5w30 castrol syntec
[QUOTE=ross93;2143722]castrol german? is it castrol syntec?
link? please[/QUOTE]
No, it is the 0w30 and says Made In Germany on the back.
There is a 24 page thread about it here…
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=718643#Post718643
i use 10w30 mobil1 full synthetic w/ a fram extra guard filter in my teg
Been using Mobil 1 since it’s readily available. Next oil change, I’m using ENEOS and then Amsoil since I found a place that stocks both of them locally. My F20c burns ~a quart every 5K…:ghetto:
jw why would you use 0w30? is there a theory behind that?
it recommends 5w30. i cant remember putting that in anything but a vw and maybe some new car. and ive done way to many oil changes
[size=7]you guys should mention how much you guys spend as well[/size]
used to use quakerstate syn, but was always very dirty at 2k miles. so when castrol came out with EDGE i switched as i am a castrol fan but didnt not like the syntec because it is not a full synthetic oil. i change my oil every 2k at the most before i sold the civic. i have a ford ranger that ran 20w-50 all it life up untill i got it at 350,000 with 5k oil changes and now that i have it i change the oil every two weeks and its about to hit 370k and going strong. but i get free valvoline oil and filters so it gets max life 5w-20 everytime. when i get the teg running im probly gona change the oil every week to two weeks with valvoline syn and honda oil filter. but thats just me i hate seeing dirty oil. but the way i see it the more you change it the healthier the motor is. just my $0.2 :shrug:
I use Supertech Oil from Walmart and also Supertech oil filters… does the job for me. I’ve read somewhere that Frams oil filters are junk. They compared Frams and Supertech and Supertech came out far superior than the Fram junks…
mobil 1 is a good brand and it’s pretty cheap compare to other synthetic oils
Penzoil 5w-30, Right now fram filters but im lookin for somethin with an anti drain back valve( any suggestions ?) Oil changes cost bout 30-35. And with my freshly rebuilt engine i’m changing every 1000km just to be safe. After reading up on different oils, I’ve come to the conclusion that the more frequent the change the better. Higher mileage oils apparently can break down quicker due to more additives, im not sure of this theory but its what im going with right now until I research it some more.
you are wasting oil.
quakerstate 10-30 w/ hamp oil filter
EZ12A: Guess I should have also noted the engine only has 2200km’s on it, I might be wasting oil but I will sleep better at night knowing that even if my engine blows tomorrow, wasting a ton of money and time rebuilding it, that it wont be because i was too lazy to change the oil 
It was also recommended to me by many people to change the oil soon after the initial break-in.
I do plan in the future to extend the length of oil change intervals
I used Royal Purple 5w30 for a little while, but then it started burning it. So, since I was on a budget anyway, I switched to Mobile 1 5w30 and that seems to have fixed the problem. I put some Mobile 1 0w30 in last oil change since Walmart was out of the large jugs of 5w30. Seems to be working good so far… might stick to the 0w30. Also, I use NAPA Gold oil filters.
For those using 10w30… why not 5w30? 80%+ of engine wear occurs at startup.
I don’t really use anything special in terms of oil, usually Castrol, but I can say I’ve only been using Baldwin filters in all my cars for awhile now. Hard to find in stores but you can order them in bulk online and come highly recommended by fanatics of all different makes and models.
[QUOTE=phatcardesignz;2144980]I used Royal Purple 5w30 for a little while, but then it started burning it. So, since I was on a budget anyway, I switched to Mobile 1 5w30 and that seems to have fixed the problem. I put some Mobile 1 0w30 in last oil change since Walmart was out of the large jugs of 5w30. Seems to be working good so far… might stick to the 0w30. Also, I use NAPA Gold oil filters.
For those using 10w30… why not 5w30? 80%+ of engine wear occurs at startup.[/QUOTE]
my manual recommends 10w30 for my B17a in a hotter climate, which is where im at
I have always used dino oil. I have used castrol gtx, valvoline, pennzoil, quaker state, shell, chevron and now mostly valvoline maxlife or pennzoil high mileage. Most of these were picked up at less then a dollar a quart when kragen auto used to have those oil coupons. I change my oil about every 5k miles. There is 193k on car and I get an average of 33 miles per gallon. Just passed smog recently with original cat, 2 year old O2 sensor, and last tuned up a few years ago. Off the shelf dino oil works for me.
Is it different from the above in the GS-R manual? The manual I have says that 5w30 is preferred, but 10w30 is usable depending on where you live. I’ve just always wondered why anyone wouldn’t run 5w30 in a DA? Especially when it is recommended and usually just as available as 10w30 (and doesn’t cost more and may even save a little gas).
All of the information that I have read on oil sites and forums as well as even on oil bottles and in car manuals supports running an oil with the lowest recommended winter weight (even in a warm environment). Generally, the broader the temperature rating, the better the oil. The 0w30 Mobile 1 that I am using stated on the bottle that it increased fuel mileage (don’t ask me how you could document that) and that it exceeded all 5w30 ratings (manufacturers just don’t list it as a recommendation since it is only more recently available in few select synthetics and actually can’t be made from a dino oil… it also didn’t exist back when our cars were made). With 80%+ of engine wear occurring at startup, you would want the oil to flow as easily as possible on startup.
just put some castrol syntec 5w30 was useing the high mileage shyyt well see how this treats the old acura and always the napa filter best deal buy far price $23 and $4.50
[QUOTE=phatcardesignz;2145260]Is it different from the above in the GS-R manual? The manual I have says that 5w30 is preferred, but 10w30 is usable depending on where you live. I’ve just always wondered why anyone wouldn’t run 5w30 in a DA? Especially when it is recommended and usually just as available as 10w30 (and doesn’t cost more and may even save a little gas).
All of the information that I have read on oil sites and forums as well as even on oil bottles and in car manuals supports running an oil with the lowest recommended winter weight (even in a warm environment). Generally, the broader the temperature rating, the better the oil. The 0w30 Mobile 1 that I am using stated on the bottle that it increased fuel mileage (don’t ask me how you could document that) and that it exceeded all 5w30 ratings (manufacturers just don’t list it as a recommendation since it is only more recently available in few select synthetics and actually can’t be made from a dino oil… it also didn’t exist back when our cars were made). With 80%+ of engine wear occurring at startup, you would want the oil to flow as easily as possible on startup.[/QUOTE]
yeah, it also recommends 10w30 on the air filter cover. GS-R is recommend 10w30, it’s not a big deal with me.