Is that really how you justify buying parts? Does a race team use them? :laugh:
Why don’t racers use OBX? Likely because OBX isn’t PAYING THEM TO. Any endorsed part on a car is used solely because the manufacturer PAYS them (and lots if the person is “big”)… it is the reason why most NASCAR teams use Mobil 1… they get PAID to use it (at least claim they use it) and to put that sticker on the side of their cars… not because Mobil 1 is any better than any other synthetic… :laugh:
Anyway… back to the question at hand…
If you buy an OBX exhaust… the fit won’t be perfect… you will have to fix a few minor issues… and you may even develope some rust (the OBXs I have seen have not)… but when it comes right down to it, you will have $400 in your pocket over the other brands and odds are you will either buy a new car or change your mind on what exhaust you wanted any way, so you are ahead by $400.
well back in 96 i paid 500 on sale for a greddy cat back, about year later, it got louder and louder and i had to change the muff anyway. but i weld so, call me rice cuz i buy them for the piping. but i never get tickets. they dyno the same when im done. and my car is nice and quite. but i buy the ebay with the factory muff style. the canasters are to loud for my taste. manderal bends and resonator and flanges cost more then buying it for the piping. im running a world sport muff right now on 2.5 inch mand bent piping with a non louverd resonater and its deep, quiet and not a fart can sound. works really great. ive had my WS muff about 2 years now, no rust and its still quiet. so i cant complain
It came in the mail yesterday. Unlike some of the other eBay exhausts, it is 2.5" all the way through at all joints. It would have cost me more to have my Thermal exhaust welded again than to buy this one. I’ll post up pics installed this weekend.
It came in the mail yesterday. Unlike some of the other eBay exhausts, it is 2.5" all the way through at all joints. It would have cost me more to have my Thermal exhaust welded again than to buy this one. I’ll post up pics installed this weekend.[/QUOTE]
how does the real one look in person?
i really wanna know the fitment and sound, 129 is cheap!!
I have one of the 129.00 ebay ones…the quality was very good for the price. I installed it with a matching header, stock cat, and the catback. It has a very mellow tone and is not overly loud at all. Fit was great…like was said before you have to trim alittle off the rear hanger and i had to remove the heat shields to eliminate rattling. For 129 bucks you cannot beat that exhaust.
The fitment so far on mine sucks… all of the hangers are in the wrong locations (not that I’m really surprised). I’ll post all of the pics up tomorrow if I can finish modifying it to fit. The piping looks fine so far and might even clear my short shifter… if only the hangers were correct… wish I had a tig welder.
I got it on and it sounds good - fairly quiet. I’ve got to take some better pics in the sunlight (don’t think mine tonight turned out too well). Mine is a 1992 with a DC Sports header and stock cat, so there shouldn’t have been any problems bolting it on. There are obvious flaws in the placement of the exhaust hangers on the exhaust - none were where they should have been. In order to mount the exhaust, you either need a tig welder to move all of the hangers on the exhaust to the correct locations or maybe just move the ones on the body or just get creative like I did (it takes pictures to explain what I did). So, decent exhaust, but not bolt on.
cool. how did they line up, i heard 90 91 catback is different then 92 93, they might use a 90-91 to make the catback, if all the hangers have same gap with the hangers on the car, maybe its a bolt on to my 90 -91.
The length of the exhaust is exactly the same as my old exhaust. So, the piping as far as I can tell is fine. The hangers are just all wrong - either a design flaw or just really poor quality control. The ones on the mid pipe were about 2 inches too far to the front of the car and the ones on the rear were off in that direction (one a lot more than the other) as well as making the muffler sit tight against the body of the car.
If only it was that easy. Used a couple of bolts and a cutoff wheel and a few hose clamps for the mid section. Then went and bought an oxygen propylene torch and bent the rear hangers (a lot of bending).
Like I said, you really need a welder to do it right.
Didn’t have time to get pics today before it was dark again. I’ll get good ones tomorrow.
