another awesome high idle thread!! Read me!

ASSISTANCE Stock Engine-Bay Components
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Long story short I’ve been having idling problems since i got the car! It’s a 91 Da b20b4 swap. B18a1 intake manifold 90-91 version and b18a1 exhaust manifold. the car has had many different idle’s depending on what I’ve done and changed on it and here are the symptoms I’ve gone through!

Symptoms: high idle 1500-2500 not bouncing just depening on if it was a cold start or warm idle. car bog down below 3500 rpm and then come to life after 3500. car would sputter randomly and was wasting gas like a v12

Taking off the IACV anc blocking it off has made the car idle normal at 800-900 (normal compared to what it use to idle at) It’s giving the IACV code so I installed a good / used IACV and now my idle is back at 1500 even with the Idle adjustment screw all the way closed.

My distributor is not fully advanced so it’s not that

So here’s what I’ve changed from maintenance to solving problems

New distributor

All new vac hoses

Throttle body gasket and Intake manifold gasket

Thermostat (did the bleeding process mulitple times to make sure no air was trapped)

Spark plug wires and spark plugs (multiple times on the plugs)

Fitv is competley blocked off

o2 sensor.

fuel pump and fuel strainer

I am getting about 30-35 mpg on the freeway so It’s good now but since i’ve connected the IACV again its idling at 1500-2000 so now im killing gas again.

My next move is to change the intake manifold to a b18a1 92-93 and I have a new throttle body that im going to use also after that if it doesn’t change than I’ve litteraly changed every single part on the car that has to do with air entering the engine besides the head it self. Let me know what you guys have to say and if you’ve done this your self. Also going to put a new fuel pressure regulator

The only code I’m throwing is the egr code cause I’m using a auto Pr4 ecu at the moment.

Also my fuel level low light stays on no matter what level fuel I have, I’ve changed the gas gauge, fuel floater and fuel pump. The fuel floater was pretty new my friend just bought it (new) not too long ago for his integra and the fuel pump as well he Is using a fuel cell now so he gave me these parts.

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Wow… i must say youre on the right path. I read the title and was going to suggest a few things but then you already listed them. The only thing i can think of is possibly timing. When you installed the new distributer did you set the timing correctly with a timing light?

Also, see if you can get your hands on the correct ecu and see if that helps any.

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get the correct ecm in there. the ecm expects egr and will base its fuel trim on it. that could be your whole problem. regardless, it needs to be disqualified as a possibility before moving forward

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another thing you can try is, with the vehicle running, cover the throttle bore completely with your hand. if the engine doesn’t spudder and die, there is an outside source of air entering the engine.

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in this order:
get the correct ecm
adjust idle FOLLOWING THE FACTORY PROCEDURE TO THE LETTER
cover the throttle bore with the engine running to determine if any leaks are present
if engine dies (no leaks) i would highly suspect an iacv system issue. this when you would need to start back probing pins

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ok so here are the other things I’ve done since my post, new throttle body completely taken apart and cleaned very good, installed that along with a new gasket.

I made a new FITV block off plate cause my last one kind of thin and this new one is much thicker and has better sealing capabilites. silicon and sealed.

blocked off the air boost valve and have the vac tubes capped and clamped.

new Iacv gasket and new o ring on the idle adjust screw.

here is the news on how it’s running now! so when I cover the throttle body now it dies, before it wouldn’t die it would stumble around. idle is still 1500rpm right now as we speak I’m doing the idle adjust procedure hopefully it works!! thanks for the responses!! I tried Honda tech and all those guys did was say non sense that had nothing to do with anything I asked haha

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I also have two ecu’s but each ecu throws it’s own awesome code, my 5spd pr4 throws Baro sensor code I’m assuming came from a car with an external sensor because it’s not present in that ecu. my other pr4 ecu is a auto trans ecu so it throws egr code but no Baro because it has it internally. I would try to solder the Baro into the 5spd ecu but I don’t really have a steady hand for tedious work like that and I don’t want to be stuck with two ecus throwing the baro sensor code

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get a working 5 spd ecm. you need one anyways

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I’ve been looking for one but every time I have time to search for one its already sold or even go to the junk yard and they are taken from the car already or automatic. I did the idle adjustment and its still idling at 1500 rpm. I warmed up the car fully unplugged the IACV and adjusted the idle screw, shut the car down plugged in the IACV reset the ecu and started the car and the idle was higher than 1500 at this point so I had to close the idle screw all the way again to bring it back to 1500.

Also when I unplug the iacv the idle drops to like 600 and stays there

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ran a can of carb cleaner on every source of vacuum and no change in idle so I’ve gotten rid of all leaks and still the only code I have is EGR but even with the 5 speed pr4 ecu the idle doesn’t change from 1500.

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check your valve timing first. if that’s spot on, try adjusting ignition timing. use a timing light. and make sure you jump the srvice connector when adjusting. and make sure it is in fact jumped, as the pins do corrode and can make poor contact. sometimes you have to really jam the paperclip in there.

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[QUOTE=b20 ant;2307900]

Also when I unplug the iacv the idle drops to like 600 and stays there[/QUOTE]

this is good. at least you know the iacv is doing something

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I’m going to be doing the mechanical and ignition timing this weekend, I also have to change the lower radiator hose. I’ll let you know how it goes! Thank you again for the help and information

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Ok so I had my good friend Solder the baro sensor into the 5 speed PR4 and It works great! no more check engine light at all, no egr or baro haha. car is running great as I have also fixed the idle issue and can now run the car with a IACV, I changed the intake manifold because I found a crack where the IACV bolts up and thats where the leak was coming from. It also had a tiny hole next to where the PCV Vac tube is, put a new OBD1 PR4 intake manifold and all is well. I’m starting my K24 build thread so anyone can feel free to check that out as well

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glad you got it sorted