Ok i have a b17 with like 170,000miles on it. I change the oil and filter religiously every 3,000 miles sometimes more often with castrol syntec 5-30. So I have about 2,000 miles since my last oil change and i had to add about HALF a Quart of oil so far. I drive hard and rev high everyday after warming up of course. People have told me it smokes only when i get into vtec and sometimes when let off the gas (i think it’s richness rather than oil). I dont leak oil in anyway and i know that because i steamed my engine and it is still shiny and clean free of leaking oil and other fluids.
Do you think half a quart in 2k miles is a lot of oil being burned? Vtecs are supposed to burn oil, but at what rate is normalm (probably a hard question to answer cuz there’s a lot of variables)?
Do you think i would burn more oil if i switched to mobil 1 synthetic anti wear 5-30? im thinkin of doing that on my next change.
I am NOT asking if burning oil is normal cuz that is obviously been asked before many times
Some people say honda engines “use” oil not burn it. Black smoke usually means runing rich. Blue usually means burning oil.
I’ve just recently needed to add 2 quarts /5000km!! I’m really worried. The PCV Valve could be not working properly causing oil to be sent back into the intake and burning oil. I don’t leak any oil either, and can’t see any smoke out the rear, but one guy said that there was some at high rpm.
I think the amount of oil that you’re losing is ok for an engine w/ 170,000mi. My car has less then 100,000mi and I really hope it’s just the PCV valve(I can’t find it because I don’t knwo what it looks like so I’ll have to bring it to a dealership I guess).
I have noticed that between oil changes where i wind it up a lot i use a lot more oil than if i don’t wind it up. also I have followed friends with hondas where they will give a little puff if they redline it but otherwise you could stick your face in the tailpipe and you wouldn’t smell any oil burning. just my $0.02
The way I look at it is this: our cars are old. My car is 12 years old. It has 103,000 miles. It’s gonna use some oil. I have a few small leaks. The thing is to always check your oil and keep it filled. If you do that, no harm done.
Originally posted by JH4DB536
[B]Ok i have a b17 with like 170,000miles on it. I change the oil and filter religiously every 3,000 miles sometimes more often with castrol syntec 5-30. So I have about 2,000 miles since my last oil change and i had to add about HALF a Quart of oil so far. I drive hard and rev high everyday after warming up of course. People have told me it smokes only when i get into vtec and sometimes when let off the gas (i think it’s richness rather than oil). I dont leak oil in anyway and i know that because i steamed my engine and it is still shiny and clean free of leaking oil and other fluids.
Do you think half a quart in 2k miles is a lot of oil being burned? Vtecs are supposed to burn oil, but at what rate is normalm (probably a hard question to answer cuz there’s a lot of variables)?
Do you think i would burn more oil if i switched to mobil 1 synthetic anti wear 5-30? im thinkin of doing that on my next change.
I am NOT asking if burning oil is normal cuz that is obviously been asked before many times [/B]
Have you read your owner’s manual? For MOST conditions you are supposed to be running 10W30 due to the GS-R’s higher revs. If your motor is only using half a quart driving hard with thin 5W30 oil with that many miles you’re laughing! I intend on keeping my GSR for a few years yet and although it uses very little oil if any (only 80 miles on it) if it only uses as much as yours by the time I’m at 170K miles I’ll be a happy guy.
I would not go with the Mobil 1 with that many miles due to the higher detergency rate of the Mobil 1; you may encounter leaks that were previously plugged up by regular oil and carbon.
If your motor is only using half a quart driving hard with thin 5W30 oil with that many miles you’re laughing!
I’m not joking lol that’s what it is. Maybe ill put in mobil 1 10-30 instead of 5-10. Im already running full synthetic anyway so there should be too much of a problem.
5-30 feels a lot better than 10-30 in my opinion. The crank feels like it rotates more easily and smoother.
ANOTHER QUESTION:
How do i reduce fuel pressure or lean out my mixture, cuz i am running rich and i wanna run stoich. I have a stock FPR but i wanna know if there is any other way? Do i need B&m FPR or a VAFC?? Is the stock FPR adjustable?
with my old head i used to burn about a quart a month, or <1000miles. i suspect the new grommets and seals helped a bunch. about a month and havent noticed any loss.
btw, JH4DB536, why is yours db5? i know there are db1-9, but according to the manual theres only db1, db2, and da9. i see youre in cali so is it a regional thing or something
I’m not joking lol that’s what it is. Maybe ill put in mobil 1 10-30 instead of 5-10. Im already running full synthetic anyway so there should be too much of a problem.
5-30 feels a lot better than 10-30 in my opinion. The crank feels like it rotates more easily and smoother.
ANOTHER QUESTION:
How do i reduce fuel pressure or lean out my mixture, cuz i am running rich and i wanna run stoich. I have a stock FPR but i wanna know if there is any other way? Do i need B&m FPR or a VAFC?? Is the stock FPR adjustable? [/B]
I wouldn’t trust a getto Autometer or similar O2 sensor based air/fuel gauge as they can be quite innacurate. Also, I don’t know how people can drive around with little green, orange and red flashing lights going off all the time in their faces. If you know any speed-shops with a Lambda Meter they can properly tune a VAFC for you much better than the Autometer A/F IMO.
I wouldn’t trust a getto Autometer or similar O2 sensor based air/fuel gauge as they can be quite innacurate. Also, I don’t know how people can drive around with little green, orange and red flashing lights going off all the time in their faces. If you know any speed-shops with a Lambda Meter they can properly tune a VAFC for you much better than the Autometer A/F IMO. [/B]
:werd:
and until then, much better to be safe and run rich than try and even it out yourself and chance running lean on the high rpm’s. Go to a shop with a motec lambda meter(or equivalent) and buy a new o2 sensor unless replaced recently and have them accurately tune your car with the proper a/f ratio. If you wanna get your money’s worth though and multitask, get some camgears or something else that requires dynotuning cause they’re prolly gonna put your car on the dyno when they tune the a/f ratio anyway so you mine as well get your money’s worth.
btw, JH4DB536, why is yours db5? i know there are db1-9, but according to the manual theres only db1, db2, and da9. i see youre in cali so is it a regional thing or something
actually im a db2, the 536 part is the end #'s (the production number) i didnt include the 2 in my name cuz i forgot i guess
Looks like im gonna have to get a b&m fpr + gauge or vafc soon. I got a new o2 sensor like 5k miles ago so i dont think ill be needing any for a while. I dont have an AF meter but i know im runing rich because i can smell it in the exhaust plus my plugs could be a bit more brownish. I have have a str8 pipe on so i think i could figure a lot more out since the exhaust doesnt lie.
Dyno tuning would be nice but i dont have the time or $$ for that nor do i have these adjustable mods YET.
