I’m wiring up my Viper 5900 with remote start and have come up with a couple question. First off with the White/Blue (-) activation input, how do I wire this, do I need to but a switch (like the valet switch)? I’m totally confused about what this wire does, the manual talks about the remote too. Please provide clarity if possible
Also (I know this is not advised), but for the neutral saftey input, If I ground it all the time, will this still allow the car to start, my teg is :manual:
…
Thanks
The white/blue, [neg.(-) activation input] is a remote start input, a momentary ground on that lead is the same as pressing the start button on your remote.
You do not need that lead, de-pin and remove it.
Honda/Acura cars can not be started unless in park or neutral, use the lead for a service switch, a small, on/off switch, [one side to ground the other to the neutral safety switch lead] installed will let you turn off remote start without putting system into valet.:D94
Okay now that that is out of the way I’ve come across more questions…
First anybody know where a good place to cut the starter wire is so I can connect the two wires from the alarm for starter kill.
Second, how do you reset a Viper 5900 to the factory settings, my siren has stopped chirping and won’t go off when the alarm is triggered, my lights flash and remote tell me but no siren. BTW it did work until i started messing around with settings and pushing buttons and stuff
At starter relay, [5 speed] or at A/T gear position switch, [automatic].
http://www.directeddealers.com/manuals/ig/viper/N5301V_05-06post.pdf
I know of no way to turn siren off compleatly, you can program the arm/disarm chirp on and off, you can program how long the chirps are.
Are you sure you have not put system into valet mode, [LED on solid]?:hmm:94
The siren is off completly, the crazy thing is that it was working just fine. No chirps no nothing. And yes I’m sure it is not in VALET mode… any suggestions :S
Check for power, [when alarm triggered] and ground, [at all times] at the siren.94
I have three things connected to the siren output. The supplied siren, a mini peizo siren and it’s also connected to the DEI talking module.
I triggered the alarm and tested the output of the siren wire and get 0 volts. Is my alarm dead already? How could this happen? What can I do?
Sure sounds like it, maybe too big a load.
What can you do…?
That depends on where you got the alarm and where is was installed. 94
Got the alarm on the net and installed it myself… so I guess I’m royally screwed
Can I do anything with the horn output wire?
Also on a somewhat unrelated point, I still have to do the starter kill, If I do it, and have to remove the brain, will the car still start (because the starter wire is cut and runs through the relay satellite)?
Thanks for all your help FCM :rockon: I don’t know what I’d do without you!
Edit: I was reading the manual and the horn output can be constant (programming option 1-12), but the next option (1-13) [horn function (full alarm only) / siren function (20/30/40/50 ms)] confuses me…
Of course I would have to use a relay, so if this option works, could you provide a diagram of how to wire up a relay for this purpose?
Yes, you should be able to use the horn output to control a relay and have the relay supply the 12V+ to the siren, piezo and voice module and program it for constant output, menu #1, [1/12].
Relay wiring…
#30 - from 12V+ constant, [fused @ 5A].
#85 - from 12V+ constant, [can be jumper from #30].
#86 - from horn output, [H4/2 brown].
#87 - to sirens and voice module.
Menu #1, [1/13] selects between the horn output working only when alarm is triggered or also for arm/disarm and warn a way chirps
Car will not start if you remove alarm unless starter lead is reconnected, or a jumper is installed between the green and purple leads. 94
I tried wiring up that relay and it keeps on blowing the fuse. Are you sure it’s the right configuration, no grounds? It’s negative input and positive output. Would the first one on this page be right (http://www.the12volt.com/relays/page1.asp) I tried it aswell but it blew the fuse too. I’m wondering if I have a short somewhere in the wire to the main siren?
The 12 volt link is the same as the wiring I gave you except #85 and #86 are switched and that makes no diff.
If it is the fuse on the power lead going to #30 that blows then yes it sounds like a short, [would be the reason the siren output went in the first place] maybe not a short in the line but a short in one of the siren or the voice module.
Disconnect the three from each other and try them one by one, once you find the short, wherever it is, try the siren output again, not sure if the siren output on your unit was short protected.
The other possibility is that the load, [siren, piezo and voice module] is more then 5A, but that’s unlikely.94
So there was a short in the wiring to the siren, somehow the two wire’s both got exposed and were touching :getsome: … I guess it did have short protect, because everything now is working from the siren output. :rockon: thanks so much FCM
I do have another problem though, the remote start is not working, it activate’s, but doesn’t activate the starter. I cut the starter wire after the large 6p connector under the dash, the starter kill works but the remote start doesn’t. When I was testing the starter kill, with alarm armed, I put the key into the ign and turn it, there are some high pitched noises and the tach goes a little nuts for a bit, but the starter never activate’s so I guess it works… any idea on what is causing the starter not to activate on remote start? Thanks again FCM for all your help, I don’t think I would have even attempted this install without knowing I could count on your advice
Which “direction” did you connect the purple and green leads, make sure the green is connected to the ign. switch side of the cut starter wire and the purple goes to the starter side of the cut starter wire. 94
Yes, the green lead is connected to the wire that goes to the key. I’m pretty sure they are connected right.
just a question you didnt hook up the green and blue door triggers to the ign did you .
lol nope, I’m not that noob…I used the heavy guage wires from the relay satellite
ok just had to ask lol:angel:
Try re-programing tach. 94
I just did that (for the first time), no difference, it did accept the tach as the LED came on solid. I did a voltage test on the purple wire, and it is constant at 12.4 volts, when I activate remote start, it goes to 12. When I actually turn the car on with the key it goes down to 10 or lower, then up to the usual 14. Does this help to trouble shoot?
Also, everything is connected that needs to be connected right? Because remote start activate’s (as lights come on in guage cluster and I hear the fuel pump) it just doesn’t crank.
Also not sure if this matters but it came to mind, that I connected all 3 heavy gauge red (well one red/white) power wires to the same ign constant power wire (white / black)