I just wondering, cause i’m gonna be making one soon, and wanted some advice, so people told me to use a type of strong wood that would flex and to make sure that the box was braced well? oh yea my current demensions for the box are 18 width, 9 depth, 11 height
Yes, I’ve made my own and some for friends. Use a 3/4" to 5/8" thick medium to high density fiberboard (MDF, HDF). When you are putting it together, use wood glue to seal between the boards and then use drywall screws every 2" to hold it together. After you have the entire box built, use clear silicon caulking to seal all of the seam inside the box. Give it a full 24 hours to dry and then carpet it, install the speaker…etc. Let me know if you have any other questions. Later.
hey dan, where can i find medium to high density fiberboard? and how did u do the carpet? oh yea how much does the fiberboard go for?
I get my fiberboard from PAAR Lumber here in Portland. It costs about $35-$40 for a 8x4’ sheet. I use 3M spray adhesive and a box cutter knife to get the carpet on the box. Here’s what my box and amp rack looked like when I was finished…
how much or how many sheets of 8x4 fiber, would i need to make a box that’s 18 width, 9 depth, and 11 height? this is my first time making a box, so i don’t want to end up buying so much would i don’t need at the end, is that 8x4 by feet? or inches? oh yea at the end how much did it end up costing u?
I think after materials and everything (electronics or speakers NOT included :p), I spent $150 and about 8 hours to get it together. But that includes my CD Changer “box”. I used 1 sheet of 8x4 ft. MDF. You won’t need any more than that. Best of luck.
cool so one sheet of 8x4 MDF or HDF aight thanks alot dan, but in the end was it worth making the box yourself? sound quality wise?
Considering the amount a shop would have charged me to do it ($600+), I’m very happy with the way my system sounds, and looks. Most people can’t believe that I built it myself. Very rewarding.
aight thanks alot dan, this is gonna be a fun project, oh yea is it 8x4 by feet? or inches?
its feet if it only takes one sheet 
Where do you get the box carpeting, and how much? I’ve found it a few places, but it seemed exorbitantly expensive, and most of them didn’t sell it in big enough sizes to cover most of a box with one piece. tia
If you wanna get really crazy, you can do what I did. I made mine out of fiberglass. The whole floor of my hatch is a box. It was actually fairly easy to make. Mine holds two 10" JL’s and it works pretty good. If you are ineterested, email me and I can give u some instructions. I just like having the subfloor because I can still put stuff in my hatch and I can have my rear strut brace.
I made that box with 1 sheet of 8x4’ MDF … custom ports (PVC pipe, glued in, routered), and painted SuperSonic Blue (Civic Si).
OMG!!! Me and a few friends tried to make a custom box for that very simple trunk in his CR-X (nothing as complicated as doing it in a g2 trunk), AND WE FUXING MESSED IT ALL UP. Dan, you did that masterpiece in a G2 trunk :argh: ?!?!?! I hate my life.
Dans box ownz me.
Stew 
Guys its not that hard. And first of all are u using the correct dimensions for your sub box? How did u arrive at those measurements? I only ask because U should really use a speaker building program so u can come up with the correct volume and port sizes for the speaker you are building. If you would like to post the T-S parameters in a reply I’d be happy to plug them in for you as well as port calculations. (T-S parameters can be found in the manual that came with your sub, its a bunch of numbers)
But as far as putting it together I’ve built a million speakers and MDF is just fine. You can get a 3/4" sheet at home depot for 21 bucks and they will cut it straight for 20cents a cut. Also grab 2 tubes of Liquid Nails for subfloors (dont ask its the strongest stuff they make) I assume youve got a caulk gun, if not grab one for the liquid nails. Like dan said, use drywall screws, predrill pilot holes so u dont split the mdf (its easy to do), use glue while assembling, weatherstripping around sub opening, caulk all joints after its together, drywall screws 2" or 1 5/8" every couple inches, spray adhesive for attaching vinyl or carpet. The biggest part is making sure your box is air tight. Even down to the bolt holes that keep your sub in place, or the binding post cup.
Well hope that helps,
Jim
Id be glad to answer any other ?'s I know way too much about this stuff.
oh and neil… ACHIVETHIS
you forgot the R he wont find it
ARCHIVETHIS
Always there to save my ass Oleg. I thought u were gonna comment on my box building ranting!
Jim
Originally posted by jwork101
[B]Guys its not that hard. And first of all are u using the correct dimensions for your sub box? How did u arrive at those measurements? I only ask because U should really use a speaker building program so u can come up with the correct volume and port sizes for the speaker you are building. If you would like to post the T-S parameters in a reply I’d be happy to plug them in for you as well as port calculations. (T-S parameters can be found in the manual that came with your sub, its a bunch of numbers)
But as far as putting it together I’ve built a million speakers and MDF is just fine. You can get a 3/4" sheet at home depot for 21 bucks and they will cut it straight for 20cents a cut. Also grab 2 tubes of Liquid Nails for subfloors (dont ask its the strongest stuff they make) I assume youve got a caulk gun, if not grab one for the liquid nails. Like dan said, use drywall screws, predrill pilot holes so u dont split the mdf (its easy to do), use glue while assembling, weatherstripping around sub opening, caulk all joints after its together, drywall screws 2" or 1 5/8" every couple inches, spray adhesive for attaching vinyl or carpet. The biggest part is making sure your box is air tight. Even down to the bolt holes that keep your sub in place, or the binding post cup.
Well hope that helps,
Jim
Id be glad to answer any other ?'s I know way too much about this stuff.
oh and neil… ACHIVETHIS [/B]
GREAT THANK U!!! i still have a question, my demensions are 18 width, 11 height, 9 depth, i got hte demensions from a pdf form off jl audio for that specific sub. that said those demensions for a sealed box, but i have a question, those demensions were meant for a square box i believe, but i want the back to be slighty slanted so that it tilts corectly against the back of my sit, but if i tilt it the depth for the bottom of the board will be the same, but the top board will be off, be shorter then 9 deep,is that o.k.? since top and bottom won’t be 9 anymore, just the bottom? since it’s gonna slant on the top it won’t be 8 anymore, what should i do?
if i do slant the back, would it sound better if i slanted teh front a bit too? or just leave it flat also? yea i meant about teh depth if i slant the back the top and bottom depth won’t be 9 anymore, would it back o.k. if the top depth be a little short? or would that mess up the demensions that jl said to use?
hey Arman
I got cut off, but here is the MTX website http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/products/enclosures/