suup g2 i wanted to know if our integras are free spinning engines or interference engines.
reason im asking is because i recently jumped a tooth on the cam gear soo my car is lacking power and uses gas fast… i heard that if its a interference engine basically the valve is bent or broken up inside the cylinder…but if its a free spinning engine the piston doesnt hit the valve at alll… let me know thanks bcz i cant find it on the net
The b18a is an interference engine, however typically skipping a tooth or two doesn’t cause any valve to piston contact. Correct the problem w/ your mechanical timing and then you can do a leakdown test to check for bent valves.
Your tensioner is probably good, HOWEVER the install procedure is VERY important for proper belt tension:
From the honda service manual:
Set No. 1 piston at TDC
Rotate crankshaft 5-6 full rotations counter-clockwise
Set No. 1 piston at TDC
Loosen adjusting bolt (tensioner) 1/2 turn only
rotate crank pulley counter clockwise 3-teeth on the camshaft pulley (edit: rotate the crankpulley counterclockwise about 4-5 degrees after TDC, your camshaft sprockets should rotate by 3 teeth counterclockwise)
tighten adjusting bolt to 54nM (40ft-lbs)
Perform another rotation and check for tautness on the belt (the belt should not look like it's jumping when the cams release tension, not in the manual but good practise)
[QUOTE=wise_old_dragon;2197592]Your tensioner is probably good, HOWEVER the install procedure is VERY important for proper belt tension:
*rotate crank pulley counter clockwise 3-teeth on the camshaft pulley[/quote]
Eh? Elaborate please… I’m confoosed. Rotate the crank counter clockwise three teeth? What does the camshaft have to do with it? The wording threw me off.
I think what he means is rotate the engine counter clockwise so the belt moves three teeth using the crank pulley to rotate the engine. Basically you need to take up any slack in the belt while you tighten the tensioner. It should also be noted that usually as you rotate the motor over you need to keep holding the ratchet so the belt stays tight while you tighten the tensioner bolt. Don’t just move rotate the engine a bit and then let go of the crank pulley. Also, to the OP, since the belt jumped make sure you replace the belt. If it jumped it is likely worn out. While you have everything apart it is common practice to replace the water pump and tensioner as well.
also, though it may be obvious, be sure to slip the belt on starting from the exhaust cam first, to the crank, leaving the belt slack on the tensioner side of the crank
90da9teg already explained it, but basically after the 5-6 rotations, slightly loosen the tensioner bolt. Then, rotate the crankshaft an extra 4-5degrees and hold it there while you tighten the tensioner bolt (the camshafts will rotate by 3 teeth). The belt should be taute from the camshaft sprocket to the crankpulley and you will feel clockwise resistance from your ratchet/wrench. While HOLDING the crank in that position (4-5 degrees after TDC), torque the tensioner to spec.
The helm’s and honda service manual’s may explain this part in better detail. I think the honda service manual has a picture that I may scan later.
still havent fixed it yett bcz i need money for a tensioner im tryna buy oem even tho gates makes a tensioner and there a pretty good company i rather go with oem just in case…