Well I got the b17 put in my 91 da. It runs really good however my fan now doesn’t kick on. I checked fuses are good the fan is good.
I am running jumpers obd0 to obd1 (ecu from the b17). I am getting a cel but someone told me I couldn’t pull the code… Is that true? He said because I’m obd0. Also my Speedo and odo don’t work and no vtec. Still a lot of sorting out to do! I guess my question is where do I start? Thanks in advance
Start by checking the codes and stop paying attention to whomever told you you can’t check codes now, they clearly don’t know what they’re talking about. Your harness should come with instructions on how to pull the code. Different designs of harness could work differently. It might work exactly like stock or it may just be an extra wire that needs to be grounded. Once you have the codes you can prioritize what to work on, obviously if there is something urgent then deal with that first.
Next move on to the speedo. It will cause a cel (VSS) and prevent VTEC from working. It may not be the only problem causing those symptoms but it should be dealt with, plus it’s likely very easy to fix. Most likely your speedo cable is simply not secured at one or both ends. Did you remove your gauge cluster during your swap? I’d start by pulling the cable out of the trans, then push the cable into the sheath toward the cluster and rotate the cable. If the cable end isn’t seated in the cluster you shroud be able to get it into place that way. Once you’re sure that end of the cable is seated put the other end back in the trans and be sure it’s all the way in. If that doesn’t fix it, try again and/or check the cable, cluster and speed sensor to make sure nothing is damaged.
Next I’d deal with the fan because you don’t want to troubleshoot a problem if the car is going to overheat. Follow the troubleshooting procedure in your Helms manual. You’ll want to test the switch and relays since you’ve already tested the fan. I assume you already wired up the switch during your swap?
If there are other codes deal with those.
[QUOTE=Colin;2328110]Start by checking the codes and stop paying attention to whomever told you you can’t check codes now, they clearly don’t know what they’re talking about. Your harness should come with instructions on how to pull the code. Different designs of harness could work differently. It might work exactly like stock or it may just be an extra wire that needs to be grounded. Once you have the codes you can prioritize what to work on, obviously if there is something urgent then deal with that first.
Next move on to the speedo. It will cause a cel (VSS) and prevent VTEC from working. It may not be the only problem causing those symptoms but it should be dealt with, plus it’s likely very easy to fix. Most likely your speedo cable is simply not secured at one or both ends. Did you remove your gauge cluster during your swap? I’d start by pulling the cable out of the trans, then push the cable into the sheath toward the cluster and rotate the cable. If the cable end isn’t seated in the cluster you shroud be able to get it into place that way. Once you’re sure that end of the cable is seated put the other end back in the trans and be sure it’s all the way in. If that doesn’t fix it, try again and/or check the cable, cluster and speed sensor to make sure nothing is damaged.
Next I’d deal with the fan because you don’t want to troubleshoot a problem if the car is going to overheat. Follow the troubleshooting procedure in your Helms manual. You’ll want to test the switch and relays since you’ve already tested the fan. I assume you already wired up the switch during your swap?
If there are other codes deal with those.[/QUOTE]
You are a life saver thank you once again. This gives me plenty to go on and its a huge relief that I can pull codes. It’s tough knowing who to listen to, which is why I like to come here. Unfortunately I didn’t get instructions with the jumpers so I’ll get a hold of rywire and go from there. First the fan I’m going to test the coolant temp sensor hoping that’s it. So fan, cel and Speedo in that order. I’m so close to vtec I can taste it lol. You have yourself a good day
Perhaps he has the instructions on his website?
[QUOTE=pkda9;2328117]
First the fan I’m going to test the coolant temp sensor hoping that’s it.[/quote]
Be very careful with your terminology - testing the temp “sensor” will get you no where as your temp “sensor” has ZERO to do with the cooling fan(s). You need to test your temp “switch”. Read the troubleshooting procedure in your manual.
[QUOTE=pkda9;2328117]
So fan, cel and Speedo in that order. I’m so close to vtec I can taste it lol. You have yourself a good day[/QUOTE]
No, that’s not the order I was trying to explain.
Ergg ok ok. I think you spelled it out clearly enough. The only reason I thought temp sensor was before the swap I was getting a code 6. But guess I’ll put it aside. I did find out how to pull codes now there are two extra wires on the harness it says to “jump” them together. Does that mean just make contact?
Lots of work to do. Since I already bought the temp sensor previously I think I’ll swap it out. But when I unscrew it is coolant going to flow out? Or should I drain it first?
Yeah, ECT Sensor is code 6, but again, that has zero to do with your fans. Swap it out if you like, or just return it, no sense in replacing it if you don’t need to. It’s not something that fails commonly so I wouldn’t look at it as “preventative maintenance”. Plus, if you were getting a code before the swap then that should go away if the sensor was bad since your new motor will have a different sensor on it, which is likely good. If you have the same code but with the different sensor then I’d expect the problem is wiring, not the sensor itself.
