i have a chance to jump on a b20a block for dirt cheap. i was wondering what differences there are compared to the b18a/b’s. i might keep the crank [same stroke as the crower] or swap in my spare LS crank and get aftermarket internals. my main question is are the parts interchangeable?
Is b20a a typo? I hope so.
ok i know everyone says the b20a motor is the motor honda wish they never made, but i want to know why. the one main reason is the rod/stroke ratio, but i found out the length of the stroke on a b20a is the same on a crower stroker kit. so the rod to stroke ratio will be exactly the same. if i choose to use the b20a’s crank i will replace with aftermarket rods and pistons and get the whole block balanced and everything. if the block is horrible because of something other than the rod to stroke ratio let me know, thats the info i need. and are the blocks the same as a b18a minus the crank, rods and pistons? give me some solid info guys. i dont like being told ‘dont do that just cuz its bad’ i want to know why.
sorry for the long post but i know everyone will say its the worst motor, but answers to WHY is it the worst block. thanks in advance
I always heard about oil leaks from that motor. In stock form didn’t it only get to about 130hp? and 150? Just not worth to get IMO, more hassle it sounds like.
Originally posted by rcnacura
In stock form didn’t it only get to about 130hp?
yah but our LS’s come 130 stock too.
well i still need to know if the b20a is just a stroked out b18a/b.
and…
if the crank is the same as on the DOHC b20a’s and on the SOHC b20a
somebody please help me out. im getting the block for 50 dollars
Daym thats pretty cheap. Get it regardless and just use it. Keep your old b18 for a backup, until the b20a gives you problems, If it does. Can’t go wrong with $50.00 bucks. Thats like clubbin money.
yup pretty cheap. if the b20a is just a stroked LS, ill totally rebuild it. but if the block is different from DOHC to SOHC versions i dont want to waste 50 bucks. like you said, its clubbn money that i wouldnt want to lose. shiet u cant go racing every friday or saturday night LOL
here try these guys…they mostly discuss about b20b/z but i found this little info on the b20a hope it helps ya 
hey RONIN thanks sooo much for that link.
i’ve raced a g2 w/ that engine. My car was full interior, passenger, stock (except for intake). He had exhaust, intake, lowered etc…only beat me by a few feet. NOT worth it.
maybe your just a better driver than he is. there could be many variables. but i think im going to get the crank and put it in a b20b/z = 2.2 liter b-series :inlove: well of course that would b my race motor only due to the long stroke.
Will that work if you put the b20a crankshaft with the longer stroke in the smaller b20b engine? Smaller meaning the piston stroke hieght?
Originally posted by 2simplex
there could be many variables. but i think im going to get the crank and put it in a b20b/z = 2.2 liter b-series :inlove: well of course that would b my race motor only due to the long stroke.
I wouldn’t rev high on a motor with that setup. Even with upgraded rods and pistons, think of your sleeves with that R/S ratio. That would be some major strees if you later on ended up adding a VTEC head on that block hoping to rev higher. Bad idea in my opinion.
Edit: Well since you are using it for race-only, you are not concerned with the reliability requirments of a street driven motor.
rcnacura: yah it can be done. all ill need is custom rods to make everything work properly.
ive: im not going VTEC, the most ill rev it to is 8500. but the motor will usually see about 8k on the rpms. everything on the block will be upgraded to accomidate the higher revs on the nonVTEC block.
Doesn’t seem like its really worth it IMO, money wise. If you have to get pistons, rods, rod bolts, higher red ecu…might as well just go with the b20b/z block. More dependable don’t you think?
actually i am planning to go the b20b/z block. but in addition i will be using the crank from the b20a. thus turning it into a torquey 2.2 liter B-series. reliablity went out the window when i decided to stick with nonVTEC. for the price i could have a b16a with some other stuff but id rather stick with a nonVTEC motor since everyone looks down on them if their not FI. which is why im sticking all motor.
BTW: i was going to throw aftermarket pistons, rods, etc in the b18a until this little idea popped in my head. so im going to spend roughly the same for internals. but the blocks is different story.
Yes I totally agree with your all motor setup, but I still think the b20a is not a good block to use becuase of design, and its ability to not rev that high. Even your 8500 redline mark seems high for that engine. Currently I’m sticking with my all motor b20b setup. I’m expecting about 187-198hp at the flywheel according to Desktop Dyno, but that thing is made for american cars, so we’ll see. But good luck and have fun. Let us know how it goes!
true it the r/s ratio i think would be the only problem. but since im going to an automotive school i should get more comfortable in tearing down and rebuilding a block every X amount of miles. i still think if i build up the internals with a block girdle 8500 shouldnt be too bad. but i wont know till i try it. im assuming your b20b has a vtec head with those high HP ratings. what have you got in it?
No vtec, live in cali=illegal. Those HP figure are at the flywheel…oh how I wish they where at the wheels, I’m expecting about 155-165 at the wheels hopefully. This is probably going to be an ongoing process, since I’m sure I’ll change my mind many of times (since I already have about 5 times now) But the changes are all for the better and the RIGHT WAY, which is always important if you want reliability.
So I opted for all motor, which I like better imo. I was thinking about the LS/VTEC thing, but reliability, smog, legality, moola…just wasnt’ worth it. And I don’t really like vtec, since the power is not there all the time…this will be a daily driven, traffic ridden, car so I need the power below 4K. Kinda like how I don’t like turbo and would opt for a supercharger instead.
As for the setup:
JE 10.5 pistons, b20b block, shotpeened rods, crower 403 cams, crower valves and retainers, p&p b18 LS head, ITR block girdle, ITR flywheel, ARP rod and head bolts, b18b IM, oil relocator/cooler and all the other stuff already on the car such as Accel ignition, Nuespeed wires, DC intake and header, 2.25 exhaust stainless stell piping, AEM pulleys, and suspension stuff. The redline will eventually be increased to 8K. Max Hp I think will be made at 7600rpm and max torque at 5400rpm.
Here is my list .(b20List) and I have it on my website, link in sig
nice setup. only things id prob change is to up the c/r a little more. and maybe get the 404s. but since you got strict emissions the 403s are good enough. once everythings put together your gonna give them VTEC guys a good run.