting upset everything you state is strictly assumption and “butt dyno” proof. which is absolutely pointless.

A/F stays the same because the MAF sensor reads how much air is coming in and the computer compensates the fuel to match. the compression is not increased but the cylinder pressure is. that is because you are still compressing the molecules together the same amount but since there is more of them in there the pressure increases. the same thing happens in a turbo/supercharger setup, but in those instances more air than the MAF can read is getting put in there so it cant adjust fuel to compensate. that is why you need to run aftermarket fuel parts. for the most part in an N/A setup you dont need to go bigger than stock, except for the more extreme situations (i use the term extreme loosely here).

Integras don’t have MAF’s so it wouldn’t be relevant here.

But we do have MAPsensors and they CAN take into account the minute air density change from cold air intakes. The facepalming is very strong is this thread. :argh:

Emmasdaddy- Please do the forum a favor, and refrain from post your ridiculous, misinformed wall of texts that you continue to infect this place with. FUCK MAN. The fact that you recommend a FPR for a cold air intake is just so absurd. Use some common sense and read up on modern technology. Seriously just wiki MAP sensor dude.

thank you mr. penny i tried so hard to be nice and just hint at it. he probably needs bluntness


  1. :fingban:

the oxygen sensor plays the key role in keeping A/F ratios close to stoich

thank u welfare, maybe if one of these guys would have not been ass wholes and new that then maybe i would not have gone on for so long about this. now i can go fix the underline problem. i have said this a hundred time maybe u guys will pay attention this time, and no I DONT have to dyno my freaking car, most of u havent and u tell people what works the best so stop telling me to. i was simply telling the guy what i did on my car that worked on my car maybe the oxygen sensor was the reason putting on that fpr helped me so much. stop with the octane seriously dude it gives me 26 miles to a gallon and everyone i ever talked to 93 burns cleaner doesnt that mean ur less likely to gum up ur fuel system just asking so if u reply dont be a jackass just answer the question.u guys really need to grow up and stop being third graders about everything and when some says something just help them understand it the right way are other options that will do that if u do not want to. thats why these forums are here not to run ur mouth. and dont get on here saying oh u did when they said u were wrong. i wasnt, and im still not it helped my car ok. maybe if someone would have said that earlier i could have checked it and realized it doesnt work. mmy ecu didnt throw a code so i figured it was fine. thanks for the help

and what the fuck do u mean modern technology. were talking about a 90 model vehicle not a fucking 2010 with computers that talk to u and tell u that ur running lean r need a tune up so before u get on here with that shit realize what ur saying. r ecus barely tell us what is wrong u still have to replace shit and see if that works modern tech would tell u exactly what is wrong. have a good day jack ass

Wow…yet again you can’t hold back your attitude.

Guess where another one of your threads is going because you ran your mouth.