Anyone else have a high current drawing stereo system and a stock alternator? I have a 4000watt stereo and (1) 1.0 Farad Cap and (1) 0.5 Farad Cap. Lights dim a little when the bass hits real hard however i’ve been running it for 1 year without problems. I have had some people say i would burn through alternators however i have yet to see it happen. Just curious if any has had problems with their system killing the little 80 amp alt on these G2’s
First, what is the make and model of your amps?
If it truly is a 4000W RMS system and it was driven to it’s full output not only would it burn out the alt. the batt. and caps could not keep up.
With that said, if your only using 500W RMS or less of that 4000W under normal use, then the stock alt. would have no problem.
The dimming issue may be because of wiring, [power or grounds for the amps].
So make and models of amps, what gauge power and ground are you using, what type of fuse(s) on the power leads for the amp, where are the caps mounted, to what are they wired and how?
94
You are correct it is not true 4000watt RMS. I have 800watt 4 channel Boss War Amp and a Boss 3000watt Mono Amp. I am running about 2000 rms total.
make sure you have the correct gauge wires.
i had a pretty large set up and only had a 8 (?) guage wire for the battery to the amp. maybe a 4 guage…
and when bass hit hard on mine it dimmed the lights. but then i switched the power wire, and it stopped.
GL bro
That does not help, I need model numbers
The 4ch is a W475 or 575, 675, 775, 875, 975 which one is it?
As for the mono amp I have no idea, maybe a C3000D
or maybe one of the blade series, I need the model numbers to be able to help.
Also the make and model of speakers/sub(s) the amps are driving would also help.
Oh and take my word for it, if your making 1000W RMS I would be surprised. :whisper:94
Okay i really do not know the model numbers however i am not sure why that would make such a difference. The lights dimming are not unbearable as you can barely notice it. I have 0/1 gauge running to both caps and both amps from the caps… all grounded the same to the chassis. Really i just wanted to know if anyone has gone through alternators with a setup similar, or any stereo doesn’t matter. Current draw at full output when bass hits reaches 140amps (checked with an amp clamp) and i know this alt. only puts out 80 amps. Are there any alternator upgrades for these.
With model numbers I can calculate current requirements.
You say it’s 140A and as I figured your making about 1000W RMS, 1/0 cable is probably overkill but it can’t hurt.
With the wattage produced you should not have dimming of the lights, the batt. and caps should be able to keep up with the current demand.
Music is dynamic so the average current draw is probably closer to 70A, and again the batt. and caps should be able to keep up, I would be looking at a wiring issue, probably ground.
Even if you can live with the dimming lights your not getting the “most” out of your system, if the lights are starving for current then the amps are also and that will translate into poor SQ when system is cranked especially with bass response.
Are you grounding the cap to the same place the amp is grounded?
Are the ground leads as short as possible?
Have you “beefed up” the batt. to chassis ground?
Have you taken your car and had the charging system checked, free at most batt./alt. shops.
Drawing more current then the alt. can supply is always going to be hard on the alt. and over time it will take it’s toll, maybe your 80A alt. is only putting out 60A-70A because the brushes are worn out, only a proper load check can tell for sure. :hmm:94
dont waste you money and time on a cap they are nothing more than bandaid’s you need a good under hood batt a high output alt and a second batt in the rear of the car like a agm style and dont forget to do the “big3” upgrade
Will do, thanks for the info.