I’m a professional installer and I’ve built more than my fair share of boxes. All this information is right on in my book, there’s just one more step that I’ve come to learn to be necessary. After you have the box built and caulked (only use silicone I caulk, It may cost more but latex doesn’t work worth s**t} you should coat the entire enterior with rubberized undercoating. Believe me even MDF is still porous enough for air to push through. I have proof.
Anyway, as for the slant question:
First make a template triangle out of scrap wood. this right triangle will be as high as you’re box will be with the bottom of the triangle being the difference in width between the top and bottom of you’re box. Then take that triangle and put it up against the table saw blade and tilt the blade until it’s flush with the triangle, this gives you youre angles for the top and bottom pieces. Next trace that triangle on to youre side pieces to make the same angle cut. Build the box without the angled side. Measure the length of the angled side and cut you’re side piece accordingly, setting the table saw angle to where it was before.
Originally posted by DOHCtor
[B]I’m a professional installer and I’ve built more than my fair share of boxes. All this information is right on in my book, there’s just one more step that I’ve come to learn to be necessary. After you have the box built and caulked (only use silicone I caulk, It may cost more but latex doesn’t work worth s**t} you should coat the entire enterior with rubberized undercoating. Believe me even MDF is still porous enough for air to push through. I have proof.
[/B]
I’m a little confused on your triangle thing? and what should i seal it with again on the outside? so i shold puta rubber coating on the entire inside? oh yea should i slant the back? or the front? wuld that matter, soudn quality wise?
Sorry, I meant interior of the box, you can get rubberized undercoating at any auto parts store, just let it sit for about a half hour before you put the sub in.
As for the triangle thing, think of it like this, Instead of using trigonometry to figure out the angles of you’re cuts, take a piece of wood, cut one side the same length as you’re box height and the other side as wide as the difference in the widths for top and bottom. Then make aline from one corner to the opposite and cut that triangle out.
You can use this triangle to set up your saw to make the cuts.
ah i see thanks doch, but for now i think i’ll stick with the rectangle box, but i’ll try to make a angle box after i’ve tried making a normal box first thanks though
Yep, Dohctor is right about the rubberized coating. I have heard some of the same things about the MDF being porous. The only reason I havent used it is that some home audio driver manuf. say that the wrong glue or chemical fumes can drgrade your speaker. I dont know if this is true, maybe theres a better way to seal them?
As far as the wedge goes, I have a prog that will figure the volume for wedge enclosures so let me know if u want it, I can zip it up and email it on over.
I would also suggest pluggin in the values for the sub and figuring the volume again as Idk how reliable JL’s box numbers are…some manf. really suck
Jim
This is what I came up with. It was fairly easy to make and is extremely light when compared to an actual solid MDF box. It is a fiberglass shell underneath mounted to a MDF top. My only regret is porting the damn thing. I have stuffed spunges in it now for better sound.