And yes, coolant will spill out. I’d drain a little coolant out from the drain on the bottom of the radiator, then loosen the ECT sensor (located on the side of the head) and see if it starts to leak out a lot. If so, then drain a little more coolant from the radiator and try again. Do that until you can remove the sensor without spilling coolant all over. Replace the sensor, top off with coolant and don’t forget to bleed and/or burp the system. I wouldn’t do this until 1) you check the codes and see if you’re still getting a code 6; and 2) until you confirm that your ECT switch is good. If your ECT switch turns out to be bad then you’ll want to replace the switch and sensor at the same time so you don’t make a mess twice and don’t have to bleed/burp twice.
I would assume that if there are 2 wires labeled “jump” that they should be connected to each other to check codes. That is one way the harnesses are setup, but I’ve also see them setup with a single wire that just needs to be grounded.
Code 17
Code 4 and 3
Guess one is speed sensor other is maybe map
Pulled my cluster out, made sure it’s connected at the back. I had a friend spin the tranny side of the speedo cable while I felt the other end, it spins. Since my speedo doesn’t move at all I think the vss is fine and it worked before the swap. But who knows.
I hooked the fan to the battery and it spun. On the temp switch the plastic was so brittle it broke in my hand. And the two prongs were bent together. I picked up a new one and I was going to change it tomorrow.
Also got a manual finally. Thanks for your help and input
When you’re checking the cable you need to be sure that not only the sheath of the cable is snapped into place on the back of the cluster but also that the inner cable itself is actually inserted into the speedometer. It has a square end that fits into a square hole on the back of the speedo. It’s possible for the sheath to be snapped to teh cluster but the cable itself not be situated in the hole in the speedo. I personally wouldn’t have removed the cluster because I hate removing that damn thing. If you fear the cable is not seated properly in the speedo you can grab the opposite end of the cable (it has to be removed from the VSS) and rotate it as you push the cable towards the cluster. You should be able to get it in place that way. Also, I’ve never tried it, but I supposed it would likely work - but to test the speedo itself and that the cable is seated properly I think you could stick the VSS end of the cable in a cordless drill and spin the cable to simulate being spun by the VSS.
Unless the VSS or speedo itself is bad then the cable should fix your code 17.
Code 3 is MAP, that’s probably a minor wiring issue from the swap.
Code 4 is CKP, that’s also probably a minor wiring issue from the swap.
Your service manual should provide the necessary troubleshooting procedures.
Sweet I think what you sggested might be it. I noticed the cable was pretty far in the housing… And Ya we hooked it to a power drill that does work. Anyway I just picked up a volt meter from Sears. Tonight I’ll test and swap out the temp switch. And try what you said shoving it in the dash.
On the code 3 and 4 I am actually not sure if it’s that or 34. Cause there was not much of a pause between 3 long and 4 short.
As far as I’m aware there is no such thing as a code 34 - but 3 long and 4 short would be code 34 if there is no pause between. If there is a pause between then it would be a code 30 AND a code 4 (however, again, to my knowledge there is no such thing as a code 30). Three fast flashes a long pause followed by four fast flashes would indicate code 3 AND code 4. Since that isn’t what you’re seeing then lets not settle on those two codes yet. I’d suggest you pull the codes again to make sure you got the right ones, no sense in troubleshooting the wrong ones. Post up a video if you need and we can help ensure you’re reading the flashes correctly.
Well the cable is done I believe. There is no spline on the cluster side. It’s just bare cable. So I’m looking for a new one. I changed the temp switch aaaand… Nothing. I was dissapointed so I think it’s the wiring somewhere.
I can’t see from that pic… There shouldn’t be splines though, the end of the cluster end should be square iirc.
As for the temp switch, I’m not surprised. I’ve never seen one fail personally. In my experience the relay is the most common failure point.
Ya I thought there was supposed to be something on the end of the cluster side. Anyway I found a new one at Napa. Put it in and it works. And vtec is crossing over as it should. Tomorrow I’ll be testing the relay and picking one up if I need it. Thanks again for your help
Won’t let me upload the video I took of my cel. It is definitely 43 though. No pause between. Seems there are more than a few things that could be. I’m gonna test the o2 sensor just because it came from the junk yard. Also the car is idling really rough… Surging between ~200 and 1000rpm. Even died on me once. I’m thinking there could be air in the coolant or possibly a vacuum leak.
Although I have cleared one engine code… My laundry list got a lot longer.
In case anyone was curious, or having similar problems… a follow up.
As far as the speedo goes, turned out the cable was bad, had been ripped when pulling motor. So I replaced with one for oreilly and unfortunately it is about a foot too long, so it kind of loops around. Anyway it works, and vtec engaged no problems there.
Then the car died on me. It sputtered and choked so I limped it home and scratched my head for a few days. I ended up realizing there was no spark, so replaced the cap and rotor in the distributor, as well as new plug wires. Huge difference to have the right wires on there! Runs better than it ever has. I also added an AEM intake I got for free, and vtec sounds and feels great. I am finally feeling like this was a good idea haha, it was a little touch and go for a while. Anyway Thanks for any help and I hope this helps someone in the future
