[ATTACH=JSON]{“data-align”:“none”,“data-size”:“small”,“data-attachmentid”:1117534}[/ATTACH][ATTACH=JSON]{“data-align”:“none”,“data-size”:“small”,“data-attachmentid”:1117535}[/ATTACH][ATTACH=JSON]{“data-align”:“none”,“data-size”:“small”,“data-attachmentid”:1117536}[/ATTACH][ATTACH=JSON]{“data-align”:“none”,“data-size”:“small”,“data-attachmentid”:1117537}[/ATTACH][ATTACH=JSON]{“data-align”:“none”,“data-size”:“small”,“data-attachmentid”:1117538}[/ATTACH][ATTACH=JSON]{“data-align”:“none”,“data-size”:“medium”,“data-tempid”:“temp_45272_1537617058856_616”}[/ATTACH][ATTACH=JSON]{“data-align”:“none”,“data-size”:“medium”,“data-tempid”:“temp_45273_1537617065416_544”}[/ATTACH][ATTACH=JSON]{“data-align”:“none”,“data-size”:“medium”,“data-tempid”:“temp_45274_1537617074756_454”}[/ATTACH][ATTACH=JSON]{“data-align”:“none”,“data-size”:“medium”,“data-tempid”:“temp_45275_1537617083036_233”}[/ATTACH][ATTACH=JSON]{“data-align”:“none”,“data-size”:“medium”,“data-tempid”:“temp_45276_1537617087960_477”}[/ATTACH][ATTACH=JSON]{“data-align”:“none”,“data-size”:“medium”,“data-tempid”:“temp_45257_1537616950969_929”}[/ATTACH] Alternator came from 91-95 Acura Legend, 5 rib pulley.
It is a 110amp alternator.
Grind the bottom of the top bracket(it will hit the alternator body) and drill a hole on the top bracket.
Use a m12 bolt(with split lock washer and thick washer) to the upper hole of the alternator.
Grind the bottom of the alternator hole so it could slide to the right. The top mounting hole will hit the top bracket, grinding is necessary.
Reuse the stock belt. Slide the belt to the pulley in an angle without the bottom bolt attached yet. After belt is in, maneuver the mount and the hole to line up so the long bolt can go in…
Im now getting constant 14.6volts at idle.
Im working on rewiring the 4 pin plug, Im showing a battery icon on my dash.
Aside from that everything is working.
I will update once i got time to work on that.
Do you have pictures of the face of both alternator bodies.? Might have been able to just swap the windings from the Legend into the Teg body, instead of cutting up stuff.
Many cars, especially older ones like ours, don’t charge full voltage at idle. That’s why you might see cars at a stop light with their headlights kind of dim or flickering. I can visually see my headlights dim, when I hit the brake pedal at idle. In my case, it probably has more to do with a (many) dirty grounds or corroded old connections.
For me its the sound system. I only have 1 10" sub. My voltage and engine rev Drops everytime the bass drops even at a listening volume. My voltage would fluctuate at 13.2 to low 12 at idle. High amp alternators is little pricey for me. For $27 at the yard i have a 110 amp.
I’ve replaced the one that on the valve cover to the chassis, and the main battery ground that runs from the battery terminal, down underneath the battery tray (you’ll have to remove it) to chassis, and then from that same point to the the engine/transmission ground. The main battery one appeared to be about 8 gauge. I don’t remember what the valve cover’s ground size was, I just also made it 8 gauge.
Ok I just replaced the ground battery with OEM. Is this an 8 gauge? The Valve cover to chassis is also OEM which i dont’ think its an 8 gauge. Its smaller than the Battery ground. I’ve sanded the surfaces to bare metal as well and I’m still getting slight dim. But It did get better though. You think I should go thicker on the Valve to chassis ground to eliminate dimming?
The usual. Stepping on the brakes only. Sound system is fine. Adding the OEM grounds did make a slight difference. The dimming is not as much after installing the OEM grounds. Guess I can live with that. Is there any ground points that we can replace to eliminate the dimming?
I replaced all my wires with 4awg. Added additional ground points. Battery to chasis, engine block to body and transmission to body.
You can monitor your voltage with those phone charger with voltage meter(2 in 1). If it drops 13.8 at idle, alternator is not supplying good power.
I’ve found out why I had dimming when stepping on the brake. I’ve recently installed a new starter. I’ve cleaned/sanded the ground terminal that goes on the starter. After taking for a drive, NO dimming at all. Not even slight as I had before.
Just to clarify this alternator swap , I’ve had the legend alternator on my car for a few months now. What needs to be done is to slot the holes on the upper alternator bracket in order to allow the top alternator bolt to line up. I also swapped alternator pulleys in order to keep the 4 rib. No other physical mods to the alternator are required. However, the battery light was still a problem, and even more serious, the alternator will not charge at high rpms. Many people probably would not notice this but its very apparent when dataloging. Caused me issues on the dyno. The fix for this is to de-pin the alternator plug and insert a wire with the matching female pin into the empty hole on the plug. The da runs a 3 wire alternator where the legend requires 4. Once you find the proper wire to insert, you tap this wire into the yellow/black wire on the harness. This will send power to the required spot on the alternator and will fix the charging/battery light issue. Hope this helps people in the future:manual:
