Hey guys,
Just had a curious question.
I have a Greddy SP2 exhaust for my 91 DA. I’m planning on buying a header to complete the package. However, I have an LS/V swap from a B18B. Should I order a header for a 91 DA or a DC2?
Should be pretty simple, however I cannot find accurate information.
Thanks in advance!
all b-series headers are the same
That’s not true, they are different, but they all have the same flange design so any b series header will bolt to any b series head.
If you order one for the chassis then you’re good to go and everything should bolt up fine. Unfortunately all of the headers for our chassis suck. You will want something with a 2.5" collector. Some of these will require that you use a traction bar or notch your crossmember for clearance. And you’ll also need to have your exhaust modified so it bolts up properly. I suggest getting a 2.5" catalytic converter (generic fitment) then have a muffler shop custom weld the cat so the header and exhaust bolt up nicely.
I agree with Colin, somewhat. I think it depends on which head you are bolting to. The reason for this is, the B20B is a bit bigger where the header bolts up. I’m pretty sure the B16 I’d a bit smaller. These are when you compare to the stock LS. Just speaking from experience.
What part is bigger or smaller? The flange / bolt pattern is exactly the same no matter if it’s b16a, b18a/b, b20, b18c…etc The only fitment problem you may run into is with clearance at the oil pan, nothing to do with how it bolts to the head.
Please post SPECIFICALLY what your “experience” was and what did not fit.
so what you need to know is the oil pan for a gsr is different than the ls pan.
best headers you can get is maybe the itr replica with the 2.5" collector as for cheap and starters.
you will have to cut up the stock front lower crossmember to clear the.headers and dent in the side of your stock ls oil pan.
Ground clearance makes the ITR replica a waste of money. My car is a very conservative and street friendly height and my ITR replica got destroyed fast.
[QUOTE=Colin;2294445]
What part is bigger or smaller? The flange / bolt pattern is exactly the same no matter if it’s b16a, b18a/b, b20, b18c…etc The only fitment problem you may run into is with clearance at the oil pan, nothing to do with how it bolts to the head.
Please post SPECIFICALLY what your “experience” was and what did not fit.[/QUOTE]
I recently swapped a JDM B20B into my G2. I had some OBX replica headers on my LS, which I thought would work perfectly on the fresh B20. The header had different bolt spacing at the head. I always thought the B20 head was essentially an LS head.
Something isn’t right about that, the bolt pattern should be the same. Do you have any photos to show how it didn’t line up? Were you able to get the exhaust manifold gasket to fit? I’m wondering if maybe the OBX flange was a little off and maybe one of the studs was a little off as well causing it not to fit on one motor but it did fit on the other.
What header did you end up using?
Luckily when i put my pacesetter on i didn’t have to notch the crossmember or run a traction bar. No issues at all
Hey guys,
Sorry it took so long to get back. i’ve been pretty busy this week.
Basically you are saying you’ll run into clearance issues if you run a 2.5" collector.
If I have a B18B bottom end is the pan the same as the B18A? I’m trying to avoid notching the crossmember. I can swap pans, my motor could use a new pan as far as cosmetics go haha.
The Pacesetter, what are some more details on that engine? I’d like to buy the closest direct fit as possible. With as many knockoffs as there are out there, I’m sure someone has had good experiences. Also, how was the finish on the pacesetter?
I was gonna go with an eBay brand of some type (don’t hate), as I don’t find it reasonable to spend 400-500 on one header.
Thanks guys! I know this topic may have been beaten to death, but some of my questions were left unanswered…
ALSO, in another thread unified said "Let’s not forget the dreaded front crossmember clearance issue… Virtually any 1-piece or 4-1 header will hit the crossmember and require notching or replacing it with a traction bar. "
Does the same apply to a tri-y header?
I just got a toda replica to replace my tri-y. Get the toda rep it clears the cross member and also clearance is great.
pics here: http://forums.g2ic.com/showthread.php?215920-Anyone-using-a-Toda-replica-header&p=2295832&posted=1#post2295832
I bought mine from here. I offered $290 and he accepted.
Toda replica: http://www.ebay.com/itm/111064096476?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
I took a hammer to my cross member to get the tri-y to fit. 4-5 hits and the tri-y had enough space to fit.