ARP head studs vs. OEM head bolts

I’m rebiulding a b18C1 right now. I know at first glance most people will say ARP costs more so it has to be better, but I want to hear from people with experience with the arp head studs. How do they hold up (or down as the case may be). I came across a post on one of the boards from a guy who said he had problems with the head studs loosening. Is this common, or a problem on his part? Is there anything else I need to consider? Your input is appreciated.

I’ve used them…

and fawking hated them. Made removing the head/intake manifold combo on my b18c1 a major PITA. The whole assembly has to come straight up, and teh head studs tend to “hang” on head when coming up. Not to mention bad they are to install. YOu have to tighten them down as far as you can one night, then let the air bleed out and finish the next day.
I was using them on a sleeved b18c1 that was designed as a boost motor. I would ONLY use them if you are planning on running large amounts of boost +15psi. Stock headbolts are perfectly adequate for a N/A setup. I am using stock honda head bolts at 12.1:1 CR. HTH

thanks alot battlecat, that’s the kind of stuff I need to know. Hey, do I need to get new bolts each time I take the head off? I’m not planning on taking the head off more than once, but I’m just wondering.

hey battlecat, what engine setup are you running? iis it ls/vtec? i ask b/c i am about to throw my ls/vtec in my car, i’m afraid the compression is going to be too high. it’s like 12:1 - ish i think. i checked out the c speed racing calculator, it came up a little higher than i had planned. do you have any problems running on pump gas? what kind of engine managment are ya using?


b18a block, 95 gsr head, CTR pistons, factory head gasket,nothing milled from head or block


You are supposed to only use honda head bolts once. They stretch when torqued, so re-using them give incorrect torque readings. I know many ppl who do re-use them, and have not had any issues with them at all. ARP head studs are also reusable as well.

I am currently running a B18C1 with ITR crank, ITR rods, OS CTR pistons, and a PR3 head. My CR is 12.1:1. This is run on a stock honda P72 ecu for now (hondata stage 4 soon) and 280cc H22a injectors. Mine runs lean right now, I Need to step up to larger injectors and 1 more heat range colder plugs. It does not ping at all, just runs a bit lean for my taste.

Also, I get 12.55:1ish CR with your setup, assuming you are using stock bore CTR, and 12.62:1 using OS CTR’s. That is too high IMO, but you can tune it to run fine (on a dyno, with a lamba or wideband o2). Just make sure you have enough fuel, and a high enough quality of fuel and you could be ok.

Hmmm, Looks like I won’t buy my ARP head bolts anymore! This is good info to know. I know I didn’t really need the ARP bolts in the first place since I’m going all n/a motor, but was going to add for added reassurance. I won’t now. Honda makes some good quality ish as is, so I don’t think I’ll have a prob.

I did buy the ARP rod bolts though to put in my oem shotpeened rods, but they have to be machined in (pressed in), and I don’t know if I want to enlarge the holes of the rods since they are factory. Should I just use them or stick with stock? I could possibly raise redline much farther in the future, but I’m afraid that when I put the block girdle on the bottom end of the engine, that the arp rod bolts will hit since they are almost 1/4 inch longer than stock and much thicker too.

Any suggestions? I’m going to be keeping the car so I want to build this engine like a rock, but at the same time, when the engine goes in the engine bay I don’t ever want to take it out again (besides maybe a clutch install which it will still stay in. Shanks