CIS bypass is not working.
Try this, do everything the same way to get into ready more, but do not get out of car, keep your foot on the clutch then try and remote start the car. 94
oops.
I’ve already tried that, made no difference … I’m assuming CIS stands for clutch interlock switch…tomorrow I will try disconnecting the wire I attached to the CIS from the remote start
I tried cutting the wire running to the CIS and put the clutch in while attempting to remote start, and there was no difference.
Also, I’m getting very frustrated with my 508D proximity sensor. It never just triggers the warn away, it always does the warn away, then full alarm. I’ve even cut the blue wire at the sensor and no difference, and yes I wired it up correctly… so frustrating
That makes no sense, if there is 12V+ output on the purple lead during remote start and the purple lead is connected to the starter side of the cut starter lead, [green to ign. switch side] and CIS is bypassed or clutch is stepped on, the engine should crank.
Questions…
Does the car start with the key?
Are you sure the purple and green are connected properly?
Have you added any starter cuts, besides the built in one?
I never liked the DEI prox sensor, always a pain in the ass.
The problem is the trigger inputs to the DEI alarms are multiplex, so what they trigger [warn a way or full alarming] depends on the length of the trigger pulse, a pulse shorter then .08 sec. triggers the warn a way, longer then .08 triggers full alarming, the warn a way output from the DEI prox is at first leas then .08 sec. but then right away it comes on longer then .08 sec. triggering full alarming.
I think the actual problem is the multiplex input to the alarm, the warn a way input should not be multiplex it should be for warn a way only, no matter how long the input trigger is. 94
With the proximity sensor, the two adjustment knobs spin freely, are they supposed to do this? The adjustments don’t seems to do anything, or hardly anything at all… If it won’t work for a zone outside the car, atleast I should be able to make the whole zone inside the car…
Yes car starts with key.
Don’t know if this means anything, but when the alarm is armed, and i try and start it with key, it makes the wierdest noises when trying to crank (never heard these noises before), also the tach jumps up to 4k instantly, then back down…
The adjustment knobs should not “spin freely”, if I remember right they move about 300 degrees from pin to pin.
Something is miswired with the remote start, if alarm is armed and you turn on the ign. the alarm should go off and there should be no sound at all, [other then siren and the click of the built in light flash relay] when you turn key to start. [starter cut].
Where is the system grounded and how was the ground lead attatched to the ground point? 94
no your wrong on this one . if the car is armed and someone tries to start it the alarm siren will still go off . you have to use the key fob to turn it off . or put the key in and hit the valet button /switch . this is why people shouldnt mess with alarms you can seriously damadge something real quick .
I did the install behind the driver in the rear quarter… The ground point is there, I scratched all the paint off, drilled a screw into some metal, it is attached there. Hmmm I wonder where my problem is… oh well maybe I’ll just leave it :S … seems like I could be hunting a ghost
why would you instal the alarm in the back of the car ?
It’s called stealth…so It’s virtually impossible to disable, along with a battery backup
no your wrong on this one
Who is wrong about what? 94